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全部资讯   / 凹凸型丝织物设计-利用原料性能

凹凸型丝织物设计-利用原料性能

2014-06-30 16:33:33

<section data-role="paragraph" class="_135editor" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  这种方法主要是利用回缩性能较大的原料(锦纶、氯纶等)与回缩性能较小的原料(厂丝、粘胶纤维等)之间性能的差异,构成双层组织后而达到凹凸型的效应,通常表层经纬采用回缩性能较小(即弹性较小)的原料,里层采用回缩性能较大的原料,出于表、里两层具有不同的回缩性能,并依靠其弹性,促使表层花纹部分袋组织突起。由于地纹接结后组织点比较紧密,因此回缩极小而平坦、挺整,但如果利用聚酌纤维制成各种凹凸类型的织物时,必须经过热处理,才能使纤维收缩定形,产生凹凸的效果。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  在运用同一种原料或回缩性能差异较小的原料构成凹凸织物时,可将里层经纬原料加以强捻处理,成品通过漂练或出水整理后,里层经纬显著收缩并促使表层突起。在利用同一方法设计凹凸织物时,必须注意如下事项:首先纹样布局要求匀整,花纹的大小和虚实疏密等处理都必须适当,不能有显著的差异,以免因绸面收缩程度不平衡,造成“呼吸”和门幅不齐等现象。其次,凸部花纹面积不宜过大,花纹造型需有参差,应尽量避免过松过紧的纹样(如正方形),防止花纹不够饱满和花纹皱瘪变形。再次,边经必须与内经同样的绉线原料和相同的组织编制,防止因边组织缩率大于成品缩率而产生紧边,也勿使边组织小于成品缩率而产牛“荷叶边”。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  采用绉线制成的凹凸绸具有轻松、爽适、柔软的特点;其缺点是工艺过程比较复杂,织物不能稳固的定形。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  </p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" id="autoparagraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-family: 微软雅黑, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section>

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