<div style="text-align: left;"><section data-role="paragraph" class="_135editor" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　绉类织物是丝织物中的一个大类，在丝织物中占了相当大的比重。如众所周知的乔其绉、双绉、碧绉，还有厚重型的重磅真丝绉等真丝织物高级外套面料等，历年来都是我国丝织品的主要出门品种。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　绉类织物表面呈现出无规律性的错综排列的轻微凹凸的微小颗粒，形成起绉小花纹的效应，光泽柔和而静雅，手感柔软而富有弹性，其服用性能也相当优异，由于织物表面细微凹门，使织物与人体的接触面减少，因而具有良好的透气性，轻薄型的绉织物一般用来制作夏季衣、裙面料以及头巾装饰等，重磅型绉织物可作外衣面料。绉织物起绉效应的原理如下：</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　1．利用强捻的绉线构成绉织物</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　丝线通过强捻以后，必然要产生始缩，捻缩使经纬交织点发生不规律的轻微位移，形成绉效应，如乔其绉、双绉、顺纤织以及斜纹约和绉缎品种，都是用经纬强捻或经为无捻纬为强捻的经纬交织以后经棺炼工程，使约线收缩卷曲，产牛绉效府。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　2．利用绉组织构成绉织物</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　绉组织是利用经纬长短参差不齐的浮长交错排列，结构轻松的长浮组织点，在结构较紧的短浮组织点间微微凸起，形成细微颗粒状，而使织物产生起绉效应。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　3.利用整理技术形成绉效应</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　如轧纹处理成凹凸，烧碱处理形成泡泡绉。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　绉类丝织物种类很多，主要的绉类品种是：</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　(1)双绉：经过无捻或弱捻，纬丝用两根或多报单丝并合后强捻，分左有捻向，用两根左捻、两根右捻交替织入，织物组织为平纹，当织物经精练以后，由于丝线左右扭转力的相互作用，使绸面具有隐约而细微均匀的绉纹，织物光泽柔和、绸面美观大方，抗皱性能良好，手感柔软，轻簿凉爽。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　(2)顺纡绉：经丝无捻，纬丝一顺向强捻采用平纹组织或变化组织，精练后纬丝产生一个方向的扭转力，从而使织物皱折转大，绉纹呈纵向柳条形，顺纡织物风格大方、粗犷豪放，适育做妇女夏季衬衣面料。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（3）乔其绉：经、纬向均采用强捻的丝线，且经纬均采用两种不同捻向的丝线2：2间隔排刂，采用平纹组织。乔其绉以前通常叫乔其纱，其织物的紧度较小，呈半透明状，织物轻薄，适宜装饰用料和衬衣、裙料。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（4）碧绉：经丝不加捻，纬丝用碧绉线型，采用平纹组织，绸面呈细小的水浪形绉纹，这是由丝线捻度皱缩和螺旋线型皱缩混合产生的，有素碧绉和格子碧绉。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（5）绉缎：经丝不加捻，纬丝采用双绉线型，即用强捻线两左两右间隔排列，采用缎纹组织，只物的正面为纬面缎纹，由于采用绉线，所以产生绉效应，而织物的反面为经面缎纹，由经向无念平丝呈光亮的缎纹效应，有素绉缎和花绉缎，采用正反组织。在纬面缎纹地上起经面缎纹花，纹对比强烈，花纹设计比较自由，因此，颇受消费者的欢迎。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（6）双层绉：双层绉的出现是人们对服装面料提出的新的要求，主要目的是增加织物的质量和厚度，以适应做套装面料。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　双层绉质地疏松、柔软、丰厚、弹性良好、富有型感。双层绉两面所采用的组织和经纬原料以相同的为多，但也有不同，经纬可采用绉线，也可以采用平线和绉线交织，表里层的接结方式以自身接结和附加接结为主，但接结组织不宜过紧，接结经的张力也不宜太大。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" id="autoparagraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-family: 微软雅黑, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section> <p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height:0.0500pt;mso-line-height-rule:exactly;"><span style="mso-spacerun:'yes';font-family:Calibri;font-size:10.5000pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p></div>