<div style="text-align: left;"><span style="mso-spacerun:'yes';font-family:Calibri;font-size:10.5000pt;"><br clear="all" style="page-break-before:auto;mso-break-type:section-break"></span> <p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height:0.0500pt;mso-line-height-rule:exactly;"><span style="mso-spacerun:'yes';font-family:Calibri;font-size:10.5000pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div style="text-align: left;"><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　1.对织物的光泽和纹路清晰度的影响</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　根据光的反别原理，当斜纹倾斜方向与纱线捻向相垂直时，纹路清晰。所以，在右斜纹时，经纱宜采用S捻，纬纱用Z捻。在左斜纹时，经纱宜采用Z捻，纬纱S捻。若经纬纱采用同捻向，则应根据占优势的捻向而定。如2/1单面华达呢，应使经纱捻向与斜纹方向相垂直。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　2．对织物手感的影响</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　经纱为Z捻，纬纱为S捻时，织物表面经纬纱排列方向相同，而在交织处纤维排列方向相反，因此经纬纱之间缠合性较差，容易滑移。这种织物组织点突出，光泽较佳，手感比较厚实，吸色也较好。反之，当经纬纱均采用Z捻时，则在织物表面上纤维排列方向相反，而在经纬交织处排列方向一致，因此经纬纱间不易滑移，织物较紧密，但手感较硬。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　一般单纱采用Z捻，合股时采用S捻。当织物需要有隐格、隐条效应时，需用Z捻向合股纱。若单纱和股线采用同向捻（即Z／Z），织物手感挺爽，但当用量较多（如超过1／2）时，手感粗糙，而且光泽差。所以中厚型产品多采用异向捻，薄型绉织物要求起绉效果明显，一般采用一部分单纱和股线同向强捻进行织造。羊毛与化纤长丝合捻的夹丝纱线，采用不同的加捻方式会出现不同的外观效应。例如：17.5tex（57公支）Z捻640捻／m的精纺毛纱与159tex（6.3公支）粘胶丝合捻时采用二并二捻的方法，即第一次将单根毛纱与粘胶丝并合，加S捻325捻／m，第二次将已合捻的夹丝线再与单根毛纱并合，加S捻905捻／m。这种夹丝线用作单面花呢经纱，织物呢面丝点分布较活泼，但工艺繁杂，如果采用两根毛纱与一根长丝一次并合的工艺，则织物呢面丝点分布稍显呆板，但工艺简单。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　3．对缩绒起毛的影响</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　经纬纱捻向不相同，其接触处容易相互交错缠结，易于缩绒。如果合股线的单纱与股线捻向相同，则捻度大，缩绒性差；如捻向相反，捻度小，易于缩绒。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　经纬纱的捻向也影响起毛的效果。织物的经纬纱捻向不同，起毛时经纬纱纤维的方向与刺果运动通过织物表面的纤维的方向是相同的，则起出的毛平顺而均匀。经纬纱捻向相同的织物，起出的毛绒，厚而不平顺，但较为丰满。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" id="autoparagraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-family: 微软雅黑, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section></div>