登录

立即登录

去注册

忘记密码?

验证码登录

点击获取验证码

立即登录

去注册

注册

点击获取验证码

立即注册

找回密码

点击获取验证码

确定

全部资讯

全部资讯   / 纱线的捻度对纺织工艺及织物风格的影响

纱线的捻度对纺织工艺及织物风格的影响

2014-05-14 11:39:39

<div style="text-align: left;"><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  纱线单位长度内的捻回数,称为捻度。纱线捻度对织物的强力、手感、弹性、耐磨性、起毛起球性及光泽等品质都有显著的影响。一般设计纱线捻度需掌握以下原则:</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  (1)纯毛纱大于混纺纱的捻度,混纺纱大于化纤纱的捻度。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  (2)短纤维纱大于长纤维纱线捻度。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  (3)低特纱大于高特纱的捻度。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  (4)品质差且短毛含量高的纱线大于短毛含量低且品质好的纱线捻度。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  (5)经纱大于纬纱的捻度。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  (6)再生毛、染色毛纱线捻度较大;</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  (7)点子纱比混纺纱捻度大。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  单纱和股线度的配合对织物性能有显者影响,当股线度小于单说码,股线捻度和单纱捻度接近时,强力好,较好织造,织物弹性好,挺爽;当股线捻度接近单纱捻度的1.5倍时,织物显硬挺。精纺毛织物中,一般均采用单纱捻度小于股线捻度织造,纱的结构内松外紧,织纹清晰。设计纱线捻度时一般考虑以下几方面的因素:</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  (1)首先应考虑纺纱能否顺利进行,加捻工艺应使单纱具有一定的强力,减少断头率。经纱在织造过程中,反复承受较大张力和摩擦,应采用较高的捻度。纬纱所受张力小,较多地显露于织物表面,因此对织物表面、手感影响大,宜采用较低捻度。而单纬织物,纬纱捻度宜大些。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  (2)纤维的长度、线密度和强力较好时,可选用较小的捻度,一般纯毛纱比混纺纱捻度稍大。鉴于国毛线密度偏细,长度偏短,为稳定断头率,可采用较大捻度。但有时为避免国毛产品的手感粗糙,也采用较小捻度。涤纶和腈纶纤维,因初始模量大,刚性好,可采用较小捻系数。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  (3)给纱线加捻可缩小纱线直径,但捻度并不能改变纱线内纤维的平均根数,也不能改变伴变硬改变纯线的溶绒性,所以原料相同的紧捻纱与松捻纱之间的缩绒力有一定差异,捻度越小,越有利于缩绒。一般平纹组织的差异较小,斜纹组织的差异较大。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  (4)经纬纱的捻度关系对缩绒有影响。如经纬纱捻度接近,则增加了缩绒时的阻力。如经韦纱捻度不同,可增进收缩量。如果延长缩绒时间,会促使紧捻纱逐渐展开它的缩绒力,但不能收变织物原有的坚硬手感。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  (5)薄爽织物,如具有较大浮长线的单面花呢,要求坚挺而贡子饱满的华达呢,捻度宜大。需经树脂整理的化纤织物,捻度较小。花线合股线比同色合股线捻度高30%左右,制成织物的呢面显得细洁。股线捻系数小的松捻线比普通纱线的捻度高30%左右,制成织勿的呢面显得细洁。粗纺纹面织物的捻度大于起毛和缩绒织物,仿麻织物又大于纹面织勿的捻度。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  </p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" id="autoparagraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-family: 微软雅黑, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section> <p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height:0.0500pt;mso-line-height-rule:exactly;"><span style="mso-spacerun:'yes';font-family:Calibri;font-size:10.5000pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p></div>

上一篇 下一篇