<p><br></p><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" style="font-size: medium; max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　缩水率、缩率、门幅收缩率，三个在染整场景经常遇到的概念，里面都有一个“缩”字，致使有些业内朋友容易将三者混淆。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　三者的内涵并不一样，其产生的机理和控制方法也完全不一样。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　以梭织纤维素纤维织物为例：</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　缩水率是指织物经洗涤后尺寸发生了变化，其产生的机理有两个，如下图，纤维素纤维织物的缩水率的机理有三个层面的原因，分别是纤维、纱线、织物。不同纤维素织物，缩水率的形成主因并不完全一致。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　<img src="https://bexp.135editor.com/files/users/390/3900717/202306/x73c7cJa_G4vt.png?auth_key=1687103999-0-0-96be771247be82138ff667a751f41c03" _src="https://bexp.135editor.com/files/users/390/3900717/202306/x73c7cJa_G4vt.png?auth_key=1687103999-0-0-96be771247be82138ff667a751f41c03" alt="image.png" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; vertical-align: inherit; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important; height: auto !important;"><img src="https://bexp.135editor.com/files/users/390/3900717/202306/RJyhdZtn_YXMs.png?auth_key=1687103999-0-0-ef0adf97485572d9f94c3c62cb53b0a1" _src="https://bexp.135editor.com/files/users/390/3900717/202306/RJyhdZtn_YXMs.png?auth_key=1687103999-0-0-ef0adf97485572d9f94c3c62cb53b0a1" alt="image.png" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; vertical-align: inherit; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important; height: auto !important;"></span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　一个原因是纤维的湿模量过小，导致纤维/纱线在有张力染整过程中容易被拉伸拉长，经水洗烘干后这种拉伸伸长被回复而产生了尺寸变化，这个是粘胶织物有比较大的缩水率其中一个主因，但不是棉麻等湿模量比较大的纤维织物的主因。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　棉麻织物缩水产生的原因是由于存在交织结构以及纱线本身是圆柱体结构，纱线在织物中并不完全是直线，而是有一定弯曲的曲线，我们把这个弯曲程度称为织缩，而把纱线在织物交织结构中所要延展的长度称为绕程。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　<img src="https://bexp.135editor.com/files/users/390/3900717/202306/Ut4tVIH7_wm4F.png?auth_key=1687103999-0-0-2caf6326a8d42c65b23a9f51fb231414" _src="https://bexp.135editor.com/files/users/390/3900717/202306/Ut4tVIH7_wm4F.png?auth_key=1687103999-0-0-2caf6326a8d42c65b23a9f51fb231414" alt="image.png" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; vertical-align: inherit; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important; height: auto !important;"></span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　棉麻人棉等纤维素纤维遇水后，都会发生溶胀，而且这个溶胀是各向异性的，即直径溶胀的大，长度方向伸长的少，纱线变粗了但并没有怎么变长，纱线变粗导致绕程要增大，但纱线又不能伸长多少，因此只有织缩变大纱线变得更弯曲才可以，从而导致了织物尺寸的变小。这个是棉麻织物缩水的最主要原因。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　控制缩水率也分两个层面，一个是选用湿模量大的纤维或通过交联提升纤维湿模量和弹性回复能力；另一个是染整厂的控制，通过预缩、超喂和丝光来分别控制棉麻类织物经纬向缩水率。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　另外，织物的尺寸稳定性和缩水率，有些业内朋友也经常将其混用，将其视为同一个概念，但严格的讲，两者是有明显不同的指向的。缩水率更多的是指向织物染整加工的控制结果，其关键在于内应力的消除和纱线绕程的预缩预留量，而尺寸稳定性更多的是指向织物材质即纤维本身的性能性状，其关键纤维指标是湿模量以及应力应变性能。举例来讲，粘胶织物可以通过多次超喂或松式烘干的方法，可以使其缩水率做到3%以下，但这个很低的缩水率并不表明它的尺寸稳定性就很好，它的尺寸稳定性性能依然很差，只有对它的进行化学交联后，它的尺寸稳定性才会有所改善。反过来说，一个尺寸稳定性很好的纤维织物，如果染整控制不当，也很有可能缩水率很大。比如粘胶衣服，缩水率3%的衣服尺寸稳定性可能并不好，它存在两种尺寸稳定性变化的情况，1，多次洗涤后缩水率持续变化；2，越穿越大。这些都是由其纤维湿模量和应力应变性能导致的，和染整无关。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　缩率是指梭织物经染整后，其经向总长度的变化，比如100米的坯布，在没有任何染整损耗的情况下，成品变成了95米，其缩率就是5%。这种长度变化会和纬密变化有一致性，即不需要测量布长，仅需要测试坯布和染色成品布纬密，就可以算到缩率：</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　缩率=（成品纬密-坯布纬密）/坯布纬密x100%。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　产生缩率的原因是染整加工的张力因素，全程经向有大张力尤其有丝光工序的染整工艺，布的缩率一般为负，即布有盈长（这个在密度稀疏亚麻布长车染整上会经常发生，有时盈长超过5%），全程松式如全机缸工艺则缩率为正，即布会变短，但棉麻为经的织物在机缸染整工艺下，其缩率一般在3%-9%间，极少超过10%。缩率产生的原因主要取决于染整工艺中的张力因素、，或者说，和织物的染整工艺路线选择有关。当然也会和织物的缩水率控制有关，如果一个纯棉长车染整的织物经向缩水率特别大，比如-8%，那么他的缩率很可能很小甚至为负，产生了盈长，但当我们通过预缩的方法将织物缩水率控制在3%左右时，他的缩率就要增大5%了。因此，我们通常讲的缩率，是指织物在可接受的缩水率下的缩率。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　另外，染厂还经常使用另一个和缩率有关的概念，缩损率，是指染整过程中缩率加损耗的总和，染整损耗包括缝头、取样打样、降等等生产过程中不能入库发货的数量，它的大小更多的是由生产管理水平决定的，是布真的发生了减少（其总纬纱条数肯定减少了）；而缩率是由染整工艺决定的，而且也仅是布的长度发生了变化，布本身并没有减少，其总纬纱条数还是守恒的。它们与制成率的关系如下：</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　制成率 = 1-缩损率 = 1-缩率-损耗率</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　门幅收缩率是指坯布门幅在染整过程中以及最终染整完成后成品布的门幅变化率。纯棉布一般坯布门幅63英寸，成品门幅58英寸。产生门幅的收缩的原因也有两个，一个是织物染整时经向张力，经向被拉直，而纬纱的要变得更弯曲来适配经向的拉直；另一个就是溶胀收缩或碱缩，碱缩只能表现在纱线和面料上，不会表现在纤维上，其原理是纤维溶胀的各向异性，直径溶胀很大，而长度基本不变，导致纱体要通过退捻回缩来消除这种溶胀张力。纤维横向溶胀率越大、捻度度越高、面料紧度越低，碱缩效果就越明显。紧度小，尤其经向稀疏，纬纱回缩阻力越小，回缩空间大，就更容易产生门幅收缩。比如低紧度的全棉 60sx60s 90x88细布，经丝光后门幅收缩就特别厉害，63英寸坯布成品门幅只能做52/53英寸，但高紧度的全棉60sx60s 140x120就没有这个问题。要减小无弹棉布门幅收缩率，关键在设计合理的织物紧度，以及控制染整过程的张力和溶胀程度，尤其是丝光浓度。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" id="autoparagraph" style="font-size: medium; max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-family: 微软雅黑, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section>