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2022-09-27 08:53:42
<section data-role="outer" class="article135" label="edit by 135editor"><section data-id="85816" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-size: 16px; line-height: 25.6px; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class="_135editor"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section label="Copyright © 2015 Yead All Rights Reserved." style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px auto; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); border-bottom: 2px solid rgb(236, 68, 68); clear: both; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 3px 10px 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; display: inline-block; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); border-top-left-radius: 3px; border-top-right-radius: 3px; height: 30px; background-color: rgb(236, 68, 68); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">六、丝光张力：</strong></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">棉经碱液渗透后，就张布机进行这道手续，此一步骤是丝光化过程中最困难的,无论棉的预处理多完美，也不管碱液在棉中渗透得多完全，都不能保证丝光化的效果必定会好，除非棉在张布机处理得当并且在拉幅机上均匀、彻底地洗净，才会得到令人满意的丝光化效果。换句话说，在张布机的操作及清洗过程不当,是造成丝光化效果不佳的最主要原因,当棉经丝光处理后,以张布机的状态半可塑性的，除非棉借着张布机的处理予以定型到正确的宽度且在离开张布机加以适当的洗净，否则会造成不佳的光泽、不良的收缩性，甚至导致染色的不均匀等现象。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(2, 30, 170); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">理论上，在张布机的操作只要做到让棉在清洗前，尽快拉到预定的宽度。</span>实际上的操作，则必须有所妥协，即将棉逐渐拉到所定的宽度。关于时间的长短或者棉多久才能拉到预定的宽度的确实资料，无法在此提供。但它们与张布机长度及随后的清洗过程有关，前面所做的妥协也是为了令人不满意的清洗量所致。 布机上棉的宽度也是引人争议的问题。通常，大部分要求极佳光泽及收缩性的操作，棉应拉到原胚时的宽度，可能的话，再多拉１吋。假使棉拉宽后的宽度小于原胚的宽度时，其成品之光泽就会因此失去并且收缩性及稳定度都会降低。许多工厂对于将棉拉到原胚的宽度，棉有惧怕感，实际上，棉在拉宽后出现裂缝是由于棉太过干燥所致。这个缺点可以借由棉在离开碱液前，带走一些碱液来弥补。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">另一个有时会防碍工厂将棉拉宽的因素是，由于布绞（Clip）和机器上增加的张力，造成轧棉的作用，此一作用可以布铗上慢慢滴上碱液的润滑作用来抵消，亦有防止打结的作用。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">沿经纱给予多余的张力几乎是不需要的。一般而言，张布机（Tenter）应该与碱液压吸同速度移动，这样才能使棉不会沿经纱伸展并且也不会收缩。当我们要光泽很好的经纱时，张布机以较大于碱液压吸的速度来运作，如此即可使经纱做额外的伸展。通常张布和碱液压吸彼此速度的最大差翼量为 5 %。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><section data-id="85816" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-size: 16px; line-height: 25.6px; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class="_135editor"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section label="Copyright © 2015 Yead All Rights Reserved." style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px auto; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); border-bottom: 2px solid rgb(236, 68, 68); clear: both; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class=""><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 3px 10px 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; display: inline-block; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); border-top-left-radius: 3px; border-top-right-radius: 3px; height: 30px; background-color: rgb(236, 68, 68); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">七、清洗：</strong></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; color: rgb(2, 30, 170); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">当棉拉到适当宽度后，碱液就必须自棉中立即除去，如此才能获得最佳的效果</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">。一旦棉离开张布机，任何清洗或伸展，都不会影响织物内的丝光效果。我们知道常温下，棉在3.5 Be`碱液中会起皱，表示棉离开前，每一棉纤维中碱液的含量均应减至3.5 Be`以下，假如纤维中有大量的碱液，则棉离开张布机后会产生皱纹，同时也造成光泽及稳定性的不佳。</span></p><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class=""><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">有一种大家常犯的错误是，认为在洗张布机末端的物料时，所流下的洗下可以表示为纤维真正的含碱量；但是实际上，洗水可能只有5%的碱含量。一些对张布机的清洗效率的测量，可藉立即测得棉自张布机末端取下的宽度来换算。倘有大量的清洗，则棉自拉幅机布铗下来后，其宽度只有些微的减少。</span></section><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><section data-id="85816" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-size: 16px; line-height: 25.6px; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class="_135editor"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section label="Copyright © 2015 Yead All Rights Reserved." style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px auto; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); border-bottom: 2px solid rgb(236, 68, 68); clear: both; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 3px 10px 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; display: inline-block; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); border-top-left-radius: 3px; border-top-right-radius: 3px; height: 30px; background-color: rgb(236, 68, 68); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class=""><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">八、原坯的丝光化：</strong></section><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></span></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">当原坯（Greige）要进行丝光化时，<span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(2, 30, 170); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">有一点是很重要的，即在碱液压吸中加入强渗透剂</span>，使苛性钠进入棉纤维中并与棉纤维反应。当棉在丝光化前的预处理均已完成的时候，包括漂白，则棉可以在没有渗透剂作用下，即可达到饱和。市面上早期的丝光化渗透剂大部分是用来帮助碱液渗透到原胚中的，它们一般被设计在28~30 Be`范围内，是很有效的渗透剂，但是在低碱度时，它们常会丧失渗透力。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">丝光化渗透剂又有新的发展，丝光渗透剂在丝光化碱度范围内具有渗透剂之用途，然而在低碱度时，它们可以做为界面活性剂。使用丝光化渗透剂或可在较大碱度范围内作用的界面活性剂，即助剂都会影响张布机上的清洗工作。这种助剂可以帮助张布时棉中碱液的除去，也由于它们的界面活性剂效力，使棉在张布机上能有精练的作用。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><section data-id="85816" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-size: 16px; line-height: 25.6px; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class="_135editor"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section label="Copyright © 2015 Yead All Rights Reserved." style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px auto; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); border-bottom: 2px solid rgb(236, 68, 68); clear: both; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class=""><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 3px 10px 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; display: inline-block; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); border-top-left-radius: 3px; border-top-right-radius: 3px; height: 30px; background-color: rgb(236, 68, 68); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">九、涤棉混纺的丝光：</strong></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">现在我们要讨论丝光化有关棉的混纺的一些特殊问题。记得丝光化应用于混纺的目的是在改进棉以外的其它纤维之一些特性。聚酯和棉是两种完全不同性质的纤维，棉是对水敏感的纤维，聚酯则刚好相反，且只对高温下长时间浸于高浓度碱液才能影响。幸运地，最佳丝光化效果的条件，是在温度不高的强碱中作短时间的浸渍。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">因此，在丝光处理中，聚酯受损伤的危险性并不大，而且一般正常的棉的丝光化亦能满足棉与聚酯混纺的需求。反而，棉与聚酯混纺中的棉纤维却常不以吸收剂状熊存在，因为所有棉织物的预先精练及漂白的情况并不都完全一样。因此，在丝光化碱液中加入特殊渗透剂是有必要的。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-indent: 2em; caret-color: red;">由于棉与聚酯结合的丝光化并无特殊的改良，也因为这种混纺的丝光化的操作情形及成品几乎与棉的丝光化结果相似，所以我们不再重复而将继续探讨棉与粘胶嫘萦（Viscose）的混纺品。</span><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><section data-id="85816" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-size: 16px; line-height: 25.6px; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class="_135editor"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section label="Copyright © 2015 Yead All Rights Reserved." style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px auto; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); border-bottom: 2px solid rgb(236, 68, 68); clear: both; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class=""><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 3px 10px 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; display: inline-block; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); border-top-left-radius: 3px; border-top-right-radius: 3px; height: 30px; background-color: rgb(236, 68, 68); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">十、棉粘胶混纺的丝光：</strong></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">高湿度模数（High Wet Modulus）的粘胶嫘萦（Viscose Rayon）与棉的丝光化混纺工程，以及棉与普通的粘胶嫘萦的丝光化混纺品，给我们带来了一些特殊的问题。在丝光化过程中，我们希望改进棉的特性却不欲影响粘度，这个问题涉及理论与实际两方面，因为所有的粘胶嫘萦都会在苛性钠的浸渍中膨胀（Swelling）。当我们做出不易在碱液中膨胀的另一种高湿度模数的粘胶嫘萦时，它们却又会在某种情况下比棉更敏感。因此，除非是操作在适当的情况下，丝光化之后的混纺成品可能会有较硬、较脆、低抗张强度或羊毛纸化的效果等诸多缺点。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">幸运地，影响粘胶嫘萦的碱度与影响棉的碱度并不完全相同。长久以来，人们就知道碱液温度越低，棉的膨胀效果越好，然而对粘度而言，温度就有很大的影响力，并且某些情况下，嫘萦会溶解在苛性钠之中。 浸碱的时间因素对棉而言，也不同于粘胶嫘萦，对棉而言，大部分丝光的效果在浸碱之初就开始产生，且很快就达到平衡的膨胀状态，然而，对于粘胶嫘萦而言，碱液还要很长时间的作用才能达到平衡。因此，我们知道浸碱的时间因素，对棉来说不很重要，但对粘胶嫘萦就非常重要。最后，由于粘胶嫘萦的纤维会比棉更具有吸收作用，所以必须以某些方法促使碱液渗透到棉中。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">综合以上的讨论，我们知道在棉与粘胶嫘萦混纺品的丝光化中，必须考虑以下几点：</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; color: rgb(2, 30, 170); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">1. 碱液浓度。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; color: rgb(2, 30, 170); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">2. 碱液温度。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; color: rgb(2, 30, 170); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">3. 与碱液的接触作用。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; color: rgb(2, 30, 170); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">4. 碱液的渗透作用。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; color: rgb(2, 30, 170); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">5. 清洗的方法。</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">我们曾经建议，所有棉织物的丝光化在28~31 Be`的碱液浓度范围内进行，不但有增加光泽、促进对染料之亲和力、稳定性，还可以改善其它的性质。同时，这一范围对粘胶嫘萦的不良影响也是最少的。因此，假如在棉的光泽，对染料之亲和力和稳定度都是我们改进的目标，那么28~31 Be`的碱液浴确实可以在棉与粘胶嫘萦混纺的丝光化处理中，得到很好的效果。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">我们也曾推荐使用无冷却系统的丝光化设备，但碱液温度也不能高过110 ℉（43℃）以上。对棉／粘胶嫘萦混纺的丝光化，我们也给予同样的建议。然而，如果能将温度维持在110℉（43℃）以下几度的碱浴温度，就可以获得使嫘萦膨胀最少的好效果。由于棉纤维是反应主要发生的地方，且粘胶嫘萦的吸收作用很强，因此，提高碱液渗透到棉中的速率，以及尽快促使棉与碱液接触后反应的发生，是很重要的。利用一些新开发上市的助剂，就可以帮助我们达到这要求。 由于延长棉与碱液间接触的时间并无大碍，有时反而有益，因此，对于那些全棉织品，我们常会建议两次浸碱的操作，目的就和空气氧化的操作一样，都是希望给予充分的时间，使碱与棉的反应完全。但是，长时间的浸于碱液，会对粘胶嫘萦产生不良的影响，所以，在棉与粘胶嫘萦混纺品的丝光技术中，必须设想一个折衷的办法。空气氧化和浸碱浴两次，现在都不适用了，反而棉必须很快的通过碱液。通常只要将标准丝光化的机器予以简单的改装就可以了。使用特殊的助剂在丝光化碱液中，也可以使碱和棉之间的反应迅即产生。倘使不考虑光泽的改善，只要增进棉织物对染料的亲和力，在许多工厂中的操作方法是将碱液设计在16~22 Be`的范围内。不巧的是，与棉混纺的粘胶嫘萦最易产生不良影响的碱液浓度就是在这个范围附近。另方面，一些有经验的丝光技术者亦以同样的浓度范围操作，但将碱液温度保持在100℉附近,让棉快速地通过碱液，最后，特别慎重地进行清洗步骤。一般说来，我们还是觉得在28~31 Be`的范围内操作比在16~22 Be`这么敏感的范围内操作来得好些。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">对于混纺而言，倘使不能提供标准设备以外的特殊浸碱设备，那么就必须特别调当棉离开浸碱时，对于调整棉压吸的重要性。对全棉布疋，我们建议在棉中留一些碱液，做上张布机（Frame）后伸展时的润滑之用。理论上，棉与粘胶嫘萦的混纺亦可采用此一建议，如果没有适当的清洗设备，就不必考虑这一点了。扩布时的清洗如果不很理想，当棉离开碱液时，最好能施以最大的压吸。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">或者，在张布机进行伸展时，对棉施予最大张力的方式能和缓一些，此亦有所裨益。现场操作员必须牢记这些细节，以便使棉在扩布后可以拉到预定的宽度或更宽些，棉中留一些碱液，对伸展具润滑的作用。从另一个角度来看，碱必须自嫘萦的纤维中尽快洗出来，否则会造成易碎或抗张强度损失。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">棉或棉／聚酯布疋的丝光化中，浸碱之后理想的安排是，给予张布机操作较长的时间，这样可以让棉等慢慢地拉到所要的宽度，然后再在张布机以大量冷的或微温的清水进行清洗的工作。然而，对与粘胶嫘萦的混纺，就必须用相反的情形来处理。现在不但是要尽快将碱洗出来，并且就在张布机作业开始的同时，以大量极热的水来清洗。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">前面曾经提到过粘胶嫘萦对12~19 Be`的弱碱相当敏感，明白的说，就是棉／粘胶嫘萦的混纺品必须快速通过碱液，并用非常大量的水来清洗。其次是这些清洗水的含碱量要低。在全棉织物的丝光化中使用的逆流水洗设备中，清洗水中含有相当高的含碱量，这样的清洗水相当危险，特别是当它们不够热的时候。好在高温有助于碱液对嫘萦的影响。换句话说，嫘萦在18 ~ 30。ＴＷ冷或微温的碱液中比在同浓度，温度却高到180 ℉（82℃）以上的碱液更宜于膨胀。因此，以大量的洗水，使洗水中含碱量尽可能的低些，加以最好超过180 ℉（82℃ ）的水温，就能获致满意的效果。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">最后，在原来的碱浴中加入适当的丝光化助剂，也能促进从粘胶嫘萦中洗出碱的速率。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">最新的丝光化助剂兼具渗透剂和界面活性剂的效用，可在很宽的碱度范围内作用，对于棉／嫘萦混纺品的丝光化非常重要，因为纵使棉处于吸收状态中，也能促碱液很快地渗入棉中。同时，它们也会加速棉与碱的反应发生。另一重要的是，由于它们能在任何碱度中保持活性，所以即使在水洗时，也能作用。有了它们的存在，碱液可很快被除去，它们的高活性防止了碱液可能带来的伤害，也使洗水很快地分布到纤维的每一部分。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><section data-id="85816" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-size: 16px; line-height: 25.6px; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class="_135editor"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section label="Copyright © 2015 Yead All Rights Reserved." style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px auto; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); border-bottom: 2px solid rgb(236, 68, 68); clear: both; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 3px 10px 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; display: inline-block; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); border-top-left-radius: 3px; border-top-right-radius: 3px; height: 30px; background-color: rgb(236, 68, 68); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">十一、纱线的丝光：</strong></section><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></span></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">讨论丝光化就不能不探讨经纱的丝光化（Warp Mercerizing）。像许多我们在布疋丝光化中所讨论的项目，如碱浴浓度及清洗参数等，都可应用于经纱丝光化。因此我们只讨论那些不同的或其它特殊技术的范畴。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">问题就在于，为什么经纱的丝光化可以达到我们要求的最大效益，成为取代布疋丝光化的第一选择？答案有很多，多半是可以直接观察出来的。第一，纱线可用来编结。显然地，除非是有特殊情况，否则对织品进行完全的丝光化几乎是不可能的。再说，棉线常与丝、毛、人造丝及其它纤维编结，处理这种织品，也有技术上的困难。所以，为获致丝光化棉的成品的重大发展，纱线的丝光化是唯一合理的方法。同理，纤维也能适用上述的说法。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">纱线用来织布这样的答案，易使人疑惑。起初学得对织布的丝光化比纱线丝光化，速率较快也较经济，是获得良好效果最合理的途径。然而，纱线的丝光化不但在操作上有弹性，它也比以相同纱线织成布的丝光化具有在韧度等特性上的发展潜力。甚至于，借着对某种弱质纱线进行丝光化，还可以改善其韧性，增加编织时的效益。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">对将要编织成棉布的纱线予以丝光化，可以使成品具有多项特殊效果。例如，经纱可以丝光化后与其它纤维制成的纱线，编织成一织物。最后，关于最大韧性和最佳光泽两项，通常可由纱线取代成品的丝光化，即可获得最佳的结果。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">在对绞纱时的纱线进行丝光化，经纱处理过程有许多的优点。第一，它允许对于长达约6,000码以上的纱线进行连续的丝光化，并且能同时连续处理数千根纱线，相当经济。这种丝光化的方法，管理上最省事，因为纱线会自动的由纱架到球形经纱，连续地丝光化、连续地烘干，然后绕纱到筒管或只头筒管上。最后一点，经纱过程本身有一特点，即本过程中使用的化学品不会被消耗。另外，由于经纱处理允许用逆流式水洗，所以碱液可以回收。如果丝光化使用的纱线量大，最好能以经纱法来处理。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">由于早期经纱丝光化的从业者，将数根经纱捆成一单纱，并用线索或原纱线松松地扎成一束，取名为水丝带（Water Ribbon）。近来，一些业者舍弃了单纱系统，将纱以自由态进行丝光化，因而得到类似一连续的经纱薄布（Sheet）。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">在纱线丝光化过程中，纱线是否应在丝光化之前或后进行漂白，这个问题也和讨论布疋时的答案一样，不必考虑。所有以原胚纱线进行丝光化者，假使纱线已精练过或已浸润过，那么为了使纱线在丝光化得到很好的效果，我们必须使纱线控制在最好的情况下。湿式丝光化与乾式丝光化间的问题即是以此为中心的论题。第一，由于这是最早也最原始的制程中最早的技术，当然有支持它的人。当麦瑟氏（Mercer）首先发现丝光制程，他发现为了要使碱与棉反应，棉必须先要彻底浸透。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">麦瑟氏知道设法让碱自行去渗透，因此，早期的丝光技术者先将他们的纱线彻底煮练，再萃取多余的水份，然后予以丝光化处理。许多当今的经纱丝光技术者仍然坚持采用旧制程，但也有加以改良。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">碱液蒸发器中产生泡沫的惨痛经验，是一些早期较差的丝光化渗透剂及一些缺乏效益的渗透剂所造成的。它们使得许多业者拒绝使用乾式丝光化，就大部分的情况看来，湿式比乾式有更多的缺点，后者主要是在碱液中直接将纱线予以浸透。湿式丝光化优点很少，又都不重要，所以常被人们忽略了。它的小优点之一是浸碱前的预浸透过程，滤去一些纱线中的杂质，因此防止了碱液的污染。假使纱线长期暴露空气中，其所含的杂质就很可观了。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">丝光化前的釜练（Kiering）早已是过时且又昂贵的处理。它可能曾经是最早的浸透方法，事实上，它早已被业者遣弃了。今天，所谓湿式之于乾式的问题，即其一为碱液处理前在丝光化机器上进行预浸透的方式，相对于另一将纱线直接浸入添加有一特殊渗透剂的碱液的方式。如果浸透处理仅只是将纱线在热水中煮沸，不必添加任何化学品，则唯一的花费是蒸汽，但若要均匀完全的浸透，在没有一极长的作业线来煮沸纱线，几乎是无法达到目的的。在这个方法中，蒸汽的花费相当的大。然而，采用此法的业者，通常在碱液浸渍前的丝光化器械上加两个设备，藉湿润剂来确使纱线完全浸透。此法中，化学品的开销也很可观。此外，为了提供均匀恒定的浸透力，湿润槽（Wetting Bath）还要仔细的加以控制。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">浸透处理过程有一个缺点是，棉上有不溶性的腊质，其量会造成可观的累积并浮在碱液浴上。</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">这些腊也被部份的纱线带走，偶而即留下阻抗点（Resist Spot）或导致染色的不均匀。</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">然而，浸透处理最大的缺点还是在于纱线所带入碱液中可观的水，大约是70 ~ 140％的纱线重量，这即表示，假如丝光化必须在一固定之碱度下进行，譬如说29Be`吧，那么就必须常常添加高碱度的碱液到碱浴中，来弥补纱线所造成的稀释。</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">同时，浸入碱浴中的湿纱线，其与碱的作用，还必须待碱液置换出一部份水后，才能产生。</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">其所代表的意义即，湿式比乾式处理所用的浸渍槽要长些，速度也会慢些。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">在干式处理中所使用的新型丝光化渗透剂及助剂，可以带给我们许多令湿法更为逊色的优点。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">第一：<strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">渗透剂的使用不单使碱液很快地浸湿原胚的纱线，也具有加速丝光化反应的催化效果。</strong>渗透剂的加入，亦使碱液经水洗带入回收系统中不会产生泡沬。另外，借由纱线浸入添加了适当渗透剂的碱液浴中，能使丝光化立即开始作用，且使整条纱线同时作用。因此，湿式法中产生的不均匀浸透不可能发生在乾式法上。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">第二：由于纱线不会将水份带入碱浴中，碱液浴中的碱度较易控制。同时，由于碱液浴中碱度的维持只需少量添加高碱度碱液，换句话说，碱液浴之碱度变化量很小，因此在洗水回收系统中，低碱量的回收可以被简化，不必像湿式法的洗水必须蒸发出高浓度的碱液。在乾式法中，由于纱线未冲洗即携带了一些杂质到碱液中，这些杂质可以轻易地利用一般做湿式丝光化的工厂中，所设备的循环式过滤器来清除。就乾式法而言，其花费于丝光化用之良好助剂的开销，并不比湿法中所开销在湿润剂、蒸汽的供应及蒸发等的花费来得多。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">最后要提的是，纱线丝光化后成品的品质问题。干式丝光化的成品较能接受较多的张力，并且由于沿纱线的一特殊一端的长度上并无不同的含水量，故而与碱液的反应相当平均。所以，乾式法比湿式法更容易产生均匀染色的纱线，在此必须假设其它因素均保持不变。</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"> </span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">张力（Tension）是经纱丝光化中的基本因子（Factor）。</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">所以，对张力的控制也是相当重要的。</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">严格地说，[张力]这个名词在同业中被误用了。</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">张力是相关于作用在纱线上的一种力。</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">在经纱丝光化的机器上，我们只能借由伸张、收缩或透过碱液的膨胀能力来控制张力。</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">假使碱液保持恒定之碱度，则张力在丝光化机器中，会借着压啄滚筒（Squeeze Roll）在碱浴中的相对速度和压吸滚筒中的纱线滑溜（Slippage）现象来控制。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">因此，由丝光化的观点来看，我们比较关切由纱线进入丝光化碱液，直到纱线中部份的碱液被洗出的期间，加诸纱线上收缩或伸展。再由一般的品质和效益观点来看，我们关切的是煮练（Boiloff）、水洗、精练，甚至在烘干时的伸展或收缩。伸展和收缩在所有的这些步骤中，都会在各方面影响纱线的品质。 然而，我们先将讨论碱液中的伸展或收缩。对大部份纱线而言，将纱线保持在碱液处理期间和预先清洗之过程中的平整不收缩，是很简单也很普通的实际操作。在这些情况下，能发展出令人满意的光泽、收缩性和对染料之亲和力。然而，丝光化纱线的某些特殊性质，会随增加的伸展而有所改进，另些特性则随之减弱。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">假若纱线在水洗前不准收缩，那么在碱液处理期间，光泽直接与伸展有关连。即使高到 10℃的伸展度，前面所做的结论也是真确的。然而，在相同的情况下，伸展度的增加一定会导致对染料亲和力的减弱及伸缩性的降低。根据纱线的本质，在碱液处理期间，伸展度增加会增加纱线成品的切断强度（Breaking Strength）到某种程度，然后，再增加伸展度，反使切断强度减弱。对有标准丝光化的扭转度的纱线，其扭转范围由 20ｓ／ｚ到 90ｓ／ｚ，相当于碱液处理期间４％的伸展度，可以不必担心会造成纱线成品的伸展性的降低，可放心的运用。并且，光泽将会大量的增加，抗张强度也将有所改善。对单纱而言，任何多余的伸展却会带来危险，因此单纱最好应该避免收缩。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">对特殊的染色效果，譬如相当高的对染料之亲和力，纱线在碱液处理时可以允许至多 10％的收缩。假如在这个过程中，纱线被伸展或收缩，则纱线成品的总数会不等于当初所使用原胚纱线的总数。正常情况下，由于丝光化处理中纱线自然的失去一些胶质和杂质，所以纱线会有一到两个总数，但是造成纱线总数改变的主要原因，还是大的收缩或伸展所致。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">丝光化期间，任何伸展度或收缩度的差异，都会造成成品纱线染色之不均匀，虽然我们并不能看出它们在光泽和强度上所造成的任何变化。为了要控制这些张力，最重要的是要有确切的方法，来控制压吸滚筒进、出碱液时的速度，及离开最后清洗过程时的速度。这些压吸滚筒保持确实且平均的密度，使得经纱末端都能获得相同的效果是很要紧的。很明显的，在制造经纱时，经纱内张力之均匀性的控制也是很重要的。当纱线两端各加张力时，若有些微的差异，我们看不出光泽和强度上的明显不同，但却会察觉在对染料之亲和力上的不同。因此，为了获得经纱丝光化的最大均匀度，在纱线两端的张力或伸展度，一定要非常相近才行。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">假使在丝光化前使用煮练或浸透系统，同时在浸透处理时未对纱线施予张力，通常会造成 ２~４％的收缩度。如果想要最佳光泽，最好能使纱线在浸透时有一点收缩，再于碱液浸渍时，加以伸展来弥补这个损失。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">假如纱线在浸透时有些微松弛（Slack）的现象，会使渗透作用更趋完全，并且纱线亦会澈底的浸透。对于如何选择要在有张力时予以浸透，并在丝光化时保持相同的伸展度，或是要在湿润时允许一点的收缩，然后在碱液处理时予以伸展，全视现有之设备来决定。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">最后，在清洗过程中，当一定量的碱液被除去后，纱线会有增加其长度的趋向。此刻，最好能将正要离开洗液的滚筒加速，以便使纱线中留有最少量的松弛现象。太多的松弛现象会使纱线末端断裂，并于最后的绕纱过程中，带来一些困扰。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; text-indent: 2em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">经由以上所讨论有关于近年来，一些丝光化的最新发展来看，很明显的，良好的丝光化，仍是以麦瑟氏最先开发的制程中，所揭露的基本实务来做为合理应用的基础的。</strong></span></p></section>