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全部资讯   / 砂洗真丝面料的“灰伤"疵病是如何产生的?怎样防止与回修?

砂洗真丝面料的“灰伤"疵病是如何产生的?怎样防止与回修?

2017-09-29 23:58:00

<p><br></p><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  答 真丝绸经砂洗后,织物表面产生一层柔和的霜白绒毛(俗称灰度)。在丝绸砂洗加工中,又分轻、中、重砂洗。轻砂洗即要求绸面基本无灰度,保持原有外观,手感要求柔软滑爽。重砂洗要求绸面没有光亮、灰度大,绒感强,有良好的折皱回弹性;中砂洗的各项指标介于轻、重砂洗之间。真丝绸在染色、砂洗过程中,极易产生“灰伤”疵病,因其在加工中所处的状态和物理、化学作用不同,所产生的“灰伤”也各不相同。如在砂洗过程中理绸不及时,使匹绸缠结或绸量与水量控制不当而产生”条形灰伤“(俗称白条);用离心脱水机脱水时,刹车过急,造成脱水机与丝绸不同步产生的”块状灰伤“(俗称擦伤);拉缸染色时匹绸堵塞及绳状机染色时匹绸倒缠在椭圆形导辊上因拉力而产生的”灰伤“(俗称拉伤);加工过程中因匹绸与设备的摩擦,匹绸之间的摩擦而产生的各种”局部灰伤“。还有砂洗过重或经多次回修、色光或绳状染色温度过高、时间过长,而使绸面灰度过大,似重砂洗,也即形成”均匀的灰伤“。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  防止方法如下。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  ①在砂洗中,掌握好布量、水量;严格控制理绸时间(包括纯碱砂洗白坯时间及打热风、冷风时间)。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  ②脱水时不能采取急刹车。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  ③染色时要注意针对不同设备、不同绸坯,控制配绸量,浴比不能过小,以免造成坯绸被过分挤压、摩擦而产生灰伤;绳状染色浴比要控制得当,既要使坯绸在染色浴中自由移动,又不能缠结;拉缸染色的水流速度与绸坯速度要匹配,防止堵塞;对于不要求有灰度的丝绸用绳状染色机染色时,温度不能太高,否则易造成绸坯之间因沸腾而产生摩擦形成灰伤。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  回修方法有五种。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  ④砂洗法。利用砂洗原理,让绸面产生均匀绒毛,以掩盖”局部灰伤“。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  ②淡油涂揩法。同一块同色丝绸,蘸取少量橄榄油,放在手中揉搓,使橄榄油充分渗开,用此绸在发白的灰伤处朝一个方向涂揩,使灰伤处的绒毛上也粘上少量橄榄油,颜色变得稍深,看上去像没有产生灰伤一样。操作时要注意油量不可过多,否则会出现油斑。这种方法只能暂时消除灰伤,洗涤后,灰伤又会重现。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  ③染液涂抹法。用毛笔蘸取染色用染液,小心涂于灰伤处,使灰伤处的颜色与别处一致,再用熨斗烫平,使之高温固色。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  ④酶处理法。利用酶精练原理,即蛋白酶在适当温度、pH值下可分解蛋白质,将需回修的丝绸用酶处理。丝绸表面造成”均匀灰伤“的细小绒毛率先被分解,从而使灰度消除。但用2709碱性蛋白酶的作用较缓慢,并由于湿处理时间长会使丝绸颜色脱落,使色相改变。可用瑞士产的”Silk Wash 2000“快速蛋白酶,可在较短时间内消除灰度,效果好。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  ⑤烧毛法。利用烧毛原理,将丝绸表面形成的均匀灰伤的绒毛烧掉,消除灰度。但此法较难掌握,高温烧毛很易使丝绸变质、泛黄,因此要格外小心。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  以上①②③法适用于”局部灰伤“如”白条“、”擦伤“的回修,④⑤法适用于”均匀灰伤“的回修。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  </p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" id="autoparagraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-family: 微软雅黑, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section>

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