<section data-role="outer" class="article135" label="edit by 135editor"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 1.5em; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, &quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;, &quot;PingFang SC&quot;, &quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class=""><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">纺纱生产中经常遇到这样的问题：</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">纱线质量指标很好，但用户反映不好用。</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">如纱线强力很好，但用户投诉织造断头多；</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">十万米纱疵少，用户投诉布面质量不好；</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">纱线质量指标达到了USTER 2018公报 5% 水平，可用户反映布面疵点多；</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">甚至 纱线的各项质量指标都达到了用户的要求，但用户反映还是不好用。</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">这些纱线质量问题不仅给纺 纱企业和用户带来直接经济损失，更影响纺纱企业在行业内的口碑。</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">这就需要了解用户真正质量要求，根据提供的投诉样品，快速准确分析出原因，并制定预防措施，做好纱线风险把关，杜绝类似布面质量问题。</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">&nbsp;</span><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></section><section data-id="86269" data-color="#C00000" data-custom="#C00000" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, &quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;, &quot;PingFang SC&quot;, &quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class="_135editor"><section data-id="86269" data-color="#C00000" data-custom="#C00000" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class="_135editor"><section data-bgopacity="60%" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class="_135editor"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class="_135editor"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class="_135editor"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class=""><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(192, 0, 0); font-size: 18px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">1 纱线质量指标的内容及评价流程</strong></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(192, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">1. 1 纱线质量指标</span></strong></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">衡量纱线质量的主要指标：断裂强度、强力CV、断裂功、重量不匀率、重量偏差、条干 CV、细节、粗节、棉结、条干CVb、黑板棉结及杂质、十万米纱疵、毛羽 H 值、毛羽不匀率、捻度、捻度不匀率、异纤纱疵、DR 值等。但以上质量指标好并不 能保证纱线在下游用户那里就好用，还需关注如 下问题：细纱千锭时断头、络筒百万米切疵数、捻 接质量合格率及稳定性、倒筒一根到底率、筒纱成形合格率、纱线质量的一致性及稳定性、染色均匀性及一致性、原料选配 、细小纱疵的把控（A1、A2、B1、B2 等）、回潮率的控制等。&nbsp;</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(192, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">1. 2 纱线质量评价</span></strong></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">测试原纱物理指标，要求各项指标达到内控以上水平。用原纱织造针织单面布和双面布，然后对布面进行外观和物理指标的测试。外观质量的评价内容有布面的条干、残留疵点个数、清晰度和光洁度、染色性能以及织物的摩擦性能。内在质量的评价内容主要有撕破强力和顶破强力。染色性评价：将织好的布一半用于漂白，一半用于染色，并分别对布面进行质量评定。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 18px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(192, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">2 影响针织布面风格的因素及控制措施</span></strong></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">为了全面地了解针织用户对布面质量的要求，对其投诉的质量问题进行了汇总分析，主要布面质量问题有横档、黄白（色差）、棉结、异纤、针织破洞、各类疵点、条干不匀、毛羽、捻度不匀以及各 种原因断头等，用户投诉最多的质量问题为横档、 黄白（色差），占比在 35% 左右。因此，消除针织 布面横档疵点，控制纱疵及针织破洞等各类布面质量问题，提高纱线指标稳定性，是做好针织纱的 前提。&nbsp;</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(192, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">2. 1 针织布面阴影多</span></strong></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">赛络纺 C18. 2 tex 纱用于单面汗布时，用户反馈布面阴影多。我们通过组织技术攻关，虽然使布面阴影越来越少，但是用户仍然不认可布面质量，为此我们将原用的细纱 3. 5 mm 压力棒隔距块更换为 2. 8mm普通隔距块，调整前后的成纱质量和十万米纱疵。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; text-align: center; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="center"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">通过这个案例可知，质量指标是把控质量的 依据，但不是唯一依据，不同的用户对布面质量关 注的侧重点不同，要把布面质量和纱线指标联系 起来，关注用户要求和侧重点。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; color: rgb(192, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">2. 2 降低针织布面细小纱疵</span></strong></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">莫代尔、莱赛尔等新型纤维素纤维纯纺或混 纺纱线多数用于高端针织面料，对纱线细小纱疵 （A1、A2、B1、B2 等）的要求更高。某高端针织面 料用户反映赛络集聚纺莫代尔 14. 8 tex 针织纱布 面细小疵点多 ，对纱线质量和布面风格要求较 高。针对用户投诉问题，采取主要措施如下。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">（1）对莫代尔原料进行手检疵点检验，从样品的不同点上随机取样，要求测试结果折合为标准 一百克疵点含量小于4 mg，若超标应及时反馈。对莫代尔原料进行加水养生平衡，具体做法：把棉 包倾斜起来，侧面开口，加入2 kg 水，再封好养生 平衡 24 h~48 h 后上盘。减少回花用量，将回花 用量由 8% 调整为4%，减少回花、回条的产生量， 做好精细化管理。对梳棉落后机台重新平车维修 后查看棉网质量，对维修后的梳棉机做管纱试纺 试验，测试管纱的质量指标合格后开车。&nbsp;</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">（2）主要工艺调整：锡林刺辊线速比由2. 0 改 为 2. 4，上盖板单根高低差异由 0. 09 mm 调整为0. 04 mm ，根间最大差异由0. 16 mm调整为0. 06 mm；并条工序两道并条的并合数由 8 根改为 6 根；粗纱捻系数由 68 改为 78；细纱罗拉隔距 由 19 mm×35 mm 改为 20 mm×40 mm，后区牵伸由 1. 25 倍调整为 1. 18 倍。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; color: rgb(192, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">2. 4 针织布面质量问题产生原因汇总</span></strong></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">针织布面质量问题主要产生原因：原料选配不当，或回花使用不当等；配料接批和换批不当；先做先用没做好；混和均匀度和混纺比控制不当；没按批次和日期顺序发货；成纱百米重量偏差、极差与重量 CV 大；成纱条干 CV 及条干 CVb大；纱 线强力低，强力CV 大。捻度 CV 及极差大；成纱毛羽及毛羽 CV 大；长粗、长细节纱疵多；错号、混号、混批等。&nbsp;</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 18px; color: rgb(192, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">3 用户投诉牛仔织物布面质量的几个问题</span></strong></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">对机织牛仔织物的质量投诉主要有布面粗 经、布面风格差异、纱线断头、布面纱疵、错号、混 纤维、布面捻接显现率、条干及毛羽、幅宽宽度不 匀等。其中布面粗经、布面风格、纱线断头等布面 质量问题占比较大。&nbsp;</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(192, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">3. 1 布面粗经问题</span></strong></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">纱线密度超过正常经纱10%，长度一般在2m以上的纱造成布面粗经。经水洗后，粗经 在布面形成连续白条，危害极大，这类疵点修复困 难，主要产生于前纺并粗工序。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; color: rgb(192, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">3. 1. 1 布面松经问题</span></strong></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">赛络纺 C68. 6 tex 竹节纱，节粗 1. 5 倍，节长 3 cm~23 cm，节距 4 cm~12 cm。用户反馈该牛仔织物出现 200 m 长粗经问题，分析水洗牛仔织物，发现布面粗经为间断性显现，共 46 cm，异常处长27cm。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">从长度上分析，将问题处上下平行裁齐，正常纱拆了5段测量，长度均为 54. 5 cm，异常纱长55. 5cm，异常纱比正常纱长1. 0 cm，伸长率为 1. 83%；从重量上分析，异常纱长 55. 5 cm，质量38. 5 mg，折合纱线号数 69. 4 tex，正常纱的纺出 号数在 67 tex~70. 6 tex，正常纱与异常纱质量一致；从竹节号数上分析，异常纱的竹节号数78 tex ~79. 3 tex，正常纱的竹节号数78. 5 tex~79. 5 tex，异常纱竹节号数正常。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">由以上数据可知，该布面粗经问题中，纱线不存在异常现象，应为某一根经纱张力松弛织入布内，这根经纱在布面呈现松弛状态，造成布面粗经。&nbsp;</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(192, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">3. 1. 2 布面粗经问题产生原因汇总</span></strong></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">纺纱方面，布面长粗主要是由长度在 2 m 以下的长片段不匀造成。织布方面，布面长粗一般长度 2 m 以上，纱疵集中且数量较大，手感布面比较粗糙，主要是由松紧经、双经、双纬等造成。&nbsp;</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(192, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">3. 2 布面风格差异</span></strong></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">牛仔织物布面风格问题主要有条影、色档、边 中色差、片段色差、竹节暴露等。&nbsp;</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; color: rgb(192, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">3. 2. 1 纱线排列不匀</span></strong></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">赛络纺 C 68. 6 tex 竹节纱，节粗1. 5 倍，布面水洗程度相同，颜色一致，布面风格比前期打样板有变化，布面有色差、条影问题。分析了织物经密、纬密、竹节号数、经向竹节与平纱搭配比例、竹 节号数、节距号数、竹节倍率、单位面积质量、经向伸长率等9 个方面。试验结果显示，竹节纱排列产生严重重叠是产生布面色差、条影的主要原因。<br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; color: rgb(192, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">3. 2. 2 布面缩率差异</span></strong></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">赛络纺 C58. 3tex（Pu 83. 3 dtex）包芯竹节纱，节粗1. 3 倍，用户反馈大货比样品竹节看起来突出，并有条影。&nbsp;</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">分析布的伸长率，样品布的伸长率是25. 7%，大货布的伸长率是 30%，两者缩率差异4. 3 个百分点。分析平纱和竹节纱排列及竹节纱占比，大货布的竹节纱占比 46. 3%，样品布纱线 竹节纱占比 45. 2%；分析节粗，各做100 段，样品布节粗 1. 34 倍，大货布节粗1. 35 倍，倍数差异不大。查当时生产记录：样品布节粗 1. 33 倍，大货布节粗1. 34 倍，在控制范围内。查生产使用长丝类型，发现样品和大货使用了同号数不同生产厂家型号的长丝。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">通过以上拆布分析，认为布面风格问题是回缩性根数差异造成的，而这种差异是在生产包芯纱时，样品和大货采用了不同型号的长丝，造成织物经预缩整理后的长丝回缩差异，回缩率大的竹节显粗。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; color: rgb(192, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">3. 2. 3 牛仔织物风格差异问题产生原因汇总</span></strong></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">纱线原因造成的布面风格问题主要有毛羽纱、重量偏差在 4. 0% 以上的错号纱、捻度不匀大、相邻纱线极差偏大、纤维混和不匀。织布原因 造成布面风格问题主要有整经张力不匀、染色不匀、上浆不匀、纱线排列不均匀、先做先用没有做好。&nbsp;</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; color: rgb(192, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">3. 3 纱线断头</span></strong></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">牛仔织物布面疵点多数产生在纱线断头以后，各工序断头率上升，容易造成浆染、织布松紧经，织机效率达不到 95% 以上，导致开车痕疵点增多，布面质量下降。因此，通过降低从整经至织布工序的纱线断头数，可提高牛仔质量。&nbsp;</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; color: rgb(192, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">3. 3. 1 大倍数竹节纱断头</span></strong></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">C55. 5 tex 赛络竹节纱，节粗2. 5倍，用户反馈纱线弱捻，脱节严重，纱线强力低，第一个轴百根万米断头 3. 0根，第二个轴百根万米断头3. 5根。此品种节粗大，且竹节长度均在 20 cm 左右，容易出现竹节段弱捻。筒纱定长大，筒纱外部所受张力大，竹节段容易出现滑脱。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">复倒筒纱情况。断头大部分发生在竹节段， 部分发生在竹节与节距交界处。竹节段发毛，纤维集聚形成疵点。用户提供的断头大部分是竹节 段断头以及捻结打到竹节段断头。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">控制措施。做大倍数竹节纱时，细纱整修卷捻区，避免弱捻，细纱前罗拉转速不能过高，由 200 r/min 降为 180 r/min；在均衡加湿的情况 下，每隔 1 h 加湿一次，加湿 32 h 后方可包装；严格控制细纱接头长度，不宜太长；减小筒纱定长，筒纱质量在 1. 67 kg 以下；保证捻接强力；包装套采用 PP 网，防止磨纱。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; color: rgb(192, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">3. 3. 2 牛仔织物断头问题产生原因汇总</span></strong></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">纱线原因造成的断头。竹节纱基纱或竹节断头、弱捻纱断头、捻接不良断头或捻接脱节、强力过低断头或强力不匀率过大、细节断头、纱线刮伤、条干不良断头、筒纱成形不良。织布原因造成的断头：邻纱相互勾结无法分开、整经张力装置不 良、整经张力及整经速度不合理以及运输环节纱线磨损等。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 18px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(192, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">4 结语</span></strong></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">在目前市场低迷的情况下，订单少，更要求质量好，质赢未来。一般正常情况下，纱线的综合质 量指标好，下游生产和布面质量好。但不能认为 纱线的某些质量指标好，下游生产和布面质量就一定好。针织物需重点解决布面阴影、布面细小 纱疵和竹节纱扭结等问题，牛仔织物需重点解决 布面粗经问题、大倍数竹节纱断头和布面风格等问题，减少质量投诉，提高用户满意度。要全面系统正确看待和理解纱线质量指标体系，并很好地 运用到生产中去，消除误区，力争把质量问题消除 在出厂之前。纱线质量控制不仅要满足用户指标 要求，还需要与销售人员深挖用户纱线用途和侧重点，不断地与用户沟通，只有这样才能生产出满足用户要求的产品。</span></p></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section>