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2022-05-20 09:08:50
<section data-role="outer" class="article135" label="edit by 135editor"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""><section class="_135editor" data-id="98294" data-tools="135编辑器"><section style="text-align: center;margin:10px auto;" class=""><section style="display:inline-block;"><section style="display:flex;justify-content: center;align-items: center;"><section style="box-shadow: rgb(194, 157, 249) 4px -4px 0px; border-radius: 12px; flex: 1 1 0%;"><section style="border: 2px solid rgb(189, 214, 252); border-radius: 12px; overflow: hidden; background-color: rgb(254, 254, 254); padding: 8px 0.6em;"><section style="display:flex;justify-content: center;align-items:center;"><section style="width: 22px;"><section style="width: 22px;"><img class="assistant" style="vertical-align: inherit; width: 100%; display: block; max-width: 100% !important;" src="https://bdn.135editor.com/files/images/editor_styles/137caf9eb5a510a5c8e2ae664b068859.jpg" data-width="100%" draggable="false"></section></section><section class="135brush" data-brushtype="text" style="letter-spacing: 2px; padding: 0px 8px; color: rgb(147, 90, 226);">一、不同织物组织对于纱线质量的要求</section><section style="width: 22px; transform: scaleX(-1);"><section style="width: 22px;"><img class="assistant" style="vertical-align: inherit; width: 100%; display: block; max-width: 100% !important;" src="https://bdn.135editor.com/files/images/editor_styles/137caf9eb5a510a5c8e2ae664b068859.jpg" data-width="100%" draggable="false"></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section><p style="vertical-align: inherit; margin-bottom: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 由于织物组织结构的不同,对于用于织造的纱线的纱疵和纱疵在布面上的显现率的要求也不尽相同。一般来说,纯棉织物中,特细织物比中粗织物要求要高;平纹织物比斜纹织物要求较高;稀薄织物比一般织物要求较高。</p><p style="vertical-align: inherit; margin-bottom: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"><br></p><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> <strong>1.平纹织物对于纱线质量的要求</strong></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> 平纹织物布面经纬纱密度比例一般比较接近,布面平整,织物组织1/1,所以对于经纬纱的条干要求较高,其中对于错纬、粗经和纬纱的条干不匀要求较严。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> <strong>2.府绸织物</strong></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> 府绸织物布面经密高、纬密低,布面经纱浮点呈颗粒状,织物组织1/1。它对经纱强力要求较高,对纬纱条干、竹节和棉结要求较严。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> <strong>3.斜纹织物</strong></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> 斜纹织物组织紧密,经密高,纬密低,布身挺,斜纹纹路清晰,织物组织有2/1,3/1和2/2。它对经纱的强力和条干要求较高,对纬纱的条干和棉结要求较严。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> <strong>4.贡缎织物</strong></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> 1)直贡 直贡织物的正面主要由经纱形成,常有五枚三飞纱直贡和五枚二飞纱直贡两种,布面厚实,布面有紧斜纹效应五枚三飞纱直贡有些尚有柔软和光滑的要求。织物组织有5/3、5/2经面缎纹。直贡织物的主要特点是大多数经纱显现于布的正面,对经纱质量要求较高(如紧经、松经、棉结、百脚等疵点要少)。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> 2)横贡 横贡织物的正面主要由纬纱形成,布身柔软,光洁似绸。织物组织是5/3纬面缎纹。横贡的主要特点是大多数纬纱显现于布的正面,对纬纱质量要求较高(如棉结、纬缩等疵点要少)。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> <strong>5.特细织物</strong></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> 特细织物是指织物经、纬均在10tex以下(60英支及以上)的织物,且大多数为精梳棉纱,其织物大都属高档产品。由于纱线较细,织物质量要求较高,因此对粗纱、竹节、条干、棉结、油纱、色纱和煤灰纱等纱疵要求极严。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> <strong> 6.稀薄织物</strong></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> 稀薄织物是指织物的经纱排列紧度和纬纱排列紧度均在50%以下,尤其是纬纱的排列紧度在45%及以下的织物。由于经纬纱密度稀,各种疵点在布面上显现率高,尤其是纬向的疵点,如条干、粗纬、竹节等,更为突出。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> <strong>7.色织织物</strong></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> 1)米通布:米通布通常是经向一根色纱和一根白纱(或者两根不同颜色的经纱)织成的布,也有经向和纬向都是由一根色纱和一根白纱(或者两根不同颜色的经纬纱)织造而成的。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> 米通布由于其织造的特点,纱疵在布面暴露明显,对于所用纱线的条干、毛羽和棉结要求都很高;2)青年布:青年布通常由经向一根色纱,纬向一根白纱织成,经纬纱同样粗细。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> 青年布与米通布类似,由于纱疵暴露明显,对于纱线的棉结要求高。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> <strong>8.涤棉/棉涤交织织物</strong></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> 棉涤/涤棉交织织物由于涤长丝的条干均一,与棉纱条干对比强烈,纱疵暴露突出,尤其是做单染时,对于棉纱的捻度、棉结、条干、毛羽要求都很高。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> <section class="_135editor" data-id="98294" data-tools="135编辑器"><section style="text-align: center;margin:10px auto;"><section style="display:inline-block;"><section style="display:flex;justify-content: center;align-items: center;"><section style="box-shadow: rgb(194, 157, 249) 4px -4px 0px; border-radius: 12px; flex: 1 1 0%;"><section style="border: 2px solid rgb(189, 214, 252); border-radius: 12px; overflow: hidden; background-color: rgb(254, 254, 254); padding: 8px 0.6em;" class=""><section style="display:flex;justify-content: center;align-items:center;"><section style="width: 22px;"><section style="width: 22px;"><img class="assistant" style="vertical-align: inherit; width: 100%; display: block; max-width: 100% !important;" src="https://bdn.135editor.com/files/images/editor_styles/137caf9eb5a510a5c8e2ae664b068859.jpg" data-width="100%" draggable="false"></section></section><section class="135brush" data-brushtype="text" style="letter-spacing: 2px; padding: 0px 8px; color: rgb(147, 90, 226);">二、不用织造紧度对于纱线质量的要求</section><section style="width: 22px; transform: scaleX(-1);"><section style="width: 22px;"><img class="assistant" style="vertical-align: inherit; width: 100%; display: block; max-width: 100% !important;" src="https://bdn.135editor.com/files/images/editor_styles/137caf9eb5a510a5c8e2ae664b068859.jpg" data-width="100%" draggable="false"></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section><p style="vertical-align: inherit; margin-bottom: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 由于织物组织结构的差异,不同组织织物的织造紧度也会存在差异。织造紧度的不同则会对纱线的质量提出不同的要求。</p><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> 根据织物紧度的大小判断织物织造的难易程度:</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> 紧度=经密/√经纱支+纬密/√纬纱支</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> 平纹 1/1 超过38有难度</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> 斜纹 2/1 超过42有难度</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 纱卡和双面斜 2/2 3/1 超过45有难度</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> 贡缎 4/1 超过47有难度</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> 有难度的织物上机要用强力好的纱,密度大的可用三入筘和四入筘。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> <section class="_135editor" data-id="98294" data-tools="135编辑器"><section style="text-align: center;margin:10px auto;"><section style="display:inline-block;"><section style="display:flex;justify-content: center;align-items: center;"><section style="box-shadow: rgb(194, 157, 249) 4px -4px 0px; border-radius: 12px; flex: 1 1 0%;"><section style="border: 2px solid rgb(189, 214, 252); border-radius: 12px; overflow: hidden; background-color: rgb(254, 254, 254); padding: 8px 0.6em;" class=""><section style="display:flex;justify-content: center;align-items:center;"><section style="width: 22px;"><section style="width: 22px;"><img class="assistant" style="vertical-align: inherit; width: 100%; display: block; max-width: 100% !important;" src="https://bdn.135editor.com/files/images/editor_styles/137caf9eb5a510a5c8e2ae664b068859.jpg" data-width="100%" draggable="false"></section></section><section class="135brush" data-brushtype="text" style="letter-spacing: 2px; padding: 0px 8px; color: rgb(147, 90, 226);">三、不同印染加工对于纱线质量的要求</section><section style="width: 22px; transform: scaleX(-1);"><section style="width: 22px;"><img class="assistant" style="vertical-align: inherit; width: 100%; display: block; max-width: 100% !important;" src="https://bdn.135editor.com/files/images/editor_styles/137caf9eb5a510a5c8e2ae664b068859.jpg" data-width="100%" draggable="false"></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section><p style="vertical-align: inherit; margin-bottom: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"><strong> 1.漂白坯</strong></p><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> 坯布经漂白后,布面清晰洁白,所以在布面上残留的疵点更易显现,尤其是一些油类、有色疵点(如竹节、油花纱、油纱、色纱、煤灰纱、“三丝”和异性纤维等)必须特别注意。化纤混纺、纯纺产品,因其本身白度较高,所以对上述疵点要求更高。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> <strong>2.印花坯</strong></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> 印花坯大致分为染底印花和白底印花两大类。染底印花由于布面上印染的色泽图案的缘故,对于坯布表面的一般性油污、色纱、油纱、煤灰纱、条干不匀等纱疵和一些织疵可有所掩盖;白底印花由于布面露白相对较多,对于上述纱疵要求较严,有时甚至要求与漂白坯相当。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> <strong> 3.染色坯</strong></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";" class=""> 染色坯分为浅色坯和深色坯两大类。浅色坯由于颜色较浅,对于布面的油污,色纱、油纱、煤灰纱、“三丝”和异性纤维等纱疵要求较高;深色坯染色较深,对于色纱、油纱、煤灰纱、条干不匀等纱疵掩盖性强,但对于蛇皮丝、棉结、死棉等纱疵要求较高。</section><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph"><p style="vertical-align:inherit;"><br></p></section></section>