立即登录
去注册
其他登录方式
手机验证码
忘记密码?
点击获取验证码
立即登录
去注册
其他登录方式
账号登录
点击获取验证码
立即注册
已有账号?去登录
点击获取验证码
确定
已有账号?去登录
2022-05-12 08:40:28
<section data-role="outer" class="article135" label="edit by 135editor"><section data-role="paragraph" class="_135editor"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"><section class="_135editor" data-tools="135编辑器" data-id="112577"><section style="margin: 20px auto;"><section style="display: flex;justify-content: flex-start;align-items: flex-end;margin-top: -11px;transform: translateZ(10px);transform: translateZ(10px);-webkit-transform: translateZ(10px);-moz-transform: translateZ(10px);-ms-transform: translateZ(10px);-o-transform: translateZ(10px);"><section class="assistant" style="width: 100px; margin-left: -5px;"><img class="assistant" style="vertical-align: inherit; width: 100%; display: block; max-width: 100% !important;" src="https://bcn.135editor.com/files/images/editor_styles/095e7f4c3f9581796cfd69bd0180109b.gif" data-width="100%" draggable="false"></section></section><section style="background-color: rgb(254, 247, 247); padding: 25px 15px; margin-top: -8px;"><section data-autoskip="1" class="135brush" style="text-align: justify;line-height:1.75em;letter-spacing: 1.5px;font-size:14px;color:#333;background: transparent;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">从正反面识别、倒顺毛鉴别、疵点鉴别、纬斜鉴别及其矫正等几个方面对纺织面料外观品质的鉴别知识进行比较详细的介绍。</span></section></section><section style="display: flex;justify-content: flex-end;align-items: flex-start;margin-top: -11px;transform: translateZ(10px);transform: translateZ(10px);-webkit-transform: translateZ(10px);-moz-transform: translateZ(10px);-ms-transform: translateZ(10px);-o-transform: translateZ(10px);"><section class="assistant" style="width: 100px; margin-left: -5px;"><img class="assistant" style="vertical-align: inherit; width: 100%; display: block; max-width: 100% !important;" src="https://bcn.135editor.com/files/images/editor_styles/c63401c78295af51524152acf331674b.png" data-width="100%" draggable="false"></section></section></section></section></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"><section class="_135editor" data-role="title" data-tools="135编辑器" data-id="112585"><section style="margin: 20px auto;"><section style="display: flex;justify-content: center;"><section><section style="display: flex;justify-content: flex-end;align-items: flex-end;"><section style="letter-spacing: 1.5px; color: rgb(247, 129, 129); font-style: oblique;"><strong>01</strong></section></section><section style="display: flex;justify-content: flex-start;align-items: flex-end;margin-top: -28px;"><section style="display: flex;"><section style="width: 70px; transform: rotateY(180deg);"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 212.1 165.39" xml:space="default"><path class="cls-1" style="fill:#fef2f2;" d="M171.3,1.87A59.37,59.37,0,0,1,164.78,1c-3.95-.83-7.9-.35-11.86-.34-4.74,0-9.4,1-14.08,1.47-2.82.3-5.55,1.31-8.34,1.93s-5.56,1.38-8.29,2.14a118.87,118.87,0,0,0-12.07,4.55,60.29,60.29,0,0,0-6,2.77,2.42,2.42,0,0,1-2.68-.09A39.56,39.56,0,0,0,93,9.12c-4.77-1.79-9.54-3.6-14.34-5.28a36.43,36.43,0,0,0-7.73-2.18C64.7.94,58.52,0,52.16,0A57.73,57.73,0,0,0,34.35,3a40.65,40.65,0,0,0-15.72,9.84,63.13,63.13,0,0,0-9,10.94A91,91,0,0,0,5.19,32.2a45.5,45.5,0,0,0-3.36,9.25A55.56,55.56,0,0,0,.77,64.83a61.78,61.78,0,0,0,2.82,11,43.9,43.9,0,0,0,3,6.57C8,84.88,9.11,88.1,11.3,91a95.21,95.21,0,0,1,5.76,8.35c2.66,4.38,6.44,7.72,9.62,11.59a93.11,93.11,0,0,0,10,10c4.76,4.24,9.63,8.48,14.67,12.24s10.12,7.48,15.43,10.92c5.09,3.3,10,6.83,15.3,9.86,3.72,2.13,7.34,4.46,11.09,6.53,3.13,1.74,6.41,3.2,9.59,4.84,1.33.68,10.19-3.8,11.43-4.48,5-2.71,32.57-18.1,34.53-19.55a4.38,4.38,0,0,1,1-.4c3.32-1.49,18.48-14,21.08-16a94.7,94.7,0,0,0,14.5-13.66C248,35.47,182.45,3,171.3,1.87ZM190.05,39H179.64V50.08H168.45V39H156.7V27.81h11.75V16.73h11.19V27.81h10.41Z"></path></svg></section></section></section><section style="padding-left: 20px;margin-top: -35px;transform: rotate(0deg);-webkit-transform: rotate(0deg);-moz-transform: rotate(0deg);-ms-transform: rotate(0deg);-o-transform: rotate(0deg);"><section style="color: rgb(247, 129, 129); text-align: justify; padding: 10px 25px; border-radius: 10px; border: 1px solid rgb(248, 195, 195);"><strong class="135brush" data-brushtype="text" hm_fix="349:251">一、正反面识别</strong></section></section></section></section></section></section></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 在各类纺织面料中,有些面料的正反面难以区别,在服装缝制过程中稍有疏忽就容易搞错,造成差错,如色泽深浅不匀、花纹不等,严重的还会造成明显的色差、花型混淆不清、织物颠倒,影响成衣外观。识别面料正反而除采用眼看、手摸的感官方法外,也有从面料的组织结构特征、花色特色、特殊整理后的外观特殊效应,以及从织物的商标贴头和印章等方面来识别。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> <strong>1.根据织物的组织结构识别</strong></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> (l)平纹织品:平纹组织的织品正反面难以识别,因而在实际上无正反面的区别(印花布除外)。一般平纹织品正面比较平整光洁,色泽匀净鲜明。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> (2)斜纹织品:斜纹组织分单面斜纹、双面斜纹两种。单面斜纹的纹路在正面清晰明显,反面则模糊不清。另外,在纹路的倾斜方面,单纱织品的正面纹路是自左上向右下倾斜,半线织物或全线织物的纹路则是自左下向右上倾斜.双面斜纹的正反面纹路基本相同,但是斜向相反。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> (3)缎纹织品:由于缎纹织品的正面经纱或纬纱浮出布面较多,布面平整紧密,富有光泽。而反面的纹路又像平纹,又像斜纹,光泽比较暗淡。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 此外,经面斜纹及经面缎纹正面的经浮点多,纬面斜纹及纬面缎纹正面的纬浮点多。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> <strong> 2.根据面料花纹和色彩识别</strong></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 各种织物正面的花纹及图案比较清晰、洁净,图案的造型及线条轮廓比较精细明显、层次分明、色彩鲜艳生动饱满;反面则较正面色泽浅淡、线条轮廓比较模糊、花纹缺乏层次、光泽亦较暗淡。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"><strong> 3.根据面料组织变化和花纹识别</strong></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 提花、提格、提条织物的织纹花纹变化多。凡是织纹正面,一般浮纱较少,条纹、格子和提出的花纹都比反面明显,而且线条清晰、轮廓突出、色泽匀净、光洋明亮柔和;反面则花纹比较模糊,轮廓不 清、色泽暗沉。也有个别提花织物反面的花纹别具一格而显别致,色彩调和文静,因此在制衣时利用反面作正料。只要织物纱线结构合理、浮长均匀、不影响使用牢度,反面亦可作正面使用。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> <strong>4.根据面料布边识别</strong></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 一般织物的布边正面较反面平整、挺括,反面的布边边沿向里卷曲。无梭织机织造的织物,正面的布边比较平整,反面边沿很易找到纬纱头的毛丛。有些高档面料。如呢绒.在织物的布边上织有字码或其他文字.而正面的字码或文字都较清晰、明显、光洁;而反面的字码或文字比较模糊,字体呈反写状。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> <strong>5.根据织物特殊整理后外观效应识别</strong></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> (1)起毛织物:织物正面耸立密集的毛绒.反面为无绒毛地组织。地组织明显的如长毛绒、丝绒、平绒、灯芯绒等。有的织物绒毛密集,连地组织的织纹也难以看出。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> (2)烂花织物:经化学处理烂成的花纹正面轮廓清晰、有层次、色泽鲜明,如果是绒面烂花,则绒面丰满平齐,如烂花绸、乔其绒等。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> <strong> 6.根据商标和印章识别</strong></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 整匹面料出厂前检验时,一般都粘贴产品商标纸或说明书,粘贴的一面为面料的反面;每匹每段两端盖有出厂日期和检验印章的是面料的反面。与内销产品不同,外销产品商标贴头和印章则盖在正面。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"><section class="_135editor" data-role="title" data-tools="135编辑器" data-id="112585"><section style="margin: 20px auto;"><section style="display: flex;justify-content: center;"><section><section style="display: flex;justify-content: flex-end;align-items: flex-end;"><section style="letter-spacing: 1.5px; color: rgb(247, 129, 129); font-style: oblique;"><strong>02</strong></section></section><section style="display: flex;justify-content: flex-start;align-items: flex-end;margin-top: -28px;"><section style="display: flex;"><section style="width: 70px; transform: rotateY(180deg);"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 212.1 165.39" xml:space="default"><path class="cls-1" style="fill:#fef2f2;" d="M171.3,1.87A59.37,59.37,0,0,1,164.78,1c-3.95-.83-7.9-.35-11.86-.34-4.74,0-9.4,1-14.08,1.47-2.82.3-5.55,1.31-8.34,1.93s-5.56,1.38-8.29,2.14a118.87,118.87,0,0,0-12.07,4.55,60.29,60.29,0,0,0-6,2.77,2.42,2.42,0,0,1-2.68-.09A39.56,39.56,0,0,0,93,9.12c-4.77-1.79-9.54-3.6-14.34-5.28a36.43,36.43,0,0,0-7.73-2.18C64.7.94,58.52,0,52.16,0A57.73,57.73,0,0,0,34.35,3a40.65,40.65,0,0,0-15.72,9.84,63.13,63.13,0,0,0-9,10.94A91,91,0,0,0,5.19,32.2a45.5,45.5,0,0,0-3.36,9.25A55.56,55.56,0,0,0,.77,64.83a61.78,61.78,0,0,0,2.82,11,43.9,43.9,0,0,0,3,6.57C8,84.88,9.11,88.1,11.3,91a95.21,95.21,0,0,1,5.76,8.35c2.66,4.38,6.44,7.72,9.62,11.59a93.11,93.11,0,0,0,10,10c4.76,4.24,9.63,8.48,14.67,12.24s10.12,7.48,15.43,10.92c5.09,3.3,10,6.83,15.3,9.86,3.72,2.13,7.34,4.46,11.09,6.53,3.13,1.74,6.41,3.2,9.59,4.84,1.33.68,10.19-3.8,11.43-4.48,5-2.71,32.57-18.1,34.53-19.55a4.38,4.38,0,0,1,1-.4c3.32-1.49,18.48-14,21.08-16a94.7,94.7,0,0,0,14.5-13.66C248,35.47,182.45,3,171.3,1.87ZM190.05,39H179.64V50.08H168.45V39H156.7V27.81h11.75V16.73h11.19V27.81h10.41Z"></path></svg></section></section></section><section style="padding-left: 20px;margin-top: -35px;transform: rotate(0deg);-webkit-transform: rotate(0deg);-moz-transform: rotate(0deg);-ms-transform: rotate(0deg);-o-transform: rotate(0deg);"><section style="color: rgb(247, 129, 129); text-align: justify; padding: 10px 25px; border-radius: 10px; border: 1px solid rgb(248, 195, 195);"><strong class="135brush" data-brushtype="text" hm_fix="316:247">二、倒顺毛鉴别</strong></section></section></section></section></section></section></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 有些服装面料,如灯芯绒、平绒、丝绒、长毛绒及各种呢绒等,其绒面有倒顺之分。这些面料正、反面的毛头都有明显差别。一般用手抚摸.毛头撑起的为倒毛。毛头顺服的为顺毛。此外,颜色也有明显差异。用这类面料制作服装,区分绒面的正反面显而易见,如灯芯绒的绒面是正面,而正确判断面料绒毛走向,采用倒毛或顺毛裁剪。此外,用有倒顺毛的面料裁剪时,均需采用单片裁剪法,以便主副件绒毛倒顺一致,否则成衣效果会不一致。有些面料有闪光效应,也必须注意倒顺,否则闪光颜色会不一致,影响其效果。有些不对称格子的面料,也要注意倒顺之分,其处理方法与有倒顺的毛呢料、灯芯绒的处理方法一样。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"><section class="_135editor" data-role="title" data-tools="135编辑器" data-id="112585"><section style="margin: 20px auto;"><section style="display: flex;justify-content: center;"><section><section style="display: flex;justify-content: flex-end;align-items: flex-end;"><section style="letter-spacing: 1.5px; color: rgb(247, 129, 129); font-style: oblique;"><strong>03</strong></section></section><section style="display: flex;justify-content: flex-start;align-items: flex-end;margin-top: -28px;"><section style="display: flex;"><section style="width: 70px; transform: rotateY(180deg);"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 212.1 165.39" xml:space="default"><path class="cls-1" style="fill:#fef2f2;" d="M171.3,1.87A59.37,59.37,0,0,1,164.78,1c-3.95-.83-7.9-.35-11.86-.34-4.74,0-9.4,1-14.08,1.47-2.82.3-5.55,1.31-8.34,1.93s-5.56,1.38-8.29,2.14a118.87,118.87,0,0,0-12.07,4.55,60.29,60.29,0,0,0-6,2.77,2.42,2.42,0,0,1-2.68-.09A39.56,39.56,0,0,0,93,9.12c-4.77-1.79-9.54-3.6-14.34-5.28a36.43,36.43,0,0,0-7.73-2.18C64.7.94,58.52,0,52.16,0A57.73,57.73,0,0,0,34.35,3a40.65,40.65,0,0,0-15.72,9.84,63.13,63.13,0,0,0-9,10.94A91,91,0,0,0,5.19,32.2a45.5,45.5,0,0,0-3.36,9.25A55.56,55.56,0,0,0,.77,64.83a61.78,61.78,0,0,0,2.82,11,43.9,43.9,0,0,0,3,6.57C8,84.88,9.11,88.1,11.3,91a95.21,95.21,0,0,1,5.76,8.35c2.66,4.38,6.44,7.72,9.62,11.59a93.11,93.11,0,0,0,10,10c4.76,4.24,9.63,8.48,14.67,12.24s10.12,7.48,15.43,10.92c5.09,3.3,10,6.83,15.3,9.86,3.72,2.13,7.34,4.46,11.09,6.53,3.13,1.74,6.41,3.2,9.59,4.84,1.33.68,10.19-3.8,11.43-4.48,5-2.71,32.57-18.1,34.53-19.55a4.38,4.38,0,0,1,1-.4c3.32-1.49,18.48-14,21.08-16a94.7,94.7,0,0,0,14.5-13.66C248,35.47,182.45,3,171.3,1.87ZM190.05,39H179.64V50.08H168.45V39H156.7V27.81h11.75V16.73h11.19V27.81h10.41Z"></path></svg></section></section></section><section style="padding-left: 20px;margin-top: -35px;transform: rotate(0deg);-webkit-transform: rotate(0deg);-moz-transform: rotate(0deg);-ms-transform: rotate(0deg);-o-transform: rotate(0deg);"><section style="color: rgb(247, 129, 129); text-align: justify; padding: 10px 25px; border-radius: 10px; border: 1px solid rgb(248, 195, 195);"><strong class="135brush" data-brushtype="text" hm_fix="318:253">三、疵点鉴别</strong></section></section></section></section></section></section></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 有无疵点是检验面料质量的重要标准,产生疵点的原因主要有以下几个方面:</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 1.纤维质量欠佳而产生疵点,称纱疵;</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 2.纺织时产生的疵点,称织疵;</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 3.印染、整理等工艺过程中产生的疵点.称印整疵点。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 严重的疵点应剪掉,在呢绒和丝绸织品中有比较轻的疵点,应在疵点外纬而的布边上拴一根小线绳作标记,即俗称的“小辫”。在其它纺织品上.如人造棉、涤棉布上不拴“小辫”,而根据具体情况 (疵点严重程度)评定面料的等级。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 轻微的疵点会直接影响美观,严重的疵点会损坏局部的强度和耐磨度,所以对面料上的疵点在裁剪时应尽量避开。如无法避开时可把疵点安排在服装不经常受磨的部位,以免影响衣服的外观及耐牢度。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 1.原纱疵点。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 由于纱疵而造成的布面疵点。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 2.原色布疵点。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 3.色织布疵点。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 4.印染布疵点。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"><section class="_135editor" data-role="title" data-tools="135编辑器" data-id="112585"><section style="margin: 20px auto;"><section style="display: flex;justify-content: center;"><section><section style="display: flex;justify-content: flex-end;align-items: flex-end;"><section style="letter-spacing: 1.5px; color: rgb(247, 129, 129); font-style: oblique;"><strong>04</strong></section></section><section style="display: flex;justify-content: flex-start;align-items: flex-end;margin-top: -28px;"><section style="display: flex;"><section style="width: 70px; transform: rotateY(180deg);"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 212.1 165.39" xml:space="default"><path class="cls-1" style="fill:#fef2f2;" d="M171.3,1.87A59.37,59.37,0,0,1,164.78,1c-3.95-.83-7.9-.35-11.86-.34-4.74,0-9.4,1-14.08,1.47-2.82.3-5.55,1.31-8.34,1.93s-5.56,1.38-8.29,2.14a118.87,118.87,0,0,0-12.07,4.55,60.29,60.29,0,0,0-6,2.77,2.42,2.42,0,0,1-2.68-.09A39.56,39.56,0,0,0,93,9.12c-4.77-1.79-9.54-3.6-14.34-5.28a36.43,36.43,0,0,0-7.73-2.18C64.7.94,58.52,0,52.16,0A57.73,57.73,0,0,0,34.35,3a40.65,40.65,0,0,0-15.72,9.84,63.13,63.13,0,0,0-9,10.94A91,91,0,0,0,5.19,32.2a45.5,45.5,0,0,0-3.36,9.25A55.56,55.56,0,0,0,.77,64.83a61.78,61.78,0,0,0,2.82,11,43.9,43.9,0,0,0,3,6.57C8,84.88,9.11,88.1,11.3,91a95.21,95.21,0,0,1,5.76,8.35c2.66,4.38,6.44,7.72,9.62,11.59a93.11,93.11,0,0,0,10,10c4.76,4.24,9.63,8.48,14.67,12.24s10.12,7.48,15.43,10.92c5.09,3.3,10,6.83,15.3,9.86,3.72,2.13,7.34,4.46,11.09,6.53,3.13,1.74,6.41,3.2,9.59,4.84,1.33.68,10.19-3.8,11.43-4.48,5-2.71,32.57-18.1,34.53-19.55a4.38,4.38,0,0,1,1-.4c3.32-1.49,18.48-14,21.08-16a94.7,94.7,0,0,0,14.5-13.66C248,35.47,182.45,3,171.3,1.87ZM190.05,39H179.64V50.08H168.45V39H156.7V27.81h11.75V16.73h11.19V27.81h10.41Z"></path></svg></section></section></section><section style="padding-left: 20px;margin-top: -35px;transform: rotate(0deg);-webkit-transform: rotate(0deg);-moz-transform: rotate(0deg);-ms-transform: rotate(0deg);-o-transform: rotate(0deg);"><section style="color: rgb(247, 129, 129); text-align: justify; padding: 10px 25px; border-radius: 10px; border: 1px solid rgb(248, 195, 195);"><strong class="135brush" data-brushtype="text" hm_fix="338:249">四、纬斜鉴别及其矫正</strong></section></section></section></section></section></section></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 各类色织布在织造和整理过程中,因受机械张力等的影响,使织物幅面出现纬纱不正现象,统称为“纬斜”。纬斜有格斜、花斜和纬纱斜等,以格斜为最多见,特别在各类格子绒布中更为突出。色织布的纬斜有如下三种形式:</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 1.一边纬斜:表现布料的幅面呈一端高一端低的斜面状。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 2.正中弓形纬斜:表现布料的幅面在中间呈圆弧状的凹进。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 3.侧面弓形纬斜:表现布料的幅面一侧(左侧或右侧)呈圆弧状的凹进。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 无论那一种纬斜形式,如不事先矫正,裁制成服装后都会有损服装外观质量和内在质量。如格子衣料或横条衣料上严重的纬斜会形成服装衣片的左右或前后之间,条、格不能对准,严重影响服装的外观质量。纬斜不予矫正会造成衣片的纬纱丝绺不正,使成衣扭曲而摆不平服,造成严重的服装成品内在质量问题。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> <strong>矫正纬斜方法有两种:</strong></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 1.手工矫正:将原料喷水潮湿后顺纬斜方向两人对拉。这种方法虽然有效,但劳动强度高,速度慢。</section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> </section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; color: rgb(47, 45, 45); font-family: Arial, 微软雅黑, "Microsoft yahei";"> 2.机器矫正:纬斜矫正机大都由服装厂自行设计制造。矫正机由支架、传动、喷蒸汽装置、调节拉纬装置和熨烫滚筒等五大部件组成。其特点是省力、工效快.有些纬斜严重的衣料,要反复多次矫正才能收效。</section><p style="vertical-align:inherit;"><br></p></section><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph"><p style="vertical-align:inherit;"><br></p></section><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph"><p style="vertical-align:inherit;"><br></p></section></section>