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2012-12-12 11:11:59
<br><div><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" style="font-size: medium; max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">答 评价涤纶仿真丝绸的效果尚未有国家标准,目前工厂采用较为广泛的评估方法为直观目测和手感触摸法,也有采用测定碱减量率和物理指标,如撕破强力、伸长、密度等值的变化为衡量仿丝绸效果的参考值。这些在不同程度上都可反映出涤纶仿真丝绸的风格、效果及程度。总的评估方法可分为外观风格和特性风格两大方面,现分述于后,以供参考。 ①外观风格的评估。外观风格的评估是直观目测和触感相结合,由经验丰富的技术人员或工人评定。其实用性、客观性较强,评定内容包括色彩、光泽、图案、组织规格、手感风格等。真丝织物经染色或印花后,其色彩明快漂亮、生动高雅、色彩浓艳。 真丝截面为三角形,入射光线产生的不规则的漫射光的合成,使真丝绸呈现光亮而柔和的珍珠般光泽。涤纶的光泽具有金属感或似蜡状感,若要获得仿真丝光泽,应选择异形截面(如三叶、五叶、三角形、多角形等)的仿真丝织物,尤以三叶形为佳,因其结构特性和光泽与真丝更相似。据报道,真丝乔其纱的光泽为13,而同类纺丝绸产品为l2.5。总之,涤纶仿真丝绸织物是否光泽柔和、悦目,这是衡量仿真丝绸效果的关键所在。 真丝绸的印花图案给人一种高雅、华丽感,涤纶仿真丝绸织物要力求配以高雅、华丽的真丝绸图案,使仿真丝效果更形象、更逼真。 仿真丝绸产品的组织规格设计必须参照同类真丝绸的设计规律,以取得类似绸面效果与风格特征。 真丝绸织物的手感柔软细腻、轻盈飘逸、爽快滑溜,涤纶织物手感粗糙、触感差。要改善这种手感风格,应从原料选择、组织规格设计以及合理的后整理方面下工夫。有时仿真丝产品在碱减量过程中造成减量过度,使布面软而无身骨,飘而发疲。 ②特征风格评估。依照涤纶仿真丝绸产品所测得的有关数据进行仿真丝效果的评估,可比较准确、定量、客观地反映涤纶仿真丝效果、程度和水平。其主要内容包括以下几个方面。 静电压:目前涤纶仿真丝都通过碱减量和亲水性整理来达到仿真丝效果。如仿丝绸产品素月缎未经亲水性整理前的静电压为712V,半衰期为4.5s,经亲水性整理剂处理后的静电压为239.6V,半衰期为3.2s。一般认为仿丝绸产品经亲水性抗静电整理后,静电压在300V,半衰期在10s以内,就基本可达到仿真丝效果。 表面比电阻值:通过对织物表面电阻率的测试以衡量织物的抗静电性及其效果。比电阻值越小,其抗静电性越强。如仿真丝绸织物涤纶绉未经亲水性抗静电整理时的表面电阻为1.83×10<sup style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-size: 10.5px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">14</sup>Ω,经整理后的表面电阻为1.45×10<sup style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-size: 10.5px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">10</sup>Ω,而同类真丝绸织物(真丝双绉)的表面比电阻为3.41×10<sup style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-size: 10.5px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">10</sup>Ω。 悬垂性:悬垂性优良是真丝绸特有的风格,仿真丝绸产品只要从原料选择、组织设计及合理的碱减量和亲水性抗静电等后整理方面做到合理,一般仿真丝绸产品的悬垂性可接近同类真丝织物。如真丝素缎的悬垂系数为32.5%,而涤双绉的悬垂系数为24.6%,染色涤素缎为30.9%。说明仿丝绸产品的悬垂性可接近同类真丝绸织物。 透气量:涤纶丝的线密度粗细、截面形状、捻度、经纬密度和碱减量率都能影响仿丝绸的透气性。织物的透气量越大,其透气性越好,穿着也越舒适。涤纶仿真丝绸织物,用异形丝其透气量要比圆形丝好;纤维线密度越细其透气性越好;织物捻度大,经纬密度小的透气量好;减量率大好于减量率小的,其大小主要取决于织物组织结构。 吸湿性:真丝绸织物具有优良的吸湿性及排汗性。涤纶织物吸湿性差、穿着闷热,不吸汗有粘身感。但对涤纶仿真丝绸产品进行亲水性整理后可有效地提高其吸湿性,达到仿丝绸效果。例如:真丝双绉的吸湿性为l6.67s(用AATCC 39一l980方法测试一水滴法),而未经亲水整理的涤双绉的吸湿性为1620.78s,经亲水整理后的涤双绉为l2.Ols。 柔软度和摩擦系数:通过风格仪进行测试织物的弯曲刚性及静、动摩擦系数求得。弯曲刚性用SB表示织物弯曲程度,SB值小表示手感柔软,动摩擦系数UK表示织物的光滑程度,UK 值小则手感光滑,动摩擦系数的变异系数cv(即 UK的变异系数),一般CV值大表示有“爽”感。因此,根据SB、UK、CV的测量值即可定量地反映出手感柔软和滑爽程度。表5-9是真丝绸与仿丝绸的测试比较。 表5-9真丝绸与仿丝绸的测试比较</span></p><table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px auto 10px; padding: 0px; width: 444px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><tbody style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><tr class="firstRow" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; height: 21px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><td valign="top" width="140" height="21" style="max-inline-size: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-all; border-width: 2px 1px 1px 2px; border-style: solid; border-color: windowtext; border-image: initial; cursor: text; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-right: 1px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 1px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; width: auto; height: auto; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> 晶<span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> </span>种</span></p></td><td valign="top" width="141" height="21" style="max-inline-size: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-all; border-top: 2px solid windowtext; border-right: 1px solid windowtext; border-bottom: 1px solid windowtext; border-left: none; border-image: initial; cursor: text; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-right: 1px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 1px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; width: auto; height: auto; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> SB值/<span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">cN</span>·<span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">mm-1</span></span></p></td><td valign="top" width="141" height="21" style="max-inline-size: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-all; border-top: 2px solid windowtext; border-right: 1px solid windowtext; border-bottom: 1px solid windowtext; border-left: none; border-image: initial; cursor: text; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-right: 1px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 1px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; width: auto; height: auto; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> UK值</span></p></td><td valign="top" width="141" height="21" style="max-inline-size: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-all; border-top: 2px solid windowtext; border-right: 2px solid windowtext; border-bottom: 1px solid windowtext; border-left: none; border-image: initial; cursor: text; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-right: 1px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 1px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; width: auto; height: auto; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> CV值/%</span></p></td></tr><tr style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; height: 23px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><td valign="top" width="140" height="23" style="max-inline-size: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-all; border-top: none; border-right: 1px solid windowtext; border-bottom: 1px solid windowtext; border-left: 2px solid windowtext; border-image: initial; cursor: text; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-right: 1px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 1px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; width: auto; height: auto; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> 真丝缎</span></p></td><td valign="top" width="141" height="23" style="max-inline-size: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-all; border-top: none; border-right: 1px solid windowtext; border-bottom: 1px solid windowtext; border-left: none; border-image: initial; cursor: text; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-right: 1px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 1px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; width: auto; height: auto; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> 1.2</span></p></td><td valign="top" width="141" height="23" style="max-inline-size: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-all; border-top: none; border-right: 1px solid windowtext; border-bottom: 1px solid windowtext; border-left: none; border-image: initial; cursor: text; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-right: 1px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 1px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; width: auto; height: auto; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> 0.538</span></p></td><td valign="top" width="141" height="23" style="max-inline-size: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-all; border-top: none; border-right: 2px solid windowtext; border-bottom: 1px solid windowtext; border-left: none; border-image: initial; cursor: text; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-right: 1px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 1px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; width: auto; height: auto; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> 6.3</span></p></td></tr><tr style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; height: 22px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><td valign="top" width="140" height="22" style="max-inline-size: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-all; border-top: none; border-right: 1px solid windowtext; border-bottom: 1px solid windowtext; border-left: 2px solid windowtext; border-image: initial; cursor: text; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-right: 1px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 1px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; width: auto; height: auto; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> 涤美缎</span></p></td><td valign="top" width="141" height="22" style="max-inline-size: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-all; border-top: none; border-right: 1px solid windowtext; border-bottom: 1px solid windowtext; border-left: none; border-image: initial; cursor: text; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-right: 1px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 1px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; width: auto; height: auto; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> 0.3</span></p></td><td valign="top" width="141" height="22" style="max-inline-size: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-all; border-top: none; border-right: 1px solid windowtext; border-bottom: 1px solid windowtext; border-left: none; border-image: initial; cursor: text; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-right: 1px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 1px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; width: auto; height: auto; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> 0.25</span></p></td><td valign="top" width="141" height="22" style="max-inline-size: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-all; border-top: none; border-right: 2px solid windowtext; border-bottom: 1px solid windowtext; border-left: none; border-image: initial; cursor: text; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-right: 1px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 1px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; width: auto; height: auto; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> 4.8</span></p></td></tr><tr style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; height: 23px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><td valign="top" width="140" height="23" style="max-inline-size: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-all; border-top: none; border-right: 1px solid windowtext; border-bottom: 1px solid windowtext; border-left: 2px solid windowtext; border-image: initial; cursor: text; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-right: 1px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 1px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; width: auto; height: auto; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> 真丝双绉</span></p></td><td valign="top" width="141" height="23" style="max-inline-size: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-all; border-top: none; border-right: 1px solid windowtext; border-bottom: 1px solid windowtext; border-left: none; border-image: initial; cursor: text; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-right: 1px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 1px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; width: auto; height: auto; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> 0.4</span></p></td><td valign="top" width="141" height="23" style="max-inline-size: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-all; border-top: none; border-right: 1px solid windowtext; border-bottom: 1px solid windowtext; border-left: none; border-image: initial; cursor: text; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-right: 1px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 1px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; width: auto; height: auto; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> 0.855</span></p></td><td valign="top" width="141" height="23" style="max-inline-size: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-all; border-top: none; border-right: 2px solid windowtext; border-bottom: 1px solid windowtext; border-left: none; border-image: initial; cursor: text; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-right: 1px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 1px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; width: auto; height: auto; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> 6.3</span></p></td></tr><tr style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; height: 22px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><td valign="top" width="140" height="22" style="max-inline-size: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-all; border-top: none; border-right: 1px solid windowtext; border-bottom: 2px solid windowtext; border-left: 2px solid windowtext; border-image: initial; cursor: text; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-right: 1px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 1px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; width: auto; height: auto; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> 涤乔绉</span></p></td><td valign="top" width="141" height="22" style="max-inline-size: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-all; border-top: none; border-right: 1px solid windowtext; border-bottom: 2px solid windowtext; border-left: none; border-image: initial; cursor: text; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-right: 1px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 1px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; width: auto; height: auto; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> 0.7</span></p></td><td valign="top" width="141" height="22" style="max-inline-size: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-all; border-top: none; border-right: 1px solid windowtext; border-bottom: 2px solid windowtext; border-left: none; border-image: initial; cursor: text; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-right: 1px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 1px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; width: auto; height: auto; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> 0.443</span></p></td><td valign="top" width="141" height="22" style="max-inline-size: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-break: break-all; border-top: none; border-right: 2px solid windowtext; border-bottom: 2px solid windowtext; border-left: none; border-image: initial; cursor: text; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-right: 1px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 1px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; width: auto; height: auto; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> 7.3</span></p></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> 从上表说明,涤美缎的手感和滑感比真丝略好,但“爽”感略差。涤乔绉的“滑爽”感好于真丝双绉,但手感略差。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" id="autoparagraph" style="font-size: medium; max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-family: 微软雅黑, "Microsoft YaHei", sans-serif; font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section></div>