<div>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;纱线结构包括纱条内部的结构、线密度、捻度与捻向等。纱线的结构与性质对织物性能与外观风格有着很大的影响。</div><div><br></div><div><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　1．纱线线密度对织物性能的影响 细特纱可以织成轻薄织物，粗特纱则织成粗厚织物。不同线密度的织物，不仅薄厚不同，它们的风格特征也各不相同。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　棉织物中，粗平布、劳动布等，要求织物厚实、耐磨，用粗特纱。例如，靛蓝坚固呢常用58tex×58tex（10英支×10英支）或58tex×73tex(10（10英支×8英支）。棉织物中采用中特纱的比较多。而巴里纱、细纺、细特府绸等轻薄仿丝绸风格的棉织物与涤／棉织物则采用细特纱。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　同一类织物，可采用不同的纱线线密度，以形成系列产品，丰富织物的品种和档次。棉织府绸有29tex×42tex(20英支×14英支）的纱府绸，也有（14tex×2)×28tex(42英支／221英支）的半线府绸，而细特精梳府绸规格有（经、纬纱相同）：J7texx2(80英支／2）、J6tex×2（120英支／2），卡其类织物有36tex×48tex（16英支×12英支）的纯纱卡其，也有（14tex×2）x28tex（42英支/2×21英支）的半线卡其等。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　2．纱线的掩度对织物性能的影响 捻度影响纱线结构的紧密度，从而影响到纱的线密度、刚度、弹性、强力乃至条干均匀度及表面光泽。捻度小，纱条柔软、毛羽稍多，织物手感丰厚柔软。随着捻度的增加，成纱结构趋于紧密，线密度降低，刚度与弹性增加。织物手感也变得挺爽、弹性好。但是，捻度过大，则纱条僵直，条干恶化，光泽变差，强力反而下降。织物手感也僵硬、粗糙。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　一般来说，织物风格要求丰厚柔软、光泽好的，纱线捻度应小些；反之，织物风格硬挺、轻薄、弹性好的，纱线捻度应大些。贡缎织物要求丰厚柔软、光滑、光泽好，纱线捻度宜小。起绒织物的起绒用纱（如棉绒布中的纬纱）以及毛织缩绒织物的纱线，都应采用较小的捻度。因此，粗纺毛织物的纱线捻度比精纺毛织物小。而在精纺毛织物中，需经轻缩绒的毛面织物（如毛面啥味呢），其纱线捻度比光面织物小些，混纺毛织物中含有涤纶、腈纶等化学纤维时，捻度也应小些。丝织物中要求表面光泽好的纺类织物，经、纬一般不加捻或加弱捻。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　风格挺爽的织物如巴里纱，纱线捻度应大些。毛织物中要求贡子坚挺饱满的华达呢，捻度应大。单面花呢，表面浮线长，呢面易起球，捻度也应大些。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　绉织物中起绉用纱线的捻度更大。棉织绉纱织物，经纱用一般捻度，纬纱捻度为普通纱的1.8～2.5倍。丝织绉织物，乔其、双绉的起绉丝线，捻度高达18～30捻／cm。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　有些织物，为了达到某种风格，对经纱和纬纱的捻度提出不同的要求。麻纱织物的风格既要挺括，又要滑爽。如果经、纬都采用高捻度，会使布身硬实，布面粗糙，缺乏弹性；反之，如果经、纬都用低捻度，布身过软，不挺括。因此，麻纱采用高捻度的经纱和低捻度的纬纱相交织，刚柔相济，便能充分体现麻纱的特有风格。经纱捻度比一般织物用纱的捻度高10％左右，纬纱则比一般织物适当降低。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　府绸织物对经、纬纱捻度也有不同的要求，经纱捻度应适当小些，而纬纱捻度应适当大些。这样，不仅有利于织物手感滑爽，而且能增加经纱的屈曲波高，使菱形颗粒突出于织物表面，府绸效应好。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　纱与线的捻度比对织物的强力、耐磨、光泽手感均有一定影响。当股线与单纱的捻系数比值等于根号2时，股线可以达到最入强方；当果数比值为1时，股表纤维行了线心线，可以获得最好的光泽，织物弹性好，手感滑爽。棉织斜卡类织物，线与纱的捻系数比值，经线以1.2左右为宜，纬线以1.2-1.4为宜。中长化纤，线与纱的捻系数比值应比纯棉纱略大，一般可为1.5～1.6。在毛织物中，股线捻度小于单纱时，织物身骨偏软；若捻系数比值达1.5时，织物又显得过于硬挺，一般来说，应以股线捻度略大于单纱为宜。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　3．不同组织织物纱线输向的配置 纱线的捻向有“Z”捻与“S”捻之分。捻向不同，纤谁在纱条中的走向不同，对光线的反射方向也不同，于是就影响到织物表面的光泽与纹路的清晰程度，而经、纬纱的捻向配合可影响到织物的手感和厚度。图4-1（a）所示为经、纬纱用异向捻，织物表面所呈现的纤维斜向一致，对光线的反射方向也一致，因而织物的光泽好；经、纬纱相交处的纤维斜向交叉，妨碍相互嵌入，因而组织点显得突出，如图4-1（a）中虚线所示，织物也就丰厚松软。图4-1（b）所示为经纬纱捻向相同，织物表面所呈现的纤维斜向相互垂直，织物对光线的反射呈散射效应，织物光泽柔和；经纬纱相交处，纤维斜向一致，如图中虚线所示，能相互连接，甚至嵌合，织物显得紧密，厚度也较小。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（1）平纹织物：经、纬可采用同向捻或异向捻。要求织物质地松厚而柔软的，宜采用经纬异句捻交织，如色织单面绒、凹凸绒布等。府绸也应采用经、纬异向捻，成品光泽较好，颗粒饱满突出，纹路清晰。一些质地薄而紧密的平纹类织物，如细纺等，宜采用经纬同向捻。巴里纱和麻纱，经纬也必须采用同一捻向，使布面上经、纬倾斜方向互相垂直，纹路清晰，织物薄爽。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（2）斜纹织物：为使纹路清晰，对于经面纱斜纹，经纱用Z捻，组织用左斜纹；对于半线或全线织物，单纱用Z捻，股线用S捻，织物组织用右斜纹。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（3）缎纹织物：缎纹织物的经纬纱捻向与组织的织纹倾向有关。要求表面光泽好的，经面缎纹的经纱捻向、纬面缎纹的纬纱捻向应与缎纹组织点的纹路倾向一致；而要求纹路清晰突出的直贡缎，则应使经纱捻向与由经浮点构成的纹路倾向相垂直。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" id="autoparagraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-family: 微软雅黑, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section></div><div style="text-align: center; "></div><div style="text-align: center; "></div><div style="text-align: center; "><br></div><div style="text-align: center; "></div><div style="text-align: center; "><img src="http://dayaotex-img.gz.bcebos.com/article/fffspic/fzmlsj1527.png"></div>