<section data-role="paragraph" class="_135editor" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　1．织物设计</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　(1)混纺比：涤麻混纺细特单纱织物以内销为主，考虑到国内消费特点和消费水平，织物应该挺括，不易起皱，布面较细洁，所以涤纶的混纺比高于苎麻。一般，涤纶的混纺比为55％~70％，苎麻的混纺比为30％~45％。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　(2)纱线特数：作为夏季衣料，要求织物轻薄、透气、吸汗，所以应选择纱线线密度较小的纱织造。但线密度太小，必然给织造加工带来一定难度。所以纱线傲在12.5~16.7tex(60~80公支)之间。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　(3)纱线捻度：为了减少纱条毛羽，提高成纱光洁度，增加纤维间的抱合力，纱的捻度可适当提高，一般超过临界捻系数10％左右。同时也提高了织物的挺括度。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（4）织物紧度：为得到轻薄、透气的夏令服装面料，避免织物有硬糙感，织物紧度应低于同类纯棉或涤／棉织物。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（5）织物组织：由于纱线线密度小，密度小，所以一般选择经纬纱交织点多的平纹组织。同时为使布面形成粗细节的麻织物外观，可选择平纹变化组织，如纬重平等。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　2．准备与织造</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（1）络筒：涤／麻纱络筒速度一般较慢，有利于减少纱线毛羽。选择电子清纱器清除粗节、飞花等纱疵，使织造生产顺利，并提高布面质量。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（2）整经：整经车速不宜太高，以减少纱线强力损失。上机时宜先开慢车，后开快车，以防止纱线由于张力突变而产生断头。张力应均匀，并分段分层排列。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（3）浆纱：</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　①浆料配方：PVA浆料具有亲水性羟基，极易溶于水，溶解度随温度上升而增大，并且PVA浆料的成膜性好，形成的浆膜坚韧耐磨，光洁而不发黏，弹性好，具有一定的吸湿性，这些都较适合于涤／麻纱上浆。PVA浆料的缺点是易结膜、溶解时易产生泡沫等，为此可在浆液中再加入一定量的PVA，CMC等。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　②上浆率：上浆率是浆纱工程的主要质量指标，上浆率过低，浆纱强力低，耐磨性差，毛羽不伏贴，织造时断头率高；上浆率过高，浆纱伸长差，易脆断。上浆率一般可控制在9％～12％左右，具体应视涤麻混纺比、纱线线密度以及织物组织结构不同而异。为了使上浆率稳定，还必须使浆液黏度、浓度相对稳定，故要重视调浆工艺。化学浆应经2-3h煮沸后，以高温熟浆供应，使浆槽内浆液流动性好，上浆稳定，成纱表面光滑。如果调浆煮沸时间不足，浆液黏度过大，会使上浆率波动，也将增加纱的并头、绞头和倒断头，且浆纱表面粗糙。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　③回潮率：苎麻纤维湿态强度高，故浆纱回潮率应偏高。但回潮率偏高，浆纱干燥不充分，在纤维上的黏着力就差，毛羽的被覆效果不理想，所以回潮率不能太高。16.7tex（60公支）涤麻65／35混纺纱的浆纱回潮率应控制在2.5％以下较合适，随着麻混比的增加，回潮率适当提高。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　④上浆温度：一般掌握在90～95℃左右。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　⑤压浆辊：压浆辊的压浆情况对上浆率有较大的影响。为了得到较好的被覆效果，同时兼顾渗透作用，需采用重加压工艺，并使压浆辊先重后轻。压浆辊使用微孔橡胶压辊较好。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　⑥湿分绞、分层预烘：涤／麻纱毛羽较多，采用湿分绞、分层预烘的方法，可以使相邻的经纱以最小接触状态进行烘燥，防止由于毛羽使经纱粘连。可先将浆纱预烘至70～80℃左右，再进人最后烘干，并使纱线直接与高温烘筒接触，使毛羽被烫平。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　⑦后上蜡：涤／麻纱通过浆纱后上蜡，可降低织造时经纱间的摩擦系数和静电，使毛羽更加犬贴。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（4）织造：涤／麻纱经过上浆后，毛羽虽有减少。但仍存在一定数量的毛羽，易造成经纱互用缠绕，使开日不清，在配置织造工艺参变数时要注意这一特点。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　①上机张力：由于涂／麻纱在织道过程中易产生毛羽粘连现象，从而影响梭口清晰度，因此上机张力要适当加大，以降低经纱断头。同时，上机张力适当增大以后，经纬交织时的张力较均匀、协调，使布面匀整丰满。一般根据不同品种控制68.7～137.5N（7-14kf）左右。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　②后梁位置：为了获得清晰梭口，后梁应比一般平纹织物稍低，使上下层经纱张力差异减小。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　③开口与投梭：由于涤／麻纱织造时开口不易清晰，所以可适当提早开口时间，推迟投梭时间，这样可减少由于开口不清产生的三跳疵点。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　④温湿度：织造涤／麻纱织物时，车间温湿度可稍高，温度为25～27℃，RH为72％～77％。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　3．印染加工</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　涤／麻织物的印染加工适宜采用平幅工艺，若采用绳状工艺，织物在处理过程中会受到程度不同的定形作用，加工后的布匹呈现皱纹、压死痕等严重疵点；经开幅工艺，涤／麻织物将承受打手的强力敲击，布面甚易刮伤起毛，因而影响成品的外观质量。但平幅加工时也要注意轧皱等。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（1）烧毛：烧毛工序在工艺流程的先后次序按织物品种风格确定。如先退浆后烧毛，可使布面茸毛竖立，烧毛易净，布面茸毛特别严重的织物应烧两次。一般先烧毛后染色的品种，应采用一正一反烧毛。深色织物为减少毛条影，以先染色后烧毛为好。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（2）退浆、煮练、漂白：涤／麻织物的退浆和煮练这两个工序可合并成一个工序，因为涤纶较为洁净，麻纤维也已在制纤阶段进行过充分脱胶漂白，这两种纤维上的杂质不多，在纺织过程中追加的油料和薄浆等也较易去除。要求经处理后的涤／麻织物毛效达10cm以上。漂白可用双氧水漂白。双氧水浓度同涤／棉织物漂白工艺。与此同时，可进行增白处理。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（3）丝光：涤／麻织物本身的缩率不大，且其光泽都较好，所以丝光工序对提高织物的光泽及改善其缩水率效果不显著。但经过丝光处理后的涤麻织物，无论是色泽深度及鲜艳度，均较未经丝光处理得好，尤其是染中深色时更加显著。加工可用简易小丝光，烧碱浓度比涤／棉织物丝光低，约200g／l，即可。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（4）染色：浅色可选用印地素染料染色，中深色可以选用分散／还原或分散／活性染料染色。R用热熔法染色，生产效率较高，质量稳定，但麻纤维怕干热，宜多加考虑。若采用高温高压法染色，更适应于小批量生产，染料都能很好上染，且没有干热损伤麻纤维，不会影响手感、张力等，但产量低，易出现色差。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（5）印花：一般均用涂料或分散／活性染料印花。由于麻纤维较硬，用涂料印花时手感较，因此花型宜小不宜大。在深色印花中，防拔染比涤／棉织物更困难，待进一步研究和实践。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（6）树脂及其他整理：涤／麻织物经树脂整理，对改善织物手感风格、减轻起毛起球、提高亢皱性能有明显效果。2D树脂或CPU变性2D树脂是比较理想的整理剂，使用浓度适当降氐，约为涤／棉织物正常量的70％左右。树脂整理前需进行热定形，以稳定织物的尺寸。柔次剂可同时溶于树脂整理液中。因加工缩水率不高，所以也不一定作预缩整理。但为了改进织物手感，提高弹性，改善外观风格，达到丰满、平挺效果，可采用蒸呢加工，特别是中厚型涤／麻织物。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　</p></section>