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2014-07-01 16:54:00
<section data-role="paragraph" class="_135editor" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> 由普通涤纶长丝织成的织物,其服用性能具有强度好,滑爽挺括、易洗快干等优点,但存在着手感硬、触感差、光泽不柔和、透气性、吸湿性差等缺点。若与真丝织物相比,差距更大,因此首先必须在丝线结构上仿真丝,才能消除其服用性能差的缺点。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> 1.纤维裁面</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> 涤纶长丝被是圆形截面,不具有真丝的天然光泽及柔软的手感,而且透气件较差。为此,必须通过截面变形(异形)及纵向变形(低弹加工)或者两者相结合的方法来改变其原有的性能,使其达到真丝效果。圆形截面的纤维之间排列紧密、空隙小,而异形截面的纤维由于外形不规则,纤维之间无法排列紧密,空隙相应也增大。因此异形截面纤维的膨松性、悬垂性、透气性及屈曲刚性均优于圆形截面纤维。异形纤维的种类很多,有三角形、多边形、三叫形等。由于真丝的截面是三角形,因此,相应地采用三角异形丝或三角异形加工丝,不仅能改善手感及透气性,而且光泽也与其丝相似,加强捻的绉类织物可采用圆形丝,因为经碱减量处理后均采用异形丝相比,手感相差不大,强度确比异形处好。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> 2.纤维线密度</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> 纤维的线密度与织物的服用性能有着密切的关系,纤维越细,则单纤根数越多,其织物的手感、悬垂性及透气性也越好。一般采用的仿丝纤维结构是:5tex45旦)/18f,7.6tex(68旦)/30f,7.6tex(68旦)/36f,7.6tex(68旦)/48f,线密度为0.17~0.28tex。新型涤纶的结构是:4.7tex(42且)/72f,7.6tex(68旦)/108f等,线密度为0.05tex左右(超细纤维)。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> 3.丝线捻度</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"> 丝线的捻度影响织物的外观、手感、光泽、透气性。普通的涤纶长丝织物一般不加强捻,但目前仿真丝绸主要是双绉、乔其等织物,其结构均为加强捻的丝线。绉类织物的纬丝捻度一般为280捻/10cm左右,双绉采用2S2Z的排列,顺纡绉采用同向排列,为便于织造,经丝一般加低捻60~80捻/10cm左右,乔类织物一般经纬均为强捻,2S2Z排列(绉类织物也可加180捻10cm,但是加捻后造成手感发糙,织物发硬,因此,这类产品必须通过碱减量后处理来达到改善手感。)</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" id="autoparagraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-family: 微软雅黑, "Microsoft YaHei", sans-serif; font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section>