<div><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　对于烂花织物而言，烂花加工工艺的设计是获得成员风格的员重要的因素，主要包括酸剂和酸浆糊料的选择与用量，印制设备的选择等。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　1．酸剂的选择与用量</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　根据涤／棉织物的特性，可以选用三氯化铝、硫酸铝、重硫酸钠及硫酸做酸剂，其中，硫酸最好。但酸对纤维素的水解作用除了与酸的性质有关外，还与水解温度、作用时间有很大关系。温度越高，水解越剧烈，如果温度在20～100℃范围内，酸浓度不变。则温度每增高10℃，纤维的水解速度增加2～3倍，因此，对烂花条件应特别注意。另外，如果采用辊筒印花机生产涤／棉烂花织物，酸浆中硫酸用量固定后，烂花效果还与花筒雕刻深度有关。花筒雕刻深度取1.5mm，烂花透明度比较好，烂花轮廓光沾度好。在固定花筒雕刻深度的情况下，烂花浆中硫酸用量与坯布的选择有关（包括经纬纱配置，如全包、半包、涤棉混纺、经纬纱特数、经纬密度等）。由于涤／棉包芯纱织物与涤棉混纺织物性质不同，烂花时，后者应比前者酸量增加20％-30％才能达到预期目的。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　2．酸浆糊料的选择</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　用于烂花酸浆的糊料，必须具备下列条件：耐酸性水解，印制轮廓清晰；具有较好的渗透性；利于烂透，在常温或高温条件下，不会沾污聚酯纤维；调制成的酸浆流动性好，不致造成拖浆刮刀刮色不净；具有较好的水溶性，以利净洗，使织物手感柔软。为了达到多功能要求，一般采用多种糊料拼混。以羟乙基皂荚胶、白糊精及邦A浆三合一糊料较为理想，其中羟乙基皂荚胶的流动性、渗透性和耐酸性等比其他糊料好。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　3．“透明剂”的加入</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　在涤棉混纺织物的烂花酸浆中，为增进织物对光线的“反射率”，适当提高视觉的透明感，改善织物的透明度，需加入一种透明剂“分散灰N”。用量根据坯布组织规格不同在0.1～0.2g／L左右，用量过多或过少都将影响效果。4．印制设备的选择由于某些条件的限制及工艺要求的特殊性，烂花一般在平网印花机上进行。对于活泼精细的花型，可采用辊筒印花，它还具有工作效率高、成本低等优点。采用辊筒印花时需要考虑衬布的选择。因为常用的棉衬布不耐硫酸腐蚀，而涤纶衬布的吸浆性能差，易产生溢浆，影响烂花轮廓。所以采用涤／棉65／35衬布较为理想。另外，涤／棉衬布在使用过程中，棉组分会逐渐减小而涤纶也会部分发生断键水解而生成羟基和羧基，增加了亲水性。使用涤／棉衬布也要勤洗勤换，并要求用包芯线缝头。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　5．烘燥、焙烘及汽蒸</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　印制后的烘燥是关键工序。如果落布带潮，不仅会使花形扩散开，而且在汽蒸时水解不完全，容易造成烂花不净。但烘燥过度，又会使涤／棉织物中棉组分部分纤维炭化，成为棕黑色焦胃，黏附在纤维上面很难清洗，影响产品的白度和花色鲜艳度。一般烘燥时必须掌握织物在最台一只烘缸锡林不置热气，落布后烂花浆呈浅米黄色。要严格控制烘缸蒸汽压力和运转车速燥后，织物在95-100℃的地和蒸下蒸化3min，这时棉纤维产生水解间易洗去，成品透明度。该蒸化工艺不仅可用于一般烂花织物，也适用于着色烂花织物。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　如果织物不经过汽蒸工序，也可采用焙烘法。即印花烘燥后经过100～102℃焙烘1～1．5min，使纤维在高温和酸的条件下炭化。焙烘条件对产品质量影响甚大，如炭化不完全，棉纤就会残留在织物上，烂花部位不透明，花型不清晰，焙烘过度，会产生难以去除的黑棕色焦屑，涤纶光泽灰暗。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　6．水洗后整理</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　无论是平网印烂花，还是辊筒印烂花，印制的织物经蒸化或焙烘后都在Q113型松式绳状上进行洗涤，以去除水解纤维及酸浆糊料，获得晶莹透明的效果。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　经过水洗后的烂花织物，也许会带上一点杂物，在整理时经高温处理易泛黄，影响产品的白变及色泽鲜艳度，这可在热定形前再经氧漂工艺，以避免上述疵病。必须指出，酸浆分散染料彩色烂花织物，一定要先经热定形（或热熔）固定，再进行复氧漂。否则不但分散染料大量损失，且会产生搭色等疵病，影响织物的外观。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　织物经烂花后，布身变得松弛轻飘，涤／棉混纺纱烂花织物尤为显著。所以可以通过树脂整改善手感，增加回弹性和提高服用性。此外，织物经烂花后，涤纶组分相对增加，静电和沾污现象严重。因而考虑采用抗静电剂和亲水整理剂，如亲水性有机硅整理剂等。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　7．烂花织物工艺流程及处方举例</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　例1 着色烂花织物</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　坯布：涤／棉包芯纱织物经纬纱线密度分别为：（15.4×15.4）tex。经纬密分别为：（35.4×34.5）根／10cm。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　工艺流程：</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　坯布→烧毛→亚（亚氯酸钠）、氧（过氧化钠）漂→丝光→定形→涤加白→印前定形→印着色烂花浆→蒸化→绳洗→开、轧、烘→平洗→后整理→定形→成品。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" id="autoparagraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-family: 微软雅黑, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section></div><div><br></div><div style="text-align: center; "></div><div style="text-align: center; "></div><div style="text-align: center; "></div><div style="text-align: center; "><img src="http://dayaotex-img.gz.bcebos.com/article/fffspic/fzmlsj1198.png"></div><div style="text-align: center; "><img src="http://dayaotex-img.gz.bcebos.com/article/fffspic/fzmlsj1199.png"></div><div style="text-align: center; "><br></div><div style="text-align: center; "><br></div>