<section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　1．涤纶纤维的规格（长丝)</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　涤纶芯丝的线密度直接影响烂花产品的风格。如果涤纶丝太细，则烂花部位细而软，但如果太粗，成员缺乏轻盈感。所以涤纶芯丝的线密度应根据织物的用途和风格选择。对用于装饰的烂花织物，烂花面积较大，同时考虑到织物的悬垂性，可选样特数较大的涤纶丝，如7.6tex(68旦)等。对用于夏季服装用的烂花织物，烂花面积小，同时考虑到织物的凹凸效果，则选择特数较小的涤纶丝，如5tex(45旦)等。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　2.混纺比</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　混纺比的大小除对织物的吸湿性、洗可穿性有较大影响外，还与烂花效果和成品质量有较大关系。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（1）涤／棉包芯纱外包棉纤维的包覆量与成纱质量及凹凸效果密切相关。若棉包覆量大则凹凸效果好，立体感强。但棉占比例过大，一旦涤纶丝在纺纱过程中断头，棉纤维仍能单独成少，从而产生缺少芯丝的“空芯纱”，烂花部位会出现缺丝现象，破坏了成品的外观和质量。若帛占比例过小，会产生包覆不良，使芯丝裸露，且凹凸效果差。所以棉纤维的包覆量一般在0％～60％左右。常用涤长丝5.6tex（50旦）／15f，5.6tex（50旦）／36f，5.6tex（50旦）／40f。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（2）涤棉混纺纱的混纺比与烂花效果和织物强力密切相关。这是因为织物经烂花后，棉经准被腐蚀，涤纶被留下，不仅纱线特数变小，且纱线结构疏松，纱线强力降低。所以，从保持织物虽力考虑，涤纶含量不宜过低。但涤含量过高，又会影响烂花效果。一般，涤纶含量不少于0％，即棉含量不高于50％。3．经纬纱配置根据经纬纱的不同配置，烂花效果不同，用途也不同。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（1）全包芯（经纬纱均用包芯纱）：立体感强，轮廓清晰，花纹凸出，可进行大面积烂花，多用于工艺装饰。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（2）半包芯（经纬纱中一种用包芯纱，另一种用混纺纱）：烂花效应较好，轮廓较清晰，不宜大面积烂花，多用于服装。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（3）混纺纱与混纺纱交织：烂花效应（花纹凹凸）较差，轮廓（立体感）不清晰，适宜小面队烂花，主要用于服装。不太透明，宜中老年人穿着，适合做衬衫。穿着舒适性比一般涤／棉识物好。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　4．纱线捻度</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　纱线捻度的大小与烂花布的风格特征、织物强力、织疵及纱疵等有密切的关系。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（1）包芯纱的捻度过低，会导致棉纤维和涤纶丝结合松弛，在准备工艺和织造加工过程中经不起摩擦，造成包芯纱的某些片段中失去棉纤维，产生“剥皮纱”，致使烂花部位挺爽度差，成品易起毛。但纱线捻度过高，又容易产生“空芯纱”，且织造过程中纱线收缩易产生扭结纱。一般，芯丝特数小，棉包覆量大时，芯丝易断头，为避免“空芯纱”，应使捻系数偏小。若棉包覆量小时，为改善包覆的稳定性，捻系数可偏大。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（2）涤棉混纺烂花织物的纱线捻度可比普通涤棉混纺织物高，捻系数为360（3.8英制），使织物具有一定的强度和花型清晰度。5．织物组织和紧度织物经烂花后，烂花部位的纱线变细，织物紧度降低，经纬纱易产生位移。所以应使织物中经纬纱的交织点增多，一般选用平纹组织。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　烂花织物一般为薄型织物。若紧度过高，织物无轻薄透明感，不能体现烂花织物的特征。但紧度过低，又易使织物烂花部位的经纬纱产生位移。织物紧度的设计，应结合经纬纱配置、产品用途、花型大小、生产效率等方面综合起来考虑。如果按经纬纱的配置来选择紧度，E半包=E全包；按烂花花型来选择紧度，则E大烂花=E小烂花；按包芯纱芯丝特数选择紧度，E特数小可较大。通常，E总=70%~75%，烂花部位的E总=55%％。为使网眼呈方形，经纬向紧度相接近。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　6．其他</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　选筘时，烂花布要求经纬纱排列均匀，故筘号选择较高，最好每筘1人，最多只能每筘2人，从而改善成品质量。同时要求条干毛羽均匀，棉结杂质少，原棉长度不要过长，强度不要高（以利于包缠）。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" id="autoparagraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-family: 微软雅黑, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section>