<div style="text-align: center;"><section data-role="paragraph" class="_135editor" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（一）基本风格特征</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　麻纱为细特低密织物。是一种表面纵向呈现宽狭不等细直条纹的轻薄棉织物。因手感挺爽如麻而得名。麻纱具有“直、薄、爽、透”的风格，即纹路应该直且清晰，而织物要轻薄、挺爽透气。</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（二）织物种类</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（1）普通麻纱：普通麻纱一般用3/1变化纬重平组织或1/3变化纬重平组织织物。在织物的表面出现宽窄不同的纹路。</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（2）异经麻纱：异经麻纱直条纹清晰突出，孔眼较大，透气性好。它是将上述组织配合以不同特数经纱的麻纱织物。如单根排列的经纱号数小，双根排列的经纱号数大。或者按规定的顺序和纬纱交织。</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（3）柳条麻纱：柳条麻纱是具有空筘齿效应的稀疏平纹织物。织物透气性优良。不同之处为：经纱用细特股线。股线的捻向与单纱捻向相同。经纱每隔一定距离留有一定的间隙，这样就会出现这些空隙形成的纵向条子。</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　柳条麻纱细洁轻薄，手感挺爽，孔隙清晰、透气。外观类似高级丝绸织物。</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（4）变化麻纱织物：变化麻纱织物的变化组织可以获得方格、条子、人字等各种外观。提花麻纱织物（用平纹地小提花组织）的布面可以呈现各种小花纹的外观。</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（三）麻纱织物设计</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　麻纱为仿麻织物，做夏季衣料用。应使织物具有麻织物的特点。设计时，应使织物条纹清晰、采软挺爽、牷薄透，不同组织的麻织物各有不同的加工工艺和风格特址。</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　1．普通麻纱织物</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（1）原纱要求（棉或涤／棉织物）：为使织物的直条纹整齐，纱线的条干必须均匀一致，当纱特小于14.5tex时，宜用精梳纱。这就要求选用成熟度好、短绒少的原棉。</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（2）纱线特数的选用：麻纱为薄型织物，为使织物轻薄、凉快，纱特应≤21tex，一般为13-18tex（32-45英支）的细特纱。若希望条纹明显凸出，可使经纱略粗于纬纱或经纬纱特数相同或相近。</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（3）纱线的捻度：捻度是形成麻纱风格的一个很重要的因素。麻纱条纹要求挺直，手感要求既柔软又挺爽。因此，经纱要求捻系数较高，而纬纱捻系数比一般织物小。在不影响纬向强力的前提下，纬纱捻系数越低越好。而经向捻系数可用公式aj=a一般+10%计算。</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　一般情况下，普通麻纱采用（(18×18)tex[(32×32)英支］的纱线，aj=370-400(3.9-4.2英制）；aw=285~315(3.0（3.0-3.3英制）。</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（4）织物紧度的配置：麻纱织物要求具有较好的透气性能。所以织物紧度不宜太高，应比平布略小。一般情况下，E总=74%-77%,Ej=40%~50%,Ew=45%~55%％。纬密须比经密高10％～15％。用此工艺织出的织物，布面直条纹比较明显，几能弥补因纬纱捻度低而降低纬强的缺点。</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（5）织物的组织：织物一般采2/1或3/1变化纬重平组织。3/1变化纬重平组织的经纬交织次数较少，纬纱的浮长长，而织物密度又较小，经纱容易位移，会形成稀密不匀的现象而影响组物的外理 故日前很少用。（6）纱线的捻向配置：纱线一般采用经纬纱同捻同。这样可以便经纬纱咬合紧密，织廷，而且，还可以防止织物下机时，因张力减小而引起的纱线解捻卷边。</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（7）其他：常见麻纱的织制工艺与“细平布”相仿，但在穿经时，将一个完全组织中的经纱身人同一箱齿内，两根经纱应分别以单根穿人经停片和综丝，以保持平直，不致扭绞。染整加工中应加强丝光时的阔幅，经耐久性挺爽整理。</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　2．异经麻纱</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　普通麻纱的经纬纱特数相同或相近，使纬纱弯曲程度不够大。因此，织物的纵向条纹不错凸出，经印染加工受辊筒多次轧压后，凸纹常被轧平，致使麻纱的特点不够明显。为此，应设法史麻纱具有更明显凸出的条纹。异经麻纱是采用不同特数的经纱按规定的顺序相间排列，并与适当特数的纬纱相配合。经实验得出，单根排列的经纱特数应小于双根排列的经纱特数，两科经纱特数差异在20％左右时，布面条纹最为凸出。纬纱特数比单根排列的经纱特数小时，织物的效应更好。</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　经钟且方能大的缩索而双想排列的经纱具有较小的缩率，这检排列，织物的凹凸效果显著。织造时，采用双轴或一轴织制。坯布经漂白或染色后整理后，可做夏季男衬衫的面料。</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　3．柳条麻纱织物</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　柳条麻纱织物的质地更细洁轻薄且穿着时更为凉爽舒适，并给人以高级丝绸感。</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（1）纱线特数的选择：织物采用特细特股线（同巴里纱）和精梳纱，经纬纱采用6tex×2~10tex×2(60英支×2~100英支×2）。经烧毛工艺，得到的织物洁净，布孔清晰，透气性好。</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（2）纱线捻度、捻向：织物采用高捻纱，经纬同捻向，且股线与单纱捻向同向。</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（3）织物紧度：Ej&gt;Ew，平纹。经纱采用空筘穿法，织物细薄、坚牢、透气性优良，经向条纹且经向强力小。Ej=50%-60%E.=35%~45%（4）其他：柳条之间的孔隙和柳条的宽度配置恰当。d柳=2.0~2.5mm（宽度），d空隙=0.5～0.6mm，孔隙为条纹宽度的25％。钢筘：刚性好的厚齿片（防止条纹边缘边纱向柳条孔隙处移动）。</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　4．变化麻纱织物</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　变化麻纱的产生，主要为了丰富织物的外观效应。所以它比普通麻纱的组织复杂一些，常用变化组织或联合组织的方法来构成。其经密大于纬密，当经纬纱特数相同时，Pw=(80%-%)xPj</p><p style="text-align: left; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" id="autoparagraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-family: 微软雅黑, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; text-align: start; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section></div>