<div style="text-align: center; "><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" id="autoparagraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">　　(一)基本风格特征</span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><br></span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">　　绉纱是由强捻纬纱所织成的稀薄平纹织物。沿着织物横向有着自然折皱效应，光泽柔和。织物具有“薄、结、松、弹”的风格。即手感轻薄松软、富有弹性、透气性较好、绉纹清晰。绉纱布松软、紧身、舒适的特点，很适合做内衣、睡衣、裙料、童服和装饰用品。</span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><br></span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">　　（二）起绉原理</span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><br></span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">　　绉纱布的绉效应是经染整的煮练工艺后获得的。在加工中，高温的碱溶液渗透到强捻的纬纱内部，引起纤维的膨润，直径增大。使得纱线发生收缩卷曲而引起经纬纱交织点的轻微位移。结果形成织物横向打裥起绉的外观效果。</span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><br></span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">　　主要的工艺过程是：强捻纱（高捻缩率和弹性收缩率）经过定捻、煮练（强碱起绉原理）、解捻收缩（纬纱发生扭曲），经纱与纬纱一起发生位移后，形成微微的凹凸（起绉）。</span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><br></span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">　　（三）绉纱织物设计</span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><br></span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">　　1．纬纱捻度的选择</span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><br></span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">　　为使织物横向打裥起绉，纬纱必须使用强捻纱（纱线捻度超过临界值）。强捻纱的收缩强烈，纱条紧密、光洁、毛羽少，有利于织物的透气性和织物横向打裥起绉。但纬纱捻系数过大，织物经印染加工后，起约太强烈，绉纹反而达不到自然美观的效果。同时，纬纱纺制时也很困难，严重时还会影响织物的物理机械性能。所以主要应根据印染加工后织物起绉的效果和织物的要求来决定纬纱捻度。一般情况下，当捻系数为正常纱的2～2.2倍时，织物起绉的效果较好。同时，也不会影响织物的断裂强度。</span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><br></span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">　　2．织物的紧度须遵守的原则</span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><br></span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">　　织物紧度的确定应该既保证织物的透气性，又使其起绉后不透光。另外，经向紧度E与织物起绉关系很大，一般取值较小为好（产量高）。如：Ej=25%~35%，Ew=23%-30%，EjEw=1.1:1,E总=50%~60%。</span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><br></span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">　　3．经纬纱的配置作为春夏季服用的绉纱布，要求织物轻薄，手感松软、光泽柔和。因此，纱线应以细特纱为主，纬纱粗于经纱。纬纱的捻系数可稍小。纬纱粗，有利于起绉效果，对于织造生产有利，粗纱捻度可以减小。</span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><br></span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">　　4．织物的布边、布幅</span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><br></span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">　　强捻的纬纱使织物边经承受的张力大于一般的织物，为了减小边部的断头，除采用平布的布边设计外，还应该增加布边的宽度至2cm左右。</span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><br></span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">　　绉纱布的纬向收缩率较大而加工系数又较低（最低为0.7～0.75），所以，需要增加坯布的幅宽。即成品幅宽为86.4～91.4cm（34～36英寸）时，坯布幅宽不得小于122cm（48英寸）。</span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><br></span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">　　5．绉纱布的分类</span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><br></span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">　　（1）按织物生产工艺，可以分为白织绉纱布和色织绉纱布。</span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><br></span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;（2）按纬纱捻度、捻向配置法，可分为顺纡绉纱布、花式绉纱布和双绉布。顺纡绉纱布采用同捻向纬纱织造。织物呈柳条型或波浪型。双绉布纬纱采用不同捻向配置。织物呈核桃纹、碎小绉纹。花式绉纱布纬纱采用捻度不同配置（强捻与普通捻相结合）。</span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><br></span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">　　（3）按组织分，可分为一般绉纱布、提条、提格和提花绉纱布。</span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><br></span></font></p><p style="text-align: start; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><font face="微软雅黑, Microsoft YaHei, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">　　</span></font></p></section></div>