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全部资讯   / 纱线特数对纺织工艺及织物风格的影响

纱线特数对纺织工艺及织物风格的影响

2014-05-14 11:29:57

<br><div><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  毛织物所用纱线,主要是由短纤维纺成的单纱和合股线,少量是用于装饰的化纤长丝、丝光棉纱、绢丝以及羊毛与化纤长丝合捻的夹丝纱线和花式纱线等。目前,正在研究使用变形纱、包芯纱等特殊纱线,以改善织物性能,粗纺毛织物主要采用单纱,精纺则采用股线,个别品种采用双经单纬。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  纱线特数对成品外观、质量、手感以及机械物理性能均有影响;若某一系统纱线的特数改变,则纱线在织物中的屈曲程度便发少变化。如经纱的屈曲程度随着经纱特数的降低和纬纱特数的提高而减小,但纬纱的屈曲程度则相应增大。在织物组织和相对密度相同的条件下,低特纱织物比高特纱织物表面细腻而紧密。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  一般来说,通常高特纱用以织制厚家织物。但是高档精纺织物,有的也用低特纱,通过复杂的二重或双层组织使织物紧密,厚重。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  如平纹组织的女式呢,若纱特低,则使产品外观呢面平移、细洁、纹路清晰,并且重量适宜。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  相反,若纱特高,若纱条十分均匀、色泽很好,呢面也能平整,纹路清晰,但因纱粗组织点太大,织物太厚,不但产生不出平细的风格,反而难免会有粗陋厚重的缺点。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  粗纺毛织物的纱特范围,根据不同的织物,可以为58.8~500tex(2~17公支)。粗纺毛纱与精纺毛纱不同,它含有多种特数的纤维,且纤维成束并且有较多的卷曲与较多的自由端纤维。相互缠结,具有较高的缩绒性。另外织物如用单纱织造则有利于起毛,合股线就差一些。如用多股线将更增加起毛的阻力。由此可见,纱线结构与缩绒、起毛密切相关。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  一般高档织物用62.5~100tex(10-16公支)纱,如麦尔登。中档织物100-125tex(8~10公支),如海军呢、制服呢、大衣呢。低档织物142.9~200tex(5~7公支)纱,如学生呢、大众呢、海力斯。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  利用色纱合股线和色纱嵌条线配成各种花型,使织物花型立体感强,掩盖毛粗和纱特高的决点。再加上合适的后整理,就更能改善织物风格,对于棉经毛纬的中低档产品,要求经密Pj特偏小,纬密Pw偏大。纬纱若采用低档原料,则缩绒不良,棉Pj要小,棉经纱支偏高。纬纱若宿绒性好,经纱特数可高一些。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  纱线的体积质量取决于纱线中纤维的密集程度,即与纤维种类和纺纱系统有关。纤维密变、断面形状、弹性和卷曲影响纱的膨松度。纱线越蓬松,捻度越小,加工过程中张力越小,纤维生纱线中密度就越小。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">  </p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" id="autoparagraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-family: 微软雅黑, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section></div>

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