<div><br></div><div><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　原料的选择，应从产品的风格要求、市场情况、产品的服用性能、工艺的经济合理、设备的容量以及原料的供应情况等方面综合考虑。主要包括纤维品种的选择，混纺比、长度、线密度等指标的确定。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　1．原料选配的目的</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　(1)可以合理性用原料，扩大原料资源。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　(2)降低成本，增加企业经济效益</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　(3)稳定产品质量，提高产品质量。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　2．原料选配的原则</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　遵循四性：将定性、原、生）的理可能经济性。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（1）提高羊毛的纺纱性能，在保证纱线质量的情况下，尽量降低纱线的特数。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（2）扬长避短，发挥各种纤维的特点。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（3）优毛优用，低毛低用，避免降级或提级使用。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　3．原料的合理选用</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（1）纯毛产品：纯毛产品原料的选用偏重于可纺性能。为了确保细纱条干均匀度和断头率的要求，在细纱的截面内设定了最低限度的纤维根数，精纺纱一般为30～40根。纤维品质支数愈高可纺特数愈低。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　根据产品风格的要求，应选用适当线密度的羊毛。如：纱线要求条干均匀，呢面洁净，手感柔软，滑糯的低特（高支）高档产品，一般应选用较细的羊毛。线密度细的羊毛，纱的截面内所含纤维的根数多。所纺纱线的截面积均匀。且细羊毛手感柔软，可纺20tex（50公支以上）以下的高档产品。如华达呢、凡立丁、贡呢、细哔叽、平素高档花呢等。要求手感坚挺，滑爽，富有弹性，光泽好的套装面料，就要选用中等线密度的半细毛，或混用一部分半细毛。纱线特数为15tex×2（40公支x2）左右或更高，以适合中档产品的要求。如产品风格既要求坚挺，又要求采用低特纱。则首先要考虑纺低特纱的可纺性，在生产实践中应选用较细的羊毛，并采用增加捻度和经纬密度的办法，以达到坚挺的风格要求。如果产品风格既要求高特纱，又要松软的产品。则要从经济效益和服用性能考虑，选用较粗的羊毛。并采用降低捻系数和经纬密度的方法，还可以粗细羊毛混用，或者通过柔软处理，达到柔软的风格要求。此外，素色织物的色泽对原料有一定的要求，如浅色织物要求毛条中黑花毛含量适宜，深色织物要求死捻毛和麻丝草屑等的含量尽可能小。华达呢之类呢面光洁要求高的织物，要注意毛粒含量等。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（2）混纺产品：一般混纺产品都要求具有天然纤维产品的性能，因此增加织物毛型感是羊毛与化纤说动或现化纤厂品的土要日标。为增强动织物的于感，应考您选用纤维的长度和线密度。纤维在混纺断面内的分布（径向分布）规律是：细而长的纤维较多分布在纱的内层，粗而短的纤维较多分布在纱的外层。因此为增加织物毛感，应选用特数比羊毛略低，长度比羊毛稍长的化纤。这样羊毛纤维则将多数排列在纱表，增加织物手感，同时化纤能较多排列在纱的中心，可增加织物强力并减少化纤起球的机会。下面重点介绍几大类混纺产品。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　①毛涤混纺：毛涤混纺可改善产品的服用性能，如折皱回复性，折痕保持性，热稳定性.防缩性，耐磨性等。如果产品中涤纶占50％以上，其各方面性能最好。因此混纺比例可定为羊毛45％，涤纶55％。另外对既定的成品纤维含量，还要考虑在加工过程中不同原料的落毛变化，有时需要适当调整投料比例。如成品要求混纺比为羊毛45％，涤纶55％，由于羊毛的落毛率较高，所以在投料时羊毛占47％-50％，涤纶为50％-53％。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　为使精纺织物基本保持毛感且又能提高强力，采用涤纶20％羊毛80％的混纺比。粗纺花呢、法兰绒等涤纶占30％、35％、50％。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　②毛粘混纺：粘纤比羊毛廉价得多，在羊毛中混人30％以内的粘纤，对织物的毛型感影响小，特别是高特羊毛和粘纤混纺，可明显降低纺纱特数并改善织物外观，同时使织物手感柔软。目前，毛粘混纺产品常用30％粘70％毛。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　由于粘纤缩绒性差，易折皱，故粗纺重缩绒产品中一般用25％～30％的粘胶纤维，不缩绒或轻缩绒产品可混用30％以上。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　③毛腈混纺：羊毛和腈纶混纺织物的强度和伸长率随腈纶含量的提高而略有提高，折皱回复率则随着腈纶增加而降低。一般腈纶含量在50％左右。腈纶密度较轻，延伸性接近羊毛，手感柔软，保暖性好，是最近似羊毛的化学纤维，并且染色鲜艳。但腈纶有手感发硬的缺点，适宜做起毛织物，如大衣呢、素毯或提花毛毯等。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　④毛锦混纺：锦纶强力特别高，耐磨性能好，在丰毛中混10％～20％的锦纶，可大大提高织物的强力和耐磨性，对织物毛型感影响较小。在纯毛织物中允许混人5％～8％的锦纶或涤纶，以降低纺纱特数，降低细纱断头，改善织物品质。混比过大不易加工，并影响织物风格。粗纺麦尔登、海军呢、制服呢中加入7％～15％的锦纶可使织物耐穿耐用。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　4．原料混用中应注意的问题</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　原料（包括混色原料）混合过程中，由于不同纤维机械物理性能和化学性能的不同，加工过程中原料的损耗，染色牢度，对碱的反应及缩绒性能等都不尽相同，致使成品的原料比例和色洋随之变异。因此在混料设计时，必须预先掌握它们的变化规律，以获得预期的效果。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（1）要考虑加工过程中不同原料的落毛变化和回潮问题。混合原料在梳毛加工过程中消耗最大，各种原料损耗不同，一般是短毛大于长毛，粗毛大于细毛，羊毛大于化纤。后道过程的落毛情况也一样。例如化纤与羊毛混纺时，羊毛较短，强力较差，落毛较多，所以欲使成品含70％的羊毛，30％的粘胶纤维，则在投料时应使羊毛含量多于70％。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（2）要考虑缩绒和起毛过程中纱线结构和色泽的变化。混合原料的成分不同，其缩绒性也不同。较细的纤维洗缩整理后沿纱的轴向收缩形成纱芯，部分较粗的纤维横问扩展，于农固。如羊毛与化纤混纺，因二者的缩绒性能有明显的差别，洗缩后羊毛毡化抱合暴露于织物表面，化纤则会被羊毛覆盖。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　起毛织物中的长纤维容易被拉向织物表面覆盖底色，而短纤维经多次起毛容易脱落。立绒识物受横切面折光等影响，其成品色泽与混料小样也不同。此外，在混合原料中，各种纤维的染色牢度不同，对酸碱及高温的反应不一，会产生“落色”和“沾色”，会影响成品的色泽。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（3）结合纤维的线密度、强力，耐磨和染色等性能进行拼色。深浅色拼混做混纺织物时，纺沙较困难，易沾色的纤维宜淡色。如毛涤混纺，涤纶宜淡色，羊毛染深色。素色织物中，两种纤堆的颜色差异要小，光泽好的纤维宜稍微偏深些，拼毛百分比小的纤维的色泽，宜用强度好的纤维。拼毛中的白色或淡色，不宜用静电现象严重的纤维，否则容易沾污。用粗毛形成的颜色比细毛明显。如所做产品要突出某种色泽时，应尽量染在粗毛或色泽光亮且长度较短的羊毛上。含有粗次毛的混料，粗次毛宜染不易暴露的中间色。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　耐磨性差异大的纤维混纺时，宜深浅色均混有两种纤维如粘锦混纺，若采用白色锦纶和黑色粘胶纤维相混，则长期穿着后，粘胶纤维局部磨损，结果只呈现锦纶颜色。如果锦、粘均是黑白对半，则可避免因局部磨损而变色的现象。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; 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