<section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><section data-role="paragraph" class="_135editor" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　天然麻织物粗犷、挺括、透气性好，具有独特的优点，在国内外市场享有盛名。但由于纯麻原料的局限性，以其他原料代替麻纤维，开发设计仿麻织物是纺织行业设计人员研究的课题之一。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　一、化纤仿麻织物主要结构参数设计</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（一）原料的选配</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　开发充分体现麻织物效果的面料，原料选配尤为重要。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　1.麻纤维的结构特性　　麻纤维的纵面大都较平直，有横节、竖纹，单纤维较棉短，纺纱要在半脱胶下进行，故纱支较粗，条干不匀率较高，呈现竹节状。因此选用涤纶低弹丝、涤纶竹节丝、涤纶不规则牵伸丝（理化丝、双色丝）、涤纶竹节纱、涤纶疙瘩纱等原料，其外观接近麻纤维纱，仿麻效果较为理想。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　2.染整处理后的麻粒效应　由于麻纤维只含60%~80%的纤维素和半纤维素，含有比棉多的木质素、果胶、脂肪及蜡质灰分和糖类物质，其染色较棉纤维困难，匀染性也较棉纤维差，大多染浅色，经后处理后外观呈现麻粒状效应。故可选用以下原料：原液丝和普通丝的组合丝；普通涤纶丝和涤纶改性丝、异形丝组合丝；涤纶与腈纶、锦纶、丙纶等组合丝或复合丝；涤纶DTY丝与FDT丝或FDT丝的组合丝。通过加捻染色处理后产生的麻粒效应，使其外观粗犷，从而达到仿麻效果。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　3.仿麻原丝的纤度及截面形状　　涤纶长丝仿麻时，原丝线密度一般为135~300旦，丝素的单丝根数为24~48F；截面形状为六叶、八叶等异型丝。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（二）纱线设计</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　为了充分体现麻织物的效果，仿麻织物的经纬纱应选用各种花式（色）线。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　1．利用原料的特性和专用设备制成花式线</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（1）大肚纱（疙瘩纱）的制作。利用专用花式捻丝机，通过控制两根纱线的输出速度形成大肚纱。最好再用一根固线和上述花式线加捻，使饰线形成的圈结效果在芯线上得以固定。一般芯线可用长丝，饰线可用短纤维纱线。这种花式线一般用做纬线。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（2）竹节线（结子线）的制作。可以利用专用花式捻丝机制作，一般做纬线。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　还可利用一般捻丝机制作。如用高收缩丝和其他丝进行并捻，制成的织物经后处理后因高收缩丝缩率大于其他丝，形成了竹节效应。通常其他丝最好用膨体纱或变形丝，线密度要大于高收缩丝2～3倍以上，这样能更好体现竹节效果。这种花式线既可做经线也可做纬线，竹节的大小可通过调节网络度来控制。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（3）螺旋线的制作。可用两根粗细不同的丝加捻形成。两根丝的线密度相差愈大，螺旋效果愈理想。制作时可两根丝线并合后同时加捻，也可细的丝线先加一定捻度，再和粗的丝并合后反向加捻（捻度要大于第一次加捻的捻度）。后一种方式形成的花式线较第一种方式效果好，如果其中一根用色线，效果更好。这种花式线可在一般捻丝机上制作。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　2．利用色彩形成花色效果</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（1）利用色纱。上述三种方法中如丝线的组合采用不同色彩，则既可形成花式效果，又可形成花色效果。如：绍兴地区曾流行一种格子麻，其经纬向都用111dte低弹涤丝和75dtex黑色涤丝并合加捻，采用22斜纹组成形成的暗格，成品染成深咖啡色，仿麻效果较（2）利用原料的染色性能形成花色效果。常规涤纶纤维由于结晶度、取向度较高，极性较小，所以染色性差，且可使用的染料种类少。阳离子可染涤纶（Cationnic Dyeabler，以下简称CDP）纤维，则是一种易染纤维。因此可利用CDP纤维的染色特性和常规涤纶纤维并捻交织，制成花色线，使织物形成双色、多色或留白的效果。按其染色条件来分，CDP有两种，即高温高压型和常温常压型。如CDP纤维和普通涤纶纤维并捻交织形成的织物，若需双色效应，则选择高温高压型的CDP纤维，用分散染料和阳离子染料同一浴法高温高压染色；若需织物呈现留白效果，则选择常温常压型CDP纤维，染色时可单独用阳离子染料常温常压染 CD纤维，而普通涤纶纤维留白。例如某一仿麻织物，经丝为：甲经[167dtex(C(CDP35%+＋普涤65%)+111dtextex低弹涤纶］网络，乙经［167dtex（CDP65％＋ 普通涤纶35%)]×2网络：纬丝为：甲纬同甲经，乙纬同乙经；成品经密 150根/10cm 成品纬密130根/10cm经纬排列比为：甲经：乙经＝甲纬·乙纬=4:4。组织为平纹。织物经染色整理后，普通涤纶留白，形成格子效果，仿麻感较强。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　利用涤纶、腈纶、锦纶、丙纶等原料的不同染色性能，形成花色线，使织物呈现留白或双色效果。如涤纶低弹丝和锦纶长丝并捻织成的织物，经酸性染料染色，织物呈现留白效果；如用分散染料和酸性染料一浴染色，织物呈双色效果。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　利用同一种纤维结晶度、取向度不同，截面积不同，对染料的上染率不同，形成深浅色发果。如有一织物，经纬向都为［167dtex低弹涤纶＋111dtex POY涤丝开合加捻，成品密度为320根/10cm×220根/10cm，组织为斜纹，成品经染色后，由于POY涤丝和低弹丝的得色深浅不同，织物有麻粒效应，仿麻感较强。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　3．粗细纱线相间排列 经或纬，或经纬丝都用粗细纱线相间规则或不规则排列，可形成麻织物的效果，丝线排列循环越大，纱线粗细相差愈大，仿麻效果越好。两根粗细纱线的线密度相差一般为倍，但如果粗细差异太大，织造较困难。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　4．纱线捻度的选择 为了突出麻织物手感挺括、滑爽、有身骨的风格特征，一般仿麻织物的经纬都加中捻以上，但以不超过临界捻度的10％左右为宜。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　具体捻度的选择要根据织物原料的选用、组织结构、经纬密度的确定及风格要求而定。如平纹组织交织点多，较其他组织捻度可小些；织物的浮长增加，捻度要增加。捻度确定还立考虑织物紧度，如经纬向紧度高，经纬捻度可低些：丝线纤度细，捻度可高些等等。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（三）组织的选用</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　1．选用规则组织 平纹、斜纹等，再加上原料的配合，如配以大肚纱、竹节纱、螺旋线等，可求得较好的仿麻效果。如水洗麻织物，组织为平纹，经、纬原料组合为167x1dtex不规则牵伸丝（理化丝、双色丝）16捻／cm·经、纬均采用2Z2S排列，成品密度640×240（根/10cm），制成的织物有水洗竹节状效应，仿麻感强。</p></section><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><div style="text-align: center;"><img src="http://dayaotex-img.gz.bcebos.com/article/fffspic/tuxxfzpsj10-32.png" _src="http://dayaotex-img.gz.bcebos.com/article/fffspic/tuxxfzpsj10-32.png" data-ratio="0.7940251572327044" data-w="636" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; width: 464.444px; max-inline-size: 100%; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important; height: auto !important;"></div></span></p><p style="text-align: center; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><img src="http://dayaotex-img.gz.bcebos.com/article/fffspic/tuxxfzpsj10-33.png" _src="http://dayaotex-img.gz.bcebos.com/article/fffspic/tuxxfzpsj10-33.png" data-ratio="0.889751552795031" data-w="644" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; width: 464.444px; max-inline-size: 100%; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important; height: auto !important;"></p><p style="text-align: center; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><img src="http://dayaotex-img.gz.bcebos.com/article/fffspic/tuxxfzpsj10-34.png" _src="http://dayaotex-img.gz.bcebos.com/article/fffspic/tuxxfzpsj10-34.png" data-ratio="0.48540706605222733" data-w="651" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; width: 464.444px; max-inline-size: 100%; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important; height: auto !important;"></p><p style="text-align: center; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><img src="http://dayaotex-img.gz.bcebos.com/article/fffspic/tuxxfzpsj10-35.png" _src="http://dayaotex-img.gz.bcebos.com/article/fffspic/tuxxfzpsj10-35.png" data-ratio="0.24845679012345678" data-w="648" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; width: 464.444px; max-inline-size: 100%; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important; height: auto !important;"></p><p style="text-align: center; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br></p><p style="text-align: center; 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