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2015-04-16 10:41:00
<p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">1、定义:纺织品是在织机上由相互垂直的两个系统的纱线,按一定的规律交织而成,也就是经纬线按一定规律地相互沉浮,使织物表面形成一定的纹路和花纹,这种组织称为织物组织。</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">2、织物组织分类:</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">① 原组织:是最简单的织物组织,又称基本组织。它包括平纹组织、斜纹组织和缎纹组织三种。</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">② 小花纹组织:是由上面三种基本组织变化,联合而形成的。如山形斜纹布、急斜纹。</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">③ 复杂组织:又包括二重组织(多织成厚绒布,棉绒毯等)、起毛组织(如灯芯绒布)、毛巾组织(毛巾织物)、 双层组织(毛巾织物)和纱罗组织。</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">④ 大花纹组织:也称提长花组织,多织出花鸟鱼虫、飞禽走兽等美丽图案。</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">⑤ 缎纹组织:布表面光滑但不结实、易刮伤、易起毛。</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">3、 织物的密度:密度指织坯成品单位长度中经纱和纬纱的根数,常用10平方厘米或1平方英寸中纱线根数表示。床上用品织物常见密度:30S纱78*65,78*54,20S纱60*60,40S纱90*90、110*80、133*72,28S纱70*60,单位:根/1英寸 。</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">4、 织物的回潮率,公定重量。</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">① 回潮率=(湿重-干重)/干重×100%</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">公定回潮率:棉纱8.5%,棉布8%,涤棉纱65/35布匹3.06%,涤棉50/50,布匹4.2%</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">② 公定重量:织物在公定回潮率下的重量为公定重量。</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">二、纺织品分类:</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">1、 按用途可分为衣着用纺织品、装饰用纺织品、工业用品三大类;</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">① 衣着用纺织品包括制作服装的各种纺织面料以及缝纫线、松紧带、领衬、里衬等各种纺织辅料和针织成衣、手套、袜子等。</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">② 装饰用纺织品在品种结构、织纹图案和配色等各方面较其他纺织品更要有突出的特点,也可以说是一种工艺美术品。可分为室内用品、床上用品和户外用品,包括家居布和餐厅浴洗室用品,如:地毯、沙发套、椅子、壁毯、贴布、像罩、纺品、窗帘、毛巾、茶巾、台布、手帕等;床上用品包括床罩、床单、被面、被套、毛毯、毛巾被、枕芯、被芯、枕套等。户外用品包括人造草坪等。</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">③ 工业用纺织品使用范围广,品种很多,常见的有蓬盖布、枪炮衣、过滤布、筛网、路基布等。</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">2、 按生产方式不同分为线类、带类、绳类、机织物、纺织布等六类:</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">① 线 类:纺织纤维经纺纱加工而成纱,两根以上的纱捻合成线;</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">② 带 类:窄幅或管状织物,称为带类;</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">③ 绳 类:多股线捻合而成绳;</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">④ 机织物:采用经纬相交织造的织物称为机织物;</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">⑤ 针织物:由纱线成圈相互串套而成的织物和直接成型的衣着用品为针织物;</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">⑥ 无纺布:不经传统纺织工艺,而由纤维铺网加工处理而形成的薄片纺织,称为无纺织布。</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">三、织物的经纱或纬纱</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">各种织品都有长度和宽度,与布边平行的长度称为匹长,匹长的方向就为织物径向;与布边相垂直的长度称其幅宽,幅宽的方向为织物的纬向。在织布时,用于径向的纱为经纱,用于纬向的纱称为纬纱。</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">四、织物的缩水</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">1、织物的缩水率</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">织物的缩水率是指织物在洗涤或浸水后,织物收缩的百分数。一般来说,缩水率最大织物是合成纤维及其混纺织品,其次是毛织品、麻织品,棉织品居中,缩水较大,而最大的是粘胶纤维、人造棉、人造毛类织品。</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">2、织品产生缩水的因素:</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">① 织物的原材料不同,缩水率不同。一般来说,吸湿性大的纤维,浸水后纤维膨胀,直径增大,长度缩短,缩水率就大。如有的粘胶纤维吸水率高达13%,而合成纤维织物吸湿性差,其缩水率就小。</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">② 织物的密度不同,缩水率也不同。如经纬向密度相近,其经纬向缩水率也接近。经密度大的织品,经向缩水就大,反之,纬密大于经密的织品,纬向缩水也就大。</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">③ 织物纱支粗细不同,缩水率也不同。纱支粗的布缩水率就大,纱支细的织物缩水率就小。</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">④ 织物生产工艺不同,缩水率也不同。一般来说,织物在织造和染整过程中,纤维要拉伸多次,加工时间长,施加张力较大的织物缩水率就大,反之就小。</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">五、怎样识别织物:</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">织物的手感是人们用来鉴别织物的品质质量的一项重要内容。具体地说,用手触摸织物的感觉在心理上的反应,由于织物的品种不同,质量高低也各有差异,织物的手感效果,也就有较大区别。手感有以下几个方面:</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">①织物身骨是否挺括和松弛;②织物表面的光滑与粗糙;③织物的柔软与坚硬;④织物的薄与厚;⑤织物的冷与暖;⑥织物对皮肤有刺激与无刺少激的感觉。例如:手抚摸着真丝纺品有凉的感觉;纯毛织物有暖的感觉;手感细而平滑的确良棉织品多是高支纱织拷制成;手感粗糙的多为低支纱的织品。</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;">另外,人们还可借助力的作用,用手拉伸,抓纹等动作,再通过眼的观察,手的感觉,可以判断织物的弹性、强度、抗皱性及纤维类别等。但总的来说,手感是选购面料和服装时最重要的手段。</p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p><p style="margin: 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; line-height: 24px; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font-family: simsun; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important; word-wrap: break-word !important;"><br></p>