<section data-role="outer" class="article135" label="edit by 135editor"><section data-id="101251" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, &quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;, &quot;PingFang SC&quot;, &quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class="_135editor"><section style="margin: 10px auto; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 13px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; background: rgb(223, 239, 254); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; display: flex; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 1em 1em 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section data-autoskip="1" style="margin: 0px; padding: 1em 0px 23px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 1.5px; line-height: 1.75em; color: rgb(25, 61, 122); word-break: break-all; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">“绉”与“皱”是纺织品织造中经常出现的现象,它们在本质上是织物表面出现不规则凹凸不同现象的不同程度表示。但是正是由于这种表现程度的不同使人们对它们有着不同的对待态度,前者是人们所追求的一种现象,后者是生产中所排斥、忌讳的一种现象。</section></section><section style="margin: -13px 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; width: 1px; background: rgb(57, 117, 198); flex-shrink: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; height: 1px; overflow: hidden; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></section></section></section></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; display: flex; align-items: flex-start; justify-content: space-between; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: -43px 0px 3px 7px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; width: 13px; transform: rotate(0deg); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></section><section style="margin: -20px 7px -8px 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; width: 12px; height: 12px; background: rgb(57, 117, 198); overflow: hidden; transform: rotate(0deg); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></section></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; display: flex; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section data-width="100%" style="margin: -13px 0px 13px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; width: 100%; height: 1px; background: rgb(57, 117, 198); overflow: hidden; transform: rotate(0deg); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></section></section></section></section><section data-id="101258" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, &quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;, &quot;PingFang SC&quot;, &quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class="_135editor"><section style="margin: 10px auto; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; text-align: center; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; display: inline-block; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; display: flex; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: -1.2px -2px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; width: 40px; align-self: center; flex-shrink: 0; height: 0px; overflow: hidden; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></section><section data-brushtype="text" hm_fix="337:583" style="margin: 0px; padding: 5px 1em; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 1.5px; word-break: break-all; border-width: 2px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(57, 117, 198); color: rgb(25, 61, 122); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">一、外观特征</strong></section><section style="margin: 0px 0px -1.1px -2px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; width: 40px; align-self: center; flex-shrink: 0; height: 0px; overflow: hidden; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></section></section></section></section></section><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; caret-color: red; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">绉(皱)现象是织物表面的不规则凹凸不平现象,当这些凹凸不平程度比较小,表现得比较细腻均匀时,称之为“绉”现象,这种现象在外观上给人一种微波的感觉,容易被视觉接受,特别是用这种织物做夏季的贴身服装时,可以使平时的衣服与皮肤的面接触变为点接触,给人一种清凉舒适的感觉,所以,这种绉现象是人们在生产生活中所追求的。</span><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">当这些凹凸不平表现得程度比较大、比较粗糙,并且不能均匀细腻的分布时,称之为“皱”现象。该种现象的布匹一般归结为织造的次品,是生产生活中所避免的。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><section data-id="101258" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, &quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;, &quot;PingFang SC&quot;, &quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class="_135editor"><section style="margin: 10px auto; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; text-align: center; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; display: inline-block; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; display: flex; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: -1.2px -2px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; width: 40px; align-self: center; flex-shrink: 0; height: 0px; overflow: hidden; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></section><section data-brushtype="text" hm_fix="337:583" style="margin: 0px; padding: 5px 1em; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 1.5px; word-break: break-all; border-width: 2px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(57, 117, 198); color: rgb(25, 61, 122); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">二、起绉(皱)机理</strong></section><section style="margin: 0px 0px -1.1px -2px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; width: 40px; align-self: center; flex-shrink: 0; height: 0px; overflow: hidden; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></section></section></section></section></section><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">起绉(皱)的原因是由于构成织物的纱线之间或者同一根纱线的不同部位所具有不同的内应力,从而导致了纱线的缩率和扭曲的不一致,从而在织物表面表现出来绉(皱)现象。其主要机理就是由于纱线的拉伸、加捻(考虑其定型后是否彻底消除捻应力)、以及纱线之间的挤压使纱线内部产生的不同内应力所造成。从另一种角度考虑,织物中的纱线的屈曲状态可以分为理想状态和非理想状态两种情况,当织物中纱线的交织屈曲状态全部为理想状态时,织物表面表现平整;当织物的交织屈曲状态全部为非理想状态时表现为绉现象;当织物的纱线表现为理想屈曲状态和非理想屈曲状态没有规律的出现时,则表现为皱现象。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">要想消除纱线的内应力主要有两种手段:一是使纱线自然松弛,内应力逐渐自然消失。另一种是通过定型的方法,在一定的温度、湿度条件下、在一定外力条件下,使纤维大分子重新排列,从而消除纱线的内应力。<br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></span></p><section data-id="101258" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, &quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;, &quot;PingFang SC&quot;, &quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class="_135editor"><section style="margin: 10px auto; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; text-align: center; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; display: inline-block; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; display: flex; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: -1.2px -2px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; width: 40px; align-self: center; flex-shrink: 0; height: 0px; overflow: hidden; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></section><section data-brushtype="text" hm_fix="337:583" style="margin: 0px; padding: 5px 1em; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 1.5px; word-break: break-all; border-width: 2px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(57, 117, 198); color: rgb(25, 61, 122); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">三、绉现象的获得</strong></section><section style="margin: 0px 0px -1.1px -2px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; width: 40px; align-self: center; flex-shrink: 0; height: 0px; overflow: hidden; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></section></section></section></section></section><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">由于绉织物的优美外观和作为夏季面料的清凉特点,人们在生产生活中人为地去追求这种织物,在原材料、生产工艺、组织搭配和后整理的各个方面进行改造去获得该织物。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><section data-tools="135编辑器" data-id="97836" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, &quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;, &quot;PingFang SC&quot;, &quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class="_135editor"><section style="margin: 10px auto; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; text-align: left; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; display: inline-block; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 6px 1.5em; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; background-color: rgb(230, 242, 248); border-top-right-radius: 20px; border-bottom-right-radius: 20px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; text-align: center; letter-spacing: 3px; font-size: 16px; color: rgb(234, 245, 251); text-shadow: rgb(57, 117, 198) 1px 1px, rgb(57, 117, 198) 1px -1px, rgb(57, 117, 198) 1px -1px, rgb(57, 117, 198) -1px 1px, rgb(57, 117, 198) -1px -1px, rgb(57, 117, 198) 0px 1.4px, rgb(57, 117, 198) 0px -1.4px, rgb(57, 117, 198) -1.4px 0px, rgb(57, 117, 198) 1.4px 0px, 2px 0px, rgb(143, 171, 176) 0px 3px, rgb(143, 171, 176) 0px 3px, rgb(143, 171, 176) 0px 2px, rgb(143, 171, 176) 0px 2px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong data-brushtype="text" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">3.1 原材料的差异</strong></section></section></section></section></section><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">利用原材料的特殊性能,主要是利用原材料的弹性差异来进行织造,主要采用不同弹性的纬纱,比如,在相同棉经纱的前提下,采用棉纱和棉包氨纶包芯纱间隔交替的作为纬纱,这样在相同的投纬力度下,纬纱的伸长程度不同,前者伸长相对于后者要小得多,所以形成织物后两种不同的纬纱要有不同的回缩程度,由于这种回缩程度的差异,使表面便显出绉现象。</span></p><section data-tools="135编辑器" data-id="97836" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, &quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;, &quot;PingFang SC&quot;, &quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class="_135editor"><section style="margin: 10px auto; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; text-align: left; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; display: inline-block; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 6px 1.5em; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; background-color: rgb(230, 242, 248); border-top-right-radius: 20px; border-bottom-right-radius: 20px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; text-align: center; letter-spacing: 3px; font-size: 16px; color: rgb(234, 245, 251); text-shadow: rgb(57, 117, 198) 1px 1px, rgb(57, 117, 198) 1px -1px, rgb(57, 117, 198) 1px -1px, rgb(57, 117, 198) -1px 1px, rgb(57, 117, 198) -1px -1px, rgb(57, 117, 198) 0px 1.4px, rgb(57, 117, 198) 0px -1.4px, rgb(57, 117, 198) -1.4px 0px, rgb(57, 117, 198) 1.4px 0px, 2px 0px, rgb(143, 171, 176) 0px 3px, rgb(143, 171, 176) 0px 3px, rgb(143, 171, 176) 0px 2px, rgb(143, 171, 176) 0px 2px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong data-brushtype="text" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">3.2 织造工艺</strong></section></section></section></section></section><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">通过织造工艺来获得绉织物也是人们经常采用的一种方法,主要是通过改变经纱或纬纱的不同张力。通过采用两个送经轴进行送经,并且使两个送经轴上的经纱间隔交替的传入综丝,两个经轴采用不同的送经量从而控制经纱的张力,这样织物下机后相邻经纱会产生不同程度的收缩,从而得到绉效应;同理也可以采用不同的投纬力度,相邻两根纬纱采用不同的投纬力,这样下机后的织物纬纱会产生不同程度的收缩,而达到绉效应。</span></p><section data-tools="135编辑器" data-id="97836" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, &quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;, &quot;PingFang SC&quot;, &quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class="_135editor"><section style="margin: 10px auto; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; text-align: left; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; display: inline-block; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 6px 1.5em; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; background-color: rgb(230, 242, 248); border-top-right-radius: 20px; border-bottom-right-radius: 20px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; text-align: center; letter-spacing: 3px; font-size: 16px; color: rgb(234, 245, 251); text-shadow: rgb(57, 117, 198) 1px 1px, rgb(57, 117, 198) 1px -1px, rgb(57, 117, 198) 1px -1px, rgb(57, 117, 198) -1px 1px, rgb(57, 117, 198) -1px -1px, rgb(57, 117, 198) 0px 1.4px, rgb(57, 117, 198) 0px -1.4px, rgb(57, 117, 198) -1.4px 0px, rgb(57, 117, 198) 1.4px 0px, 2px 0px, rgb(143, 171, 176) 0px 3px, rgb(143, 171, 176) 0px 3px, rgb(143, 171, 176) 0px 2px, rgb(143, 171, 176) 0px 2px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong data-brushtype="text" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">3.3 组织设计</strong></section></section></section></section></section><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">在生产过程中人们总结出各种能产生绉效应的组织,通过不同组织的搭配调节来获得绉效应。此种方法比较简便,只需在组织搭配上下点功夫就可以了。经常使用的绉组织主要有以下几种。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><section data-tools="135编辑器" data-id="89202" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, &quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;, &quot;PingFang SC&quot;, &quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class="_135editor"><section style="margin: 10px auto; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; display: inline-block; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section data-brushtype="text" data-width="100%" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; width: 100%; font-size: 18px; height: 40px; line-height: 40px; border-bottom: 2px solid rgb(30, 28, 28); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 15px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">3.3.1 增点法绉组织</span></section><section data-width="100%" style="margin: 1px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; width: 100%; border-top: 1px solid rgb(30, 28, 28); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></section></section></section><p style="margin-bottom: 15px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">此种绉组织主要以原组织或变化组织为基础,然后按另一种组织的规律增加组织点构成绉组织。例如在平纹的基础上按照5/2纬面缎纹组织的规律增加组织点(如图1所示)即可得到相应的绉组织效应。</span></p><section data-tools="135编辑器" data-id="89202" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, &quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;, &quot;PingFang SC&quot;, &quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class="_135editor"><section style="margin: 10px auto; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; display: inline-block; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section data-brushtype="text" data-width="100%" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; width: 100%; font-size: 18px; height: 40px; line-height: 40px; border-bottom: 2px solid rgb(30, 28, 28); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 15px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">3.3.2 移绘法绉组织</span></section><section data-width="100%" style="margin: 1px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; width: 100%; border-top: 1px solid rgb(30, 28, 28); height: 1px; overflow: hidden; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></section></section></section><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">通过对两种不同组织的互相搭配调节。可以将一种组织的经纱(或纬纱)插入到另一组织的经纱(或纬纱)之间。这种经纬纱插入可以按照1∶1的比例插入,也可以按照其他的排列比。例如,将2/2经重平和1/2右斜纹组织按照1∶1的比例移绘后得到的组织图如图2所示,调整后的该组织在日常的生产中经常被用来加工绉组织。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><section data-tools="135编辑器" data-id="97836" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, &quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;, &quot;PingFang SC&quot;, &quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class="_135editor"><section style="margin: 10px auto; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; text-align: left; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; display: inline-block; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 6px 1.5em; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; background-color: rgb(230, 242, 248); border-top-right-radius: 20px; border-bottom-right-radius: 20px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; text-align: center; letter-spacing: 3px; font-size: 16px; color: rgb(234, 245, 251); text-shadow: rgb(57, 117, 198) 1px 1px, rgb(57, 117, 198) 1px -1px, rgb(57, 117, 198) 1px -1px, rgb(57, 117, 198) -1px 1px, rgb(57, 117, 198) -1px -1px, rgb(57, 117, 198) 0px 1.4px, rgb(57, 117, 198) 0px -1.4px, rgb(57, 117, 198) -1.4px 0px, rgb(57, 117, 198) 1.4px 0px, 2px 0px, rgb(143, 171, 176) 0px 3px, rgb(143, 171, 176) 0px 3px, rgb(143, 171, 176) 0px 2px, rgb(143, 171, 176) 0px 2px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong data-brushtype="text" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">3.4 后整理</strong></section></section></section></section></section><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">该种方法使用也比较普遍,就是通过后整理的方法来获得绉效应。即在后整理过程中采用折皱整理、热轧整理、水洗绉整理等先进工艺和先进设备来得到最后的绉效果。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><section data-id="101258" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, &quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;, &quot;PingFang SC&quot;, &quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class="_135editor"><section style="margin: 10px auto; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; text-align: center; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; display: inline-block; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; display: flex; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: -1.2px -2px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; width: 40px; align-self: center; flex-shrink: 0; height: 0px; overflow: hidden; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></section><section data-brushtype="text" hm_fix="337:583" style="margin: 0px; padding: 5px 1em; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 1.5px; word-break: break-all; border-width: 2px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(57, 117, 198); color: rgb(25, 61, 122); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">四、真丝特有的绉效应</strong></section><section style="margin: 0px 0px -1.1px -2px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; width: 40px; align-self: center; flex-shrink: 0; height: 0px; overflow: hidden; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></section></section></section></section></section><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">由于真丝的特殊结构,它除了具有以上所介绍的集中起皱方法外,本身还具有其特有的起皱方法。蚕丝有丝素和丝胶两部分组成,而且一般的厂丝都是没有脱胶的,这样的丝线加捻定型后,再经过脱胶处理,加捻后的纱线,特别是加强捻后的纱线会产生一种退捻的趋势,利用这个特性,真丝织物就会更加容易获得绉效应。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">经丝采用无捻或者弱捻丝(≤10捻/cm),纬丝用两根或多根单丝并合后加强捻(每厘米20捻以上,一般为22～28捻/cm)。分左捻和右捻两种,并用两根左捻丝和两根右捻丝交替织入,织物组织为平纹。当织物一经精炼以后,由于丝线左右向扭转力的相互作用,使绸面具有皱纹效果,称为双绉。顺纡绉是经丝不加捻或者加低捻,纬丝采用一顺向的强捻丝,织物精炼后因丝线产生一个方向的扭转力,从而使织物的皱折增大,皱纹明显。</span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><section data-id="101258" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, &quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;, &quot;PingFang SC&quot;, &quot;Hiragino Sans GB&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei UI&quot;, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" class="_135editor"><section style="margin: 10px auto; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; text-align: center; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; display: inline-block; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; display: flex; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><section style="margin: -1.2px -2px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; width: 40px; align-self: center; flex-shrink: 0; height: 0px; overflow: hidden; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></section><section data-brushtype="text" hm_fix="337:583" style="margin: 0px; padding: 5px 1em; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 1.5px; word-break: break-all; border-width: 2px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(57, 117, 198); color: rgb(25, 61, 122); overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">五、结语</strong></section><section style="margin: 0px 0px -1.1px -2px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; width: 40px; align-self: center; flex-shrink: 0; height: 0px; overflow: hidden; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"></section></section></section></section></section><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><br></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; clear: both; min-height: 1em; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-size: 17px; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; letter-spacing: 0.544px; text-align: justify; line-height: 27.2px; widows: 1; font-family: -apple-system-font, BlinkMacSystemFont, Arial, sans-serif; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;" align="justify"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; outline: 0px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 14px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">“绉”与“皱”是两种不同的现象,日常生活中我们避免“皱”而追求“绉”。我们会尽量控制纱线性能的差异性来保证织成织物的平整性,避免起皱现象的产生。同时,也会认为可通过在材料、工艺、组织、后整理等方面采取一定的措施或者利用一些特殊原材料的特殊性能来获得相应的绉效应。总之,我们的日常生产生活中总是伴随着弃“皱”求“绉”现象。</span></p><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph"><p><br></p></section></section>