<section data-role="outer" class="article135" label="edit by 135editor"><p style="line-height: 2em;text-align:justify;"><br></p><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　氨纶弹力织物可以在有梭织机、剑杆织机和喷气织机上织造。不论用何种织机织造，对织造工艺都有着严格的要求。据经验，中厚型卡其类织物采用剑杆织机织造比较好，可使布面丰满、手感好；而细薄型府绸类织物用喷气织机织造独具优势；而有梭织机在氨纶色织布的织造上应用较广。氨纶弹力织物织造生产时应注意以下要点。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　1．应保证经纱和纬纱的张力符合织造要求 经弹织物或经纬双向弹力织物还要特别注意上机张力的配置，因上机张力的大小直接影响着织物的下机缩率。一般，细特（高支）纱的上机张力配置为17.6～19.6cN（18～20g），中特（中支）纱为19.6～21.6cN（20～22g）。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　要求纬纱有足够的、均匀一致的张力，并在织造时使纬纱处于伸长状态，可使其张力接近外包纤维的伸长极限，或拉到弹性伸长的95％。有梭织造时，为使梭内纱线完全伸直而没有卷缩，常采取在梭子内腔粘贴或放置毛皮或尼龙丝的方法。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　尽可能采用间接纬纱织制纬弹织物，并保持低而均匀的卷纬张力（芯丝78dtex 卷纬张力约14.7cN，15.6dtex卷纬张力约29.4cN）。织造时要采取大引纬张力，在梭子出口和纬管之间加装一个可调试张力控制器，使包芯纱在整个送纬过程中拉伸至伸直状态。引纬张力的大小要根据包芯纱的弹力特性来确定，加强织机机台间的经纱张力以及梭子间引纬张力的检查和管理，使张力差异和坯布幅宽差异保持在织物的公差范围内。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　2．根据织物的风格要求设计织造工艺参数 织造工艺参数的配置既要考虑织物的布面效应，又要考虑降低断头，提高织造效率。如在1511型布机上织造（29.2tex9.2tex +44dtex) ~(19.4tex+44dtex）的双向弹力细布时，开口时间确定为230mm，投梭时间为215mm，投梭力为288mm（内侧）和285mm（外侧），后梁比胸梁低4mm。又如，在台湾906型益进剑杆织机上织造经纱为（64tex＋78dtex）的中厚型织物时，综平时间确定为295°，引纬时间为69°，开口高度为33mm，后梁高度为120mm。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　在津田驹ZA205型喷气织机上织造粘棉交织弹力直贡缎时，采用横贡组织反织，为保证反面布面丰满，后梁位置应略低于织口，形成下层经纱张力小于上层经纱张力的不等张力梭口。具有弹性的纬纱引纬气压不能太低，否则易产生纬缩疵布，但气压过高又会吹散纬纱形成露纱。因此，主喷气压为0.34MPa，辅喷气压为0.38MPa比较理想。织造时应注意开口清晰度，减少纬停，经位置线可参考同规格的棉织物，采用低后梁、迟开口、中张力；适当加大开口量，以减少断经，利于引纬，提高织机效率。</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　</p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" id="autoparagraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; 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