<p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（一）原料选择</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　原料的选择与合理搭配是产品设计极为重要的环节，原料选择时应考虑原料特性、产品风格、纺织染加工等多方面的因素。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　1．原料特性与原料选用 重缩绒产品选用细度均匀，纤维卷曲多，缩绒性好的原料。花式、大路产品选用较细长，颜色较白，光泽较好的原料。大衣呢、女式呢、麦尔登、薄型法兰绒等高档产品，选用品质支数60～66支改良毛或一级毛；起毛、圈形大衣呢及部分花式产品，选用品质支数48～56支改良毛；海军呢、制服呢、粗花呢等中档产品，选用二级、三级毛；毛毯、起毛大衣呢、海力斯、粗服呢等产品，可使用四级毛。法兰绒、大众呢、粗花呢多用副次原料，用精梳短毛织制粗纺呢绒，绒面比正常散毛好。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　2．产品风格、质量要求与原料选用 粗纺有不缩绒（或轻缩绒）、缩绒和拉毛产品三大类。多数不缩绒的花色产品，可选择细度较差的羊毛或部分化纤。缩绒产品必须选用缩绒性好的纤维，可适当掺用精梳短毛和下脚料。拉毛产品强调纤维的强力和长度。高档产品可选用山羊绒、马海毛、驼绒、牦牛毛等动物纤维。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　麦尔登呢面细洁紧密，一般选用品质支数60支以上毛或一级国毛。加入10％～20％精梳短毛，或细支再生毛，缩绒后呢面丰满。加10％以内的锦纶，呢面耐磨性增强。在不影响呢面与缩绒性的条件下，可混用25％～30％的粘胶纤维。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　海军呢呢面不如麦尔登细洁，一般选用一、二级毛，允许有少量死抢毛。为了增加呢面丰满度，通常加入10％～20％左右的精梳短毛；为增加耐磨，加入少于10％的锦纶；混纺织物可加入25％～30％粘胶纤维。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　制服呢呢面紧密，可选用三、四级毛。表面有少许粗腔毛，采用缩绒、剪毛工艺，不应过多拉毛而影响身骨、牢度。加入精梳短毛、细支再生毛等能增加绒面丰满度。加10％以内的锦纶可增加强力和耐磨，混纺织物可加入30％粘胶纤维。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　海力斯手感挺实、紧密有弹性。一般多用三、四级国毛，可加少许精梳短毛。混纺时加入30％～50％粘胶纤维，弹性、身骨挺实程度不如纯毛好。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　女式呢呢面细洁柔软，主要选用细支羊毛，混纺时加入30％～50％粘胶纤维。高档女式呢可加入兔毛、羊绒等。通常以40％～80％的羊绒与细羊毛混纺较多。羊绒可用本色生产，或以紫绒染深色、青绒染中色、白绒染浅色。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　大衣呢可使用品质支数60支以上毛。顺毛大衣呢多纬向拉毛，可加入30％～50％的马海毛。立绒、顺毛及圈形大衣呢等常使用纤维粗而发光的马海毛，起白色闪光、点缀作用。黑白抢大衣呢中，马海毛用量在10％以下。短立绒和顺毛高级大衣呢可加入细度细、富有光泽的驼绒。名贵的双层大衣呢一般用80％～90％的牦牛绒与66支羊毛混纺织成。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　大众呢、学生呢呢面细洁，多使用精梳短毛或再生毛等。若精梳毛长度较短，可加入20％左右的改良毛，以保证产品弹性，混纺时加入25％～30％粘胶纤维。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　粗服呢一般为棉经、毛纬，纬纱用粗支下脚毛。为增加绒面可用再生毛、回丝等细支再用毛，加入20％～30％的三、四级毛，可增加强力，再混入20％～30％粘胶纤维，可提高服用、纺纱性能。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　法兰绒羊仔毛织物选用羊仔毛为原料，柔软、细腻、轻薄，整理时湿起毛，再烘干、剪毛，织物细腻、平整。传统条格法兰绒可采用93％的羊毛、7％的锦纶。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（二）纱线结构的选择</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　1．纱线线密度 纱线线密度对成品外观、手感、重量、后整理以及力学性能等均有影响。其选择与织物风格、原料性能和后整理有关。2．捻系数、掩度 一般情况下，纹面织物用纱的捻系数大于缩绒织物，仿麻织物用纱的捻系数大于纹面织物，纯毛纱大于混纺纱，混纺纱大于纯化纤纱，短毛含量高的纱大于短毛含量低的纱，短纤纱大于长纤纱，点子纱大于混色纱，细支纱大于粗支纱，经用纱大于纬用纱等。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　织物起毛与纱线的捻度密切相关。一般紧密织物的纱线捻度较大，起毛困难。纬纱捻度小，易于起毛。组织紧密、品质较优的纱线捻度较大，只能表面起绒毛。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　3．纱线的捻向 不同的经纬纱捻向配合，对缩绒、起毛会产生不同的影响。经纬纱捻向不同，纱线易相互缠结，易于缩绒。合股的单纱与股线捻向相同，捻度大，则缩绒性差。单纱与股线捻向相反，捻度小，易于缩绒。股线捻度大，缩绒性小；捻度小，缩绒性大。经纬纱捻向不同的织物，起出的毛平顺而均匀；捻向相同的织物，起出的毛绒，丰厚而不平顺。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（三）粗纺毛织物的密度和紧度</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　1．织物的密度和紧度 织物密度影响织物的外观、手感，如纹面织物，经密大，则身骨较好；绒面织物，纬密大，则绒面较好；密度大，不易缩绒；长缩过大，手感板硬。羊绒大衣呢要求绒面丰满，整理时采用缩绒后反复起毛、剪毛，绒毛较为丰满；纬密较大的织物绒面平整细密。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　组织相同而经纬纱线密度不同时，密度不能真正反映织物的紧密程度，应采用相对密度即紧度来评定。生产中常利用同类产品紧度的经验数据来推得密度。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　2．呢坯上机最大密度</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　3．呢坯上机密度充实率 呢坯实际上机密度与呢坯上机最大密度比值的百分率，叫做充实率，用来反映纱线在呢坯中的充实程度，用以比较不同组织织物的织造难易程度和紧密程度。由于粗纺呢坯在染整加工过程中，伸缩变化较大，因此，呢坯的紧密程度并不等于成品的紧密程度。呢坯上机密度分为特密、紧密、适中（偏紧、偏松）、较松及特松等六种，其呢坯上机密度充实率选用范围见表12-9。</span></p><p style="text-align: center; max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></span><img src="https://dayaotex-edu.fsh.bcebos.com/v1/dayaotex-edu/image.png?authorization=bce-auth-v1%2F59b7a26546d74b64bfd056b483465817%2F2023-05-31T01%3A50%3A45Z%2F-1%2F%2F446edc1985bc5668f0628f53da6b53937dc8d35a314735b5a58ce565d93e8d73" data-filename="" style="width: 25%;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br></span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　选择充实率时，应掌握：</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（1）大部分缩绒产品的呢坯上机密度在“适中”范围，海军呢、大众呢、学生呢、大衣呢可取“适中、偏紧”，法兰绒、粗花呢及深色的“偏紧”，海力斯、女式呢及中浅色可“偏松”。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（2）一般缩呢产品的经充实率比纬充实率大1％～15％，以5％～10％较多。轻缩绒露纹织物的经充实率较纬充实率大20％左右。单层起毛产品的纬充实率大于经充实率5％以上。选择充实率时，先选定经纬平均充实率，再分别确定经纬向充实率。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　4．呢坯上机密度 缩绒及拉毛程度对成品密度的影响很大。大多数产品用单股经纬纱，断头率较高，因此要合理选择上机密度。而确定上机密度时，不仅要考虑包括整理工艺在内的织物紧密程度，还应考虑呢坯上机的最大密度。通常呢坯上机的实际密度为其最大密度的80％左右，某些松结构织物的呢坯密度只有其最大密度的65％左右。呢坯上机密度＝呢坯上机最大密度x呢坯上机密度充实率。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（四）粗纺毛织物的组织</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　薄型女式呢、法兰绒、合股花呢、粗花呢及粗细支松结构等产品，均用平纹组织。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　斜纹组织在粗纺产品中应用最广。2/2斜纹组织常用于麦尔登、大众呢、海军呢、制服呢、女式呢、海力斯、粗花呢及粗服呢等。其次是2/1斜纹与3/3斜纹。女式呢、大衣呢等常采用3/1破斜纹。匹染或混色的顺毛、立绒大衣呢采用2/2破斜纹，2/2破斜纹在纹面、绒面均有应用。厚重大衣可采用3/3斜纹、4/4斜纹、3/1破斜纹、2/1斜纹等织物组织。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　缎纹组织一般用于起毛大衣呢及粗花呢等。纬面缎纹在生产丰满和紧密绒毛织物或起毛作用剧烈时，易拉掉纤维。经面缎纹起毛使纤维平伏理直，绒毛表面平整。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　变化组织可用于女式呢、粗花呢、大衣呢、经纬配色花纹以及条、格、小花纹等花式产品。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　联合组织中的条格组织、凸条组织、绉组织和蜂巢组织等能使织物具有各种形式的外观。一般用于纹面女式呢、粗花呢和粗服呢结构织物等。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　复杂组织中的二重组织、双层组织和多层组织等常用于各种大衣呢。厚织物多为较粗纱线的二重、多层织物。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　提花女式呢通常用以平纹、2/2斜纹及2/2方平为组织基础的表里交换双层组织。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（五）粗纺毛织物整理工艺</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　缩呢、起毛、剪毛及洗呢是粗纺毛织物整理的重点。呢面织物以缩绒为主；立绒、顺毛及拷花织物，则以起毛、剪毛为重点。由于织物表面风格多样，整理工艺也必须随之改变。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　1．缩呢 缩呢是粗纺毛织物整理的基础，初步奠定了产品风格。缩绒使呢坯质地紧密，厚度增加，强力提高，弹性、保暖性增强；缩呢可获得丰满、柔软的手感，改善织物外观；缩呢可固定织物的形状。纹面织物中的粗花呢，要适当轻缩，避免花纹模糊和沾色，以获得一定的身骨和外观。制服呢、麦尔登需重缩绒，使绒毛短密地覆盖在呢面上。为确保绒面丰满，制服呢可轻起毛。麦尔登要求呢面细洁耐磨，可采用缩呢→剪毛→缩呢的工艺。立绒、顺毛、拷花等起毛织物，为利于起毛，一般不重缩呢。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　2．洗呢 洗呢是改善织物光泽和颜色的关键，毛织坯经过洗呢，可使呢坯色泽鲜艳、色牢度高，体现羊毛特有的光泽、弹性，使织物手感松软、丰满，光泽柔和。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　色泽要求鲜艳的花呢或高档织物，采用洗呢→缩呢工艺；易于退色的花呢，宜中性洗、酸性缩；松结构织物，不经缩呢，洗呢时间要短；洗呢时会产生不同收缩，将影响织物纹面的清晰及手感的丰满。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　3．起毛 起毛对织物外观的影响很大，钢丝起毛的绒毛散乱，刺果起毛的绒毛顺直，干起毛绒毛蓬松，湿起毛绒毛卧伏，热水浸渍的刺果水起毛则会产生波浪形。钢丝轻度干起毛，可改善呢面织物的绒面；立绒织物中兔毛大衣呢及顺毛织物，采用逐渐加重的刺果湿起毛；一些厚重织物需钢丝湿起毛，再刺果湿起毛；剪毛、起毛联合进行，能改善起毛浓度。立绒、顺毛、拷花织物在起毛到一定程度时，剪去绒毛上较长的部分，起、剪联合进行，可获得绒毛浓密整齐的效果。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　4．剪毛 不同产品表面的绒毛有不同的要求。麦尔登和一般绒面织物必须剪除表面浮毛，防止起球；若过分剪毛，则织物表面露底。剪前应蒸刷，使浮毛疏松平顺，便于剪除。不露底的顺毛重缩织物，需剪成均匀平整的绒头，使织物表面绒面稠密、光泽均匀。色纱组成花纹或部分纹面织物，干起毛起出疏松或贴伏在织物表面的散乱纤维，然后剪毛，可使织物表面有良好的外观。</span></p><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" id="autoparagraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-family: 微软雅黑, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section>