<p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　精纺毛织物其按风格特征、品质要求，可分为以下四大类：</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　1．大路产品类： 主要包括华达呢、哔叽、啥味呢、贡呢、派力司、凡立丁、驼丝锦等。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　华达呢多为匹染产品，条染时色彩丰富、色牢度高。华达呢按原料分为全毛、混纺华达呢；按织纹分为双面（2/2）、单面（2/1）、缎背华达呢；按所用纱线分为经纬股线、单纱或股线作经、单纱作纬华达呢；按外观效果分为素色、混色、条子华达呢等。条染华达呢有混色、经纬异色、花并纱和素色之分。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　华达呢的经密显著大于纬密，纬经密度比约为0.51～0.57，斜纹纹路距离较窄，纹路清晰细密，贡子挺直饱满、条干均匀，手感滑糯、活络、丰满，有身骨和弹性，呢面光洁平整，光泽自然柔和，色泽滋润纯净、无陈旧感。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　哔叽常用的组织为2/2、2/1斜纹，纬经密度比约为0.80～0.90，斜纹纹路距离较宽。以匹染为主，色彩以素色青为主，有藏灰、蓝、咖啡、驼色等。哔叽按原料分为全毛、毛混纺和毛型化纤三种；按呢面分为光面、毛面两类，光面哔叽光洁平整，纹路清晰；毛面哔叽短毛绒浮掩呢面，斜纹清晰可见；按重量分为薄哔叽（193g/㎡以下）、中厚哔叽（194～315g／㎡）和厚哔叽（315g／㎡以上）三类。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　啥味呢有平纹、斜纹、变化斜纹等组织，以2/2右斜纹组织为主，单面或双面起绒。啥味呢按原料分为全毛、混纺两类；按外观分为素色、混色、条子、格子等；按呢面分为光面、毛面两类。光面啥味呢面光洁平整，纹路清晰；毛面啥味呢有轻绒、重绒和全绒面等，常以重绒面居多。轻绒呢面绒毛轻微，织纹略有隐蔽；重绒呢面绒毛密集，织纹模糊不清；全绒呢面绒毛粘缩，织纹难以看到。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　贡呢采用缎纹、缎纹变化或急斜纹组织，以五枚加强缎纹为主。经纬密度较大，紧密细洁。贡呢按原料分为全毛、混纺两类；按呢面纹路倾斜角不同分为直贡呢（75°以上）、横贡呢（15°左右）和斜贡呢（45°～50°左右）三类，以直贡呢较多。贡呢颜色多为素色，有黑色、蓝色、灰色、驼色以及各种闪色、夹色和混色等，以黑色为主，匹染、条染均可。贡呢呢面平整，贡路清晰，纱线条干均匀，有身骨、弹性，手感活络，光泽自然明亮，色泽纯正，边道整齐。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　派力司采用平纹组织，色泽以中灰、浅灰最多，也有混驼色、浅米色等，一般为条染混色。派力司光洁平整，不起毛，光泽自然柔和，手感滋润、滑爽、活络、挺括，轻薄而有弹性，纱线条干均匀。深浅混色形成的特殊效应，使呢面具有散布性匀细而不规则的轻微雨状丝痕条纹。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　凡立丁外观呈现针织物样的明显罗纹条，呢面呈现双根并列的急斜纹条子，斜纹角度约为63°。每组斜纹线条间距小，凹度较浅，不同组斜纹间的线条距离较大，凹度较深。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　巧克丁有匹染和条染两类，颜色多为蓝、军绿、灰色等中深色，以素色为主，也有花纱、混色等。巧克丁呢面干净，织纹清晰、顺直，不起毛，光泽自然柔和，手感活络，光滑不糙，有弹性、身骨，抗皱性能好，纱线条干均匀，无雨丝痕。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　驼丝锦采用缎纹类组织，颜色以深色为主，多用黑、深藏青、灰、紫红色等。按原料分为全毛、混纺两类；按染色方式分为匹染、条染两类，条染包括经纬异色、花并纱、混色和素色等；按织纹分为普通、格形和条形三类；按所用纱线分为精纺、粗纺和精粗纺纱交织三类。精纺驼丝锦呢面平整，织纹细致，光泽滋润，手感柔软、紧密，弹性好。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　2．花呢类： 花呢类织物一般综合运用各种构作花样的方法，使花呢呈现点子、条子、格子以及其他花型图案，多以条染为主。花呢按重量分为薄型、中厚型和厚型；按原料分为全毛、混纺花呢；按纱线分为多股纱线、花式纱线、强捻纱线、精粗交织、双组分和赛络纺纱花呢；按花型组织分为单面花呢（牙签呢）、鸟眼花呢、板司呢、海力蒙、双层花呢等。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　薄花呢一般重150～190g／㎡，常用平纹组织，采用中浅色，手感滑爽，质地轻薄；中厚花呢一般重191～289g／㎡，多用斜纹、变化斜纹或重经组织，颜色鲜艳、纯正；厚花呢一般重290g／㎡以上，多用变化组织，颜色中深，有素色、混色和花纱等。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　全毛花呢包括丝毛、羊绒、马海毛和纯毛花呢。全毛花呢光泽自然柔和，有膘光，颜色纯正，手感滑糯、活络、不板不烂，弹性和抗皱性能好。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　混纺花呢分为毛涤、毛粘、毛麻、毛棉及多种纤维混纺花呢。毛涤混纺花呢耐皱、耐穿、尺寸稳定、免烫性等优于全毛花呢，但手感丰满度、舒适度、光泽滋润性等不及全毛花呢。毛粘混纺花呢呢面平整光洁，光泽自然柔和，手感活络，弹性好，毛型感足。毛麻混纺花呢透气性好，散热性强，抗皱性强，抗起球，手感滑爽。毛棉混纺花呢具有羊毛的柔软、保暖性和棉的舒适、耐穿性。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　多股纱线花呢外表光、圆、紧，有身骨，表面有颗粒感，色彩丰富有层次感；花式纱线花呢是利用花式线构作花型与配色，使织物呈现不同的风格；强捻纱线花呢具有干爽、高弹或平滑细腻的手感风格；精粗交织花呢外观风格粗犷而不失细腻，手感丰满蓬松，柔糯而有弹性，花型清晰细洁，轻缩绒面；赛络纺纱花呢多为轻薄织物，外观毛羽少，光泽自然，手感滑糯，悬垂性好，富有弹性。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　单面花呢织物正反面外观不同，Z、S捻按一定规律排列，使呢面呈现牙签呢状细条子花型，花型立体感强，手感丰满蓬松，光滑细腻，有身骨，挺括、活络。鸟眼花呢表面均匀分布鸟眼点子，手感丰厚，外观细洁，弹性良好。板司呢结构坚实，不板不烂，有身骨和弹性，呢面平整，混色均匀，花样细巧。光面海力蒙人字纹路清晰、匀洁，织物紧密，有身骨，弹性好；毛面海力蒙呢面有均匀的绒毛，人字纹路仍然可见，手感柔软活络，弹性好。双层花呢厚实丰满。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　3．女衣呢类： 女衣呢以松结构、长浮线构成各种花型或凹凸纹样，广泛使用多种染色工艺和花式线等。呢面光洁平整，或绒面或带抢毛。利用联合与变化组织等构成纤细的几何花型，利用复杂组织构作别致多层次的花样。花型可为平素、直条、横条、格子及不规则的织纹。女衣呢重量轻，结构松，手感柔软，色彩艳丽，在原料、纱线、组织、染整工艺等方面充分运用各种技法，使女衣呢花哨、活泼、随意。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　4．其他类： 如麦司林、绉纹呢等较轻薄、柔软，洁净的呢坯，可形成风格轻盈飘逸的印花织物；如华达呢、驼丝锦、女士呢等加入弹性原料，可形成弹力织物；依靠组织的变化形成织纹清晰，手感滑爽，呢面光洁，色彩艳丽的小提花织物和图案生动，造型优美，层次丰富，配色典雅的大提花织物等。</span></p><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" id="autoparagraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-family: 微软雅黑, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section>