<section data-role="outer" class="article135" label="edit by 135editor"><section class="_135editor" data-tools="135编辑器" data-id="127783"><section style="margin: 10px auto;"><section class="box-edit" style="margin: 0 0 25px;transform-style: preserve-3d "><section style="margin:0 0 -16px;display: flex;justify-content: center;;transform: translateZ(10px);-webkit-transform: translateZ(10px);-moz-transform: translateZ(10px);-o-transform: translateZ(10px);"><section style="display: flex;justify-content: center;"><section style="flex-shrink: 0;"><section style="width: 13px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section></section><section style="font-size: 16px; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-align: center; background-color: rgb(115, 184, 255); display: flex; align-items: center; padding: 0px 6px;"><p style="color: #000000; font-size: 14px; line-height: 2em;"><span style="font-size:17px;"><strong class="135brush" data-brushtype="text">三、粗纺毛织物的规格设计及上机计算</strong></span></p></section><section style="flex-shrink: 0;"><section style="width: 13px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section></section></section></section><section style="background-color: rgb(249, 249, 249); padding: 25px 15px 13px; border-bottom: 1px solid rgb(255, 205, 98);"><section data-autoskip="1" class="135brush" style="text-align: justify; line-height: 1.75em; letter-spacing: 1.5px; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);"><p style="line-height:2em"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">粗纺毛织物是以粗梳毛纱织制而成的织物。粗梳毛纱多为单纱，纱较粗，约400～62.5tex（2.5～16公支），强力低，绒毛多，故织物手感柔软、蓬松丰厚。粗纺毛织物表面风格多样，有纹面织物、呢面织物、绒面织物和松结构织物。</span></p></section></section></section></section></section><section class="_135editor" data-role="title" data-tools="135编辑器" data-id="127791"><section style="margin: 10px auto; display: flex; justify-content: center; align-items: flex-end;"><section style="display: flex;justify-content: center;"><section style="transform-style: preserve-3d;"><section style="display: flex;justify-content: flex-start;margin: 0 0 -6px;"><section style="width: 70%; height: 10px; background-color: rgb(255, 205, 98); transform: rotate(-8deg); overflow: hidden; max-width: 70% !important;" data-width="70%"></section></section><section style="font-size: 16px; color: rgb(61, 61, 61); text-align: center; background-color: rgb(244, 244, 244); padding: 4px 10px; transform: translateZ(10px);"><p style="line-height:2em"><span style="color: #000000; font-size: 15px;"><strong class="135brush" data-brushtype="text">（一）粗纺毛织物主要结构参数设计</strong></span></p></section></section><section style="flex-shrink: 0;margin: 10px 0 0px -25px;z-index: 9;"><section class="assistant" style="width: 35px;"><img class="assistant" style="width: 100%; display: block; vertical-align: inherit; max-width: 100% !important;" src="https://bcn.135editor.com/files/images/editor_styles/793ff430ac4d50473ba9dd73930951ae.png" data-width="100%" draggable="false"></section></section></section></section></section><section class="_135editor" data-tools="135编辑器" data-id="127781"><section style="margin: 10px auto;"><section class="box-edit" style="margin: 0 0 20px;"><section style="display: flex;justify-content: flex-start;transform-style: preserve-3d "><section style="flex-shrink:0;"><section style="width: 15px; height: 100%; background-color: rgb(115, 184, 255); overflow: hidden;"></section></section><section style="margin: 0 -10px;display: flex;align-items: center;transform: translateZ(10px);-webkit-transform: translateZ(10px);-moz-transform: translateZ(10px);-o-transform: translateZ(10px);"><section style="display: flex;align-items: center;transform-style: preserve-3d"><section style="width: 6px; height: 6px; border-radius: 100%; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 22px; height: 4px; background-color: rgb(255, 206, 103); border-radius: 5px; margin: 0px -4px; transform: translateZ(10px); overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 6px; height: 6px; border-radius: 100%; overflow: hidden;"></section></section></section><section style="font-size: 16px; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-align: center; background-color: rgb(115, 184, 255); padding: 4px 10px 4px 19px;"><p style="line-height:2em"><span style="color: #000000; font-size: 14px;"><strong class="135brush" data-brushtype="text">1．原料的选择</strong></span></p></section></section></section></section></section><section class="_135editor" data-tools="135编辑器" data-id="127782"><section style="margin: 10px auto;"><section class="box-edit" style="margin: 0 0 25px;"><section style="margin:0 0 10px;display: flex;justify-content: flex-start;"><section style="display: flex;align-items: flex-end;"><section><section style="font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 1.5px; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); background-color: rgb(115, 184, 255); width: 35px; height: 35px; display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center;"><p style="color: #000000; font-size: 14px; line-height: 2em;"><strong>0</strong><strong class="autonum" data-original-title="" title="">1</strong></p></section></section><section style="background-color: rgb(244, 244, 244); padding: 0px 4px;"><section style="display: flex;justify-content: space-between;"><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section></section><section style="font-size: 16px; color: rgb(61, 61, 61); text-align: center; padding: 5px 10px;"><p style="line-height:2em"><span style="color: #000000; font-size: 14px;"><strong class="135brush" data-brushtype="text">粗纺毛织物使用的原料种类</strong></span></p></section></section></section></section><section data-autoskip="1" class="135brush" style="text-align: justify; line-height: 1.75em; letter-spacing: 1.5px; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); background-color: transparent;"><p style="line-height:2em"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">粗纺毛织物使用原料范围极为广泛，所有棉、毛、丝、麻、化纤等纺织纤维，几乎都能供粗纺应用。更突出的是粗纺毛织物不仅使用新原料，还可利用再生纤维（包括生产过程中的回丝、落毛、下脚以及旧织物回弹毛等），从而能充分利用资源，提高社会经济效益。</span></p></section></section></section></section><section class="_135editor" data-tools="135编辑器" data-id="127782"><section style="margin: 10px auto;"><section class="box-edit" style="margin: 0 0 25px;"><section style="margin:0 0 10px;display: flex;justify-content: flex-start;"><section style="display: flex;align-items: flex-end;"><section><section style="font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 1.5px; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); background-color: rgb(115, 184, 255); width: 35px; height: 35px; display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center;"><p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px; line-height: 2em;"><strong>0</strong><strong class="autonum" data-original-title="" title="" data-num="2">2</strong></p></section></section><section style="background-color: rgb(244, 244, 244); padding: 0px 4px;"><section style="display: flex;justify-content: space-between;"><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section></section><section style="font-size: 16px; color: rgb(61, 61, 61); text-align: center; padding: 5px 10px;"><p style="line-height:2em"><span style="color: #000000; font-size: 14px;"><strong class="135brush" data-brushtype="text">混料设计</strong></span></p></section></section></section></section><section data-autoskip="1" class="135brush" style="text-align: justify; line-height: 1.75em; letter-spacing: 1.5px; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); background-color: transparent;"><p style="line-height:2em"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">粗纺产品混用的原料比较复杂。</span></p><p><br></p><p style="line-height:2em"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">①混合原料在梳毛加工过程中消耗量大，各种原料损耗不一。一般，短毛大于长毛，粗毛大于细毛，羊毛大于化纤。</span></p><p><br></p><p style="line-height:2em"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">②混合原料成分不同、粗细不同，其缩绒性也不同。洗缩整理后，较细的纤维沿纱轴向收缩形成纱芯，较粗的纤维却横向扩展、浮于表面，成品外观色泽也随之变化。</span></p><p><br></p><p style="line-height:2em"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">③羊毛与化学纤维混纺，因其缩绒性能有明显差别，洗缩后羊毛毡化抱合暴露于织物表面，化纤被羊毛覆盖，在织物内层，成品色泽会起变化。</span></p><p><br></p><p style="line-height:2em"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">④混合原料中，各种纤维因其染色牢度不一，对酸碱及高温反应不一，产生“落色”与“沾色”，影响成品色泽变化。</span></p><p><br></p><p style="line-height:2em"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">⑤起毛产品中的长纤维容易被拉向织物表面覆盖底色，而短纤维经多次起毛，容易脱落；立绒织物受横切面折光影响，其成品色泽与混料小样也迥然不同。</span></p></section></section></section></section><section class="_135editor" data-tools="135编辑器" data-id="127781"><section style="margin: 10px auto;"><section class="box-edit" style="margin: 0 0 20px;"><section style="display: flex;justify-content: flex-start;transform-style: preserve-3d "><section style="flex-shrink:0;"><section style="width: 15px; height: 100%; background-color: rgb(115, 184, 255); overflow: hidden;"></section></section><section style="margin: 0 -10px;display: flex;align-items: center;transform: translateZ(10px);-webkit-transform: translateZ(10px);-moz-transform: translateZ(10px);-o-transform: translateZ(10px);"><section style="display: flex;align-items: center;transform-style: preserve-3d"><section style="width: 6px; height: 6px; border-radius: 100%; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 22px; height: 4px; background-color: rgb(255, 206, 103); border-radius: 5px; margin: 0px -4px; transform: translateZ(10px); overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 6px; height: 6px; border-radius: 100%; overflow: hidden;"></section></section></section><section style="font-size: 16px; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-align: center; background-color: rgb(115, 184, 255); padding: 4px 10px 4px 19px;"><p style="line-height:2em"><span style="color: #000000; font-size: 14px;"><strong class="135brush" data-brushtype="text">2．纱线设计</strong></span></p></section></section></section></section></section><section class="_135editor" data-tools="135编辑器" data-id="127782"><section style="margin: 10px auto;"><section class="box-edit" style="margin: 0 0 25px;"><section style="margin:0 0 10px;display: flex;justify-content: flex-start;"><section style="display: flex;align-items: flex-end;"><section><section style="font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 1.5px; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); background-color: rgb(115, 184, 255); width: 35px; height: 35px; display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center;"><p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px; line-height: 2em;"><strong>0</strong><strong class="autonum" data-original-title="" title="">1</strong></p></section></section><section style="background-color: rgb(244, 244, 244); padding: 0px 4px;"><section style="display: flex;justify-content: space-between;"><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section></section><section style="font-size: 16px; color: rgb(61, 61, 61); text-align: center; padding: 5px 10px;"><p style="line-height:2em"><span style="color: #000000; font-size: 14px;"><strong class="135brush" data-brushtype="text">纱线线密度的确定</strong></span></p></section></section></section></section><section data-autoskip="1" class="135brush" style="text-align: justify; line-height: 1.75em; letter-spacing: 1.5px; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); background-color: transparent;"><p style="line-height:2em"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">纱线线密度对成品外观手感、后整理以及机械性能均有影响。平纹组织的女士呢，采用较低线密度的纱，外观呢面平整、细洁、纹路清晰，质量适宜。若采用高线密度的纱，即使纱的条干均匀、色泽好，呢面也平整，但因纱线粗，交织点大，不能产生平细的风格，有粗糙厚重之感。而猎装呢就应选用较粗的纱，同时经纬均为合股线。此外，纱线线密度还应与织物组织配合，综合考虑后选用。如设计厚织物，可以采用两种方式：一种是越厚越用高线密度纱，运用不同组织织制单层织物；另一种是选用低线密度纱织制多层组织织物。总之，选择纱线线密度时，应综合考虑产品的风格特征、品质要求、原料性能、混合比例及工艺要求等因素。</span></p></section></section></section></section><section class="_135editor" data-tools="135编辑器" data-id="127782" draggable="true"><section style="margin: 10px auto;"><section class="box-edit" style="margin: 0 0 25px;"><section style="margin:0 0 10px;display: flex;justify-content: flex-start;"><section style="display: flex;align-items: flex-end;"><section><section style="font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 1.5px; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); background-color: rgb(115, 184, 255); width: 35px; height: 35px; display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center;"><p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px; line-height: 2em;"><strong>0</strong><strong class="autonum" data-original-title="" title="" data-num="2">2</strong></p></section></section><section style="background-color: rgb(244, 244, 244); padding: 0px 4px;"><section style="display: flex;justify-content: space-between;"><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section></section><section style="font-size: 16px; color: rgb(61, 61, 61); text-align: center; padding: 5px 10px;"><p style="line-height:2em"><span style="color: #000000; font-size: 14px;"><strong class="135brush" data-brushtype="text">纱线捻度与捻系数</strong></span></p></section></section></section></section><section data-autoskip="1" class="135brush" style="text-align: justify; line-height: 1.75em; letter-spacing: 1.5px; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); background-color: transparent;"><p style="line-height:2em"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">捻系数的大小对毛纱强力与直径有直接关系，对成品呢绒的强力、手感、厚度及呢面外观也有影响。捻系数选择的原则为：原料品质好时，可以适当降低捻系数；对于混纺纱，化纤比例越高，捻系数应越小，但再生毛／粘纤混纺时，为提高纱线强力，捻系数要大些；若经纱要求强力高，捻系数应较高，纬纱的捻系数可较低；染色纱的捻系数一般应比原色纱的捻系数高5％；不缩绒、不起毛的织物，经纬可以选择相同的捻系数；缩绒织物的纬纱捻系数可较低，重缩绒织物捻系数一般应小于轻缩绒织物。</span></p></section></section><section class="box-edit" style="margin: 0 0 25px;"><section style="margin:0 0 10px;display: flex;justify-content: flex-start;"><section style="display: flex;align-items: flex-end;"><section><section style="font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 1.5px; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); background-color: rgb(115, 184, 255); width: 35px; height: 35px; display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center;"><p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px; line-height: 2em;"><strong>0</strong><strong class="autonum" data-original-title="" title="" data-num="3">3</strong></p></section></section><section style="background-color: rgb(244, 244, 244); padding: 0px 4px;"><section style="display: flex;justify-content: space-between;"><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section></section><section style="font-size: 16px; color: rgb(61, 61, 61); text-align: center; padding: 5px 10px;"><p style="line-height:2em"><span style="color: #000000; font-size: 14px;"><strong class="135brush" data-brushtype="text">纱线捻向</strong></span></p></section></section></section></section><section data-autoskip="1" class="135brush" style="text-align: justify; line-height: 1.75em; letter-spacing: 1.5px; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); background-color: transparent;"><p style="line-height:2em"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">不同捻向的经纬纱与不同组织配合，可以生产出不同风格和特点的织物，对织物的手感、光泽及其纹路的清晰等都有很大的影响。</span></p></section></section><section class="box-edit" style="margin: 0 0 25px;"><section style="margin:0 0 10px;display: flex;justify-content: flex-start;"><section style="display: flex;align-items: flex-end;"><section><section style="font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 1.5px; color: rgb(255, 255, 255); background-color: rgb(115, 184, 255); width: 35px; height: 35px; display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center;"><p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px; line-height: 2em;"><strong>0</strong><strong class="autonum" data-original-title="" title="" data-num="4">4</strong></p></section></section><section style="background-color: rgb(244, 244, 244); padding: 0px 4px;"><section style="display: flex;justify-content: space-between;"><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section><section style="width: 7px; height: 0px; overflow: hidden;"></section></section><section style="font-size: 16px; color: rgb(61, 61, 61); text-align: center; padding: 5px 10px;"><p style="line-height:2em"><span style="color: #000000; font-size: 14px;"><strong class="135brush" data-brushtype="text">花式纱线的应用</strong></span></p></section></section></section></section><section data-autoskip="1" class="135brush" style="text-align: justify; line-height: 1.75em; letter-spacing: 1.5px; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); background-color: transparent;"><p style="line-height:2em"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">花呢类产品常采用部分花式线做点缀，织物的经纬纱密度较低，结构较疏松，同时要求织物色彩鲜明，手感柔软，不松烂，成衣追求时装化、时代感。利用花式线设计粗纺花呢产品可以达到原料多样、织物轻薄、组织结构简化、产品的立体风格突出、色彩和花型丰富的目的。</span></p></section></section></section></section><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph"><p><br></p></section></section>