<section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　织物设计的任务在于根据市场与用户的要求设计出具有一定风格和性能的织物来。产品的用途与要求不同，设计的具体内容与方法也有所不同。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　一、织物设计的基本步骤</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（一）产品构思和品种确定</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　织物的风格是由织物的用途与使用对象确定的。设计产品时，首先应明确其用途、销售地区和使用对象，明确对产品的具体要求，根据产品的风格特征，构思产品的类型，再进行各项具体内容的设计。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（二）纤维原料的选择和纱线设计</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　织物性质首先取决于纤维原料，每一种纤维原料都具有独特的性能，因此，纤维原料选择是织物设计的一项重要内容。选择纤维原料，不仅要选择原料品种类别，还要考虑原料的品质特征，如长度、细度、长度偏差率和细度不匀率等指标。若为混纺产品，还需确定不同原料的搭配、混纺比例等。此外，选用原料时，还要考虑生产成本和经济效益。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　纱线的类型有很多种，如精梳纱线和粗梳纱线，单纱和股线，变形纱和花式线等。不同的纱线结构，会产生丰富多样的产品。在纱线设计中，不仅要设计纱线的结构，还要按织物风格要求设计纱线的线密度、捻度及捻向。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（三）织物结构设计</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　织物结构设计包括经纬向密度配合和组织设计。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　经纬向密度的配合变化关系到织物的轻重、厚薄与结构相，同样也会引起织物外观风格和性能的较大变化，形成不同的产品，如华达呢、哔叽和卡其等。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　组织是影响织物品种的重要因素，品种的变化多是由组织引起。如某些小提花织物品种的变化主要是由地部组织的变化得到的。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（四）花纹图案设计</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　“远看颜色近看花”，织物的花纹与色彩是影响外观风格的主要因素，不同组织可形成不同的花型外观。织物的色彩应根据品种类型、使用对象及流行趋势来设计，设计时常与经、纬纱线</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　的色纱排列循环和组织结构一起进行。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（五）纺织染整工艺设计</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　织物所用的原料不同，产品的类别不同，则加工的工艺和设备不同。产品的生产工艺，尤其是织物的后加工，对织物的外观影响较大，同样的坯布经过不同的整理会得到不同的外观，而这些外观都需要由相应的机械后加工或化学染整后处理方法获得。像割绒、拉绒、剪花、热压、烧毛、磨毛等都是可使织物获得一定外观特征的机械后加工。而漂练、印染、丝光、烂花、涂层、树脂整理及防缩、防皱、防静电、防水、防污、防燃等都是常用的化学染整后处理方法，设计中应需根据产品特点进行具体工艺的制定。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（六）织物规格设计与计算</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　根据织物的用途、要求及生产工艺，确定织物的主要工艺规格，如幅宽与匹长。根据纱线线密度、密度与组织，计算总经纱根数、筘号、筘幅、用纱量和织物的重量。若为色织物，还须进行劈花和排花，以保证生产的正常进行。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　（七）产品试织</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><span style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;">　　为保证设计质量，一个产品从设计到正式投产需要经过几次样品试织，首先是小样试织，观察设计效果，弥补设计不足；其次是进行包袱样试织，供定货用。另外，在正式投产之前，还需进行先锋试样，积累生产经验，为正式投产奠定基础。</span></p><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; line-height: 1.75em; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section><section class="_135editor" data-role="paragraph" id="autoparagraph" style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px none; z-index: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><p style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin-bottom: 0px; clear: both; min-height: 1em; cursor: text; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"><br style="max-inline-size: 100%; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-family: 微软雅黑, &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0); overflow-wrap: break-word !important; outline: none 0px !important;"></p></section>