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牛仔服装水洗工艺介绍

2022-12-28 11:51:57

<section data-role="outer" class="article135" label="edit by 135editor"><p data-first-child="" data-pid="OkDOAd2g" style="margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">在服装的后整理工艺中，水洗工艺处理因为可以得到一些特殊的效果，增加服装的设计感舒适性和美观性，现在被广泛应用到很多服装中。<p data-pid="BEBiGXCL" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">服装水洗工艺是指将半成品服装通过一些手工处理和机械洗涤的方式，利用一些洗涤溶剂使服装达到尺寸的稳定和柔软的触感以及特殊的色彩和肌理效果。由于洗涤后排出的水中会残留服装的染色剂和洗涤过程中加入的洗涤剂，水洗厂要对排出的污水进行处理，否则会对环境造成污染。<p data-pid="7ZHZIRoG" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">一般来说水洗工艺最常用于牛仔服装中，尤其是牛仔裤的水洗效果，受到消费者青睐。除牛仔面料外，其他纯棉、棉混纺、麻、真丝等面料的服装也可以进行水洗处理。<p data-pid="BpT_9oGp" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">牛仔裤的水洗一般要经过以下几个主要步骤：<p data-pid="yUZg--_s" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">一、手工处理<p data-pid="MtLFxtGb" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">牛仔裤上的猫须效果、褶皱效果、破洞效果，都是前期通过手工借助针缝、砂纸、小砂轮打磨制作出来的。<p data-pid="Byq8kE10" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">二、喷涂处理<p data-pid="ijc6bOC3" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">为了达到服装局部漂白的效果，常结合手工及水洗工艺做喷涂处理。喷涂大多设计在牛仔裤的前后幅、腰部以及口袋等处。<p data-pid="h5YLAUFq" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">为了增强纱线的断裂强度，牛仔布纺织过程中会在经纱上上浆，浆料会影响化学反应效率，因此喷涂前要做退浆处理。然后在指定位置喷涂相应浓度的试剂，在水洗过程中发生反应，从而使喷涂部位褪色，以达到漂白效果。<p data-pid="lQIB5QrO" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">三、水洗处理<p data-pid="GGhVj_ju" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">水洗前需要先退浆，使面料去除浆料，变得柔软。这个过程中需要使用渗透剂和柔软剂。针对不同的面料类型，要对洗涤剂的量和配比进行实验调整。<p data-pid="w8r3Zml8" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">水洗类型主要有以下几种：<p data-pid="Ifm4Xd8L" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">1、普洗<p data-pid="z5Wp6EEn" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">指用工业洗衣机进行普通洗涤，主要目的是清洁和柔软。洗涤时加入洗衣粉等助剂，在50-80℃温度下，洗涤一定时间后，过清水加柔软剂，即可使织物柔软、舒适、自然、干净。<p data-pid="n7hFVaC2" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">2、漂洗<p data-pid="4G3GgegB" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">即在普通洗涤过水后，升温至60℃，根据漂白颜色的深浅，加适量的漂水漂洗一定时间。<p data-pid="A053Ugjc" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">需注意的是，操作时加漂白剂的方向应与转缸的转向一致，避免漂白剂因不能及时遇水稀释，而直接落在衣物上，出现局部漂白。<p data-pid="AHB-BF2O" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">3、石洗<p data-pid="SKsEhkC2" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">石洗一般在退浆后进行。洗涤时在水洗机中加入一定量的浮石，机内的水位以衣物完全浸透即可，以使浮石能很好地与衣物接触。在石洗前可进行普洗或漂洗，也可在石洗后进行漂洗。<p data-pid="O6LBnk67" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">根据客户的不同要求，采用浮石、人造石和胶球等进行洗涤，通过石头规格的选择、磨洗时间以及温度的调整，达到不同的水洗效果。洗后，布面呈现自然的陈旧感，衣物局部有轻微至重度破损。<p data-pid="z0ICIxQZ" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">4、砂洗<p data-pid="ZH-gM3ZL" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">砂洗流行于20世纪80年代，采用工业水洗机，组合使用一些碱剂和氧化性助剂，目的是使衣物洗后有一定褪色效果及陈旧感。<p data-pid="0VpajoT0" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">5、酵素洗<p data-pid="i29-VgAy" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">酵素洗，又叫纤维素酶洗。它可以在一定pH值和温度下降解纤维，使布面较温和地褪色、去毛，并得到持久的柔软效果。与石洗相比，酵素洗可使织物获得减量效果和永久性柔软手感；还可提高织物悬垂性和光泽；洗出的花纹细腻不发灰。<p data-pid="UOuBrPLB" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">若牛仔裤退浆后，先用浮石水洗，再用酵素水洗，便会出现较细腻的花纹；若先用酵素水洗，再用浮石水洗，便会出现较粗的花纹。<p data-pid="R8x_7_1U" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">6、雪花洗<p data-pid="3u90ONfC" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">又叫炒雪花，类似干磨，以服装磨白处犹如大片雪花布满衣服而得名，也有用“炒机”进行。<p data-pid="zy1gWBLO" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">7、树脂压皱<p data-pid="okEPJN9b" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">原理同免熨烫整理，目的是形成持久的特定褶皱，配合磨洗马骝、喷砂和手擦等工艺，以表现其特有风格。<p data-pid="fGW0RrOy" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">其要求主要有：立体保形持久，强力保持度佳，无马骝黄斑，甲醛残留达国家标准要求，底色极少，合理选择药剂和配制药液，以及设定工艺条件，以防泛蓝。<p data-pid="tDGgJ4to" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">8、破坏洗<p data-pid="hHWYrtMg" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">成衣经过浮石打磨及助剂处理后，在某些部位（骨位、领角等）产生一定程度的破损，洗后衣物会有较为明显的残旧效果。<p data-pid="H-5vbXhj" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 1.4em; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">除此以外还有扎染、镭射雕刻、手绘等手法在水洗环节采用，以达到不同的效果。<p data-pid="Er69WxUj" style="margin-top: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 0px; color: rgb(18, 18, 18); font-size: medium; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Microsoft YaHei", "Source Han Sans SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "WenQuanYi Micro Hei", sans-serif;">水洗工艺复杂，参数众多，需要在大货生产前进行小样水洗，以确定最佳的水洗工艺。水洗效果能够给服装带来更多的附加价值，也需要投入大量的人力和设备，在制定生产计划时必须要留出充足的水洗时间。</section>

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